blowit

Thanks D. I will say that most of our innovations come from customer feedback and experiences. Lost track of how many bikes we got in where the shift claw jumped off the shift star and jammed up. We took the opportunity to improve several more things while we were there... B

Yes the part is hardened. We tried to price this part very competitively considering how much machining goes into them and the materials used. We still have a decent margin for dealers as well. Brandon

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...em=170368928032 Just thought I would pass along one of our new products if you guys had any questions. We built an all new billet design shift star due to several issues we have seen over the years. 1. Extended and enlarged drive pins so shift claw can never jump off the shift star again! 2. Improved profile geometry with our compound radius design to better shifting action over a modified stock star. 3. Redesigned neutral stop so trans will not hang up between 1st and 2nd under load. Please note that this is not a cut OEM star. These are cut from a solid chunk of steel. Let me know if you guys have questions or concerns. Happy to answer questions. Thanks Brandon

I want to guess 87-89 TRX250R cylinders but I do not see an exhaust bridge and the intake is not quite the same. Possibly some older CR cylinders? Need more views... :biggrin: B

You got it. We noted and have posted many times, the typo that Clymer did in their manuals. Primary is from blade connector to blade connector and secondary is from plug wire to plug wire. Remember to remove the plug caps and test separately. They are known for failures . Remember also to unclip the wires completely from the coil and test "ONLY" the coil when you get a bad reading. Wires shit out commonly, the coil itself rarely fails. Brandon

They will work great. Ran plenty of the TMs on the shees without issues. I think the Keihin dial in a bit easier but that is about it. B

We don't really work on watercraft anymore but one slipped through the cracks I guess. This is a 2001 XL1200 PV motor (same as GP1200). The carb pumps have gone to shit. The OE pump membranes are ridiculous in price. Just curious if anyone has another source for these? have never really trusted aftermarket goods for this stuff but for 3-5 bills for friggin small parts, I will have to look elsewhere. B Edit, called SBT and just going to have to try their kits. Mods, please feel free to delete post. Thanks!

How do you now you "made up for the porting" Was there any math done? Do you know your durations? Those are things that must be considered. I would say your elevation in combination with the gauge is causing an issue. B

Probably a combination of things. A: Your comp gauge is probably lying to you. B: as you port an engine, or should I say increase the duration, you will lose cranking compression. Depending on what Cascade did, you may need less head displacement. Start with a better tester. What elevation are you? B

I thought all the big diesels were still running iron liners for speed of repairs???? By the way, how would we call a "billet" piston a "forged" piston? We looked a while back at making some low production pistons on the lathe from some forged slugged solids but decided that they would probably deform all over the place from the forging. Also would probably have a hell of time oval turning them without a camturn lathe. I would be VERY curious to see how cryo work affects forged pistons as well. We have a freezer here that we want to use for cryo work at some point, just no time for it right now..... B

Thermal conductivity properties and cost are the primary reasons for OEMs using Nikasil. It is really a PITA for the back yard rebuild though. Heat soak is really a fact of life in an engine cylinder. Thermal conduction is much better in Al, than Iron and allows for lower operating temps. There are many advantages of Al blocks but rebuilding can be a bitch. I am not sure why sled OEMs are running wider piston clearances. A plated bore cylinder typically expands faster with the piston and has natural lubricity properties thus allows tighter tolerancing. That being said, forged pistons create big problem there. The lower silica content in forged pistons and poorly aligned molecules from forging makes then grow in strange ways. B

I am already a bit skeptical because that exhaust port finish looks like dog meat! Best to get some good pics and measurements and lets start there. B

We have faced these same problems many times in the shop over the years. Guys want to go faster so porting is the first thing on their mind. It is important to either elect components that will work well with the porting or install new components on the existing setup to improve the performance. Just stepping out of the 34PJs and Dynoport pipe cann offer a large improvement in the topend. Like I said, doing anything to the port of a Cub most certainly means stepping into drag only territory because the timings of the Cub are already at the "hot dune port" area. Porting the Cub will most certainly sacrifice mid power to put on the top. If you want your cake and eat it too, get into power valves. To be honest, I just cannot understand why people would buy a cylinder without them unless to strictly drag race. Here is my recommendation, clean up ALL the ports, install CPI or Shearer pipes, move to a 35mm PWK carb, work A LOT with the head to ensure you are getting proper combustion, ride it..... I really do not think this build is warranting porting. Like I said, any more timing on the exhaust is asking for disappointment from the owner unless racing. B

Numbers I have would bring you up 4-4.5* total duration and I am not sure I would do that with the dynoport pipe. Much more than stock durations really leans towards drag pipe tuned lengths. B

What kind of timing changes are you getting from the 1mm raise on the exhaust? You are correct regarding radii on leading edges in an air stream. However, you are not "cutting air" at all. All the air in the engine is subsonic until it is sent out the exhaust. The "wake" you refer too is an eddy current from in increase in turbulence. Why people still insist on knife edging things, I will never know but after designing aircraft wings, I think I got the gist of how air works. Again, what are you trying to do with the engine? Raising the exhaust will drop power off the bottom. There are many things you can do before going towards timing changes. B

Cleaning up the ports certainly will not hurt anything but you need to be careful not to damage your bore coating when working the windows. The intake really works pretty good out of the box after some clean up. The transfers and exhaust need more help. Dyno numbers area all over the map on the 421 due to setup differences. I have seen as low as 70HP out of them and as high as 110HP. The key is to determine what you want from the bike first. If all you want is to go fast in a straight line, that will take a bit more. B

You are going to need some form of documentation whether it be title, MSO, BOS, etc. Problem is you did not get any of that. Remember in the future to always sign something over of value whether it be a bike, gun, car, etc. Life is just easier with documents and judges love them!!! B

Ouch! That might be taking it a bit far there but I think the jig is up! B

Ethanol will certainly not damage your engine if run correctly. The higher the Ethanol content, the bigger your jetting needs to be though so find a blend, tune for it, and stay with it. Yes, the lean condition vary well could be causing your issues. B

Listen, a "promise" to inflict bodily harm IS a threat. Please consult any legal representative for that. I will nearly guarantee you, you have zero to worry about and the guy will not even take it to court. Your best option right now is to file for a restraining order against him like yesterday because he will likely no go to court but probably will show up at your house to trash your place. The courts will find that the trade was made in good faith and he would need a really good reason to find otherwise. A judge is simply not going to make you trade back. You both did the deal, you have witnesses, it is done, bet on it! BUT, you need to cover your ass and get that restraining order. It is not very hard to do and when the cops show up at his house, he will know the games ARE going to stop. B

All newer (5yrs old and newer) pistons are pro-lite now. If you are finding "standard" pistons, they must be old stock. B

I would tend to agree. Not sure how many bikes I have looked at over the years where people describe them as "cherry and ready to ride" when infact, they know first hand that they need a bunch of work. Then people drive countless miles to go look and "oh shit", all is revealed. That shit was always fun working at the dealership a decade ago. People would bring their sport bikes in and wanna trade fast and when we shoot them a low offer, they take it. Then we just ask to go take them for a quick spin to make sure all is good and, oh, what, 2nd and 3rd are out??? They worked fine coming in...... My advice is to correct your ad to include the little things that are wrong with it so people are not knocked down with BS when they show up. B

For the scope of this discussion, I think it is safe to consider them the same. The OP is asking if he can "just dump it in the tank and make more power" and obviously alkys take more than that to run properly. My understanding of Methyl Hydrate is that it was fabbed up by a chemical company for parts cleaner since they technically can not call it Methanol if it only has say 30% in it. Much like paint thinner is usually diluted mineral spirit, exylene, acetone, etc. Guess I would like to get some clarity myself. B

We prefer the universal NGK caps for watercraft. Much higher quality and will not fail like the stockers. B

It might be cheaper/easier, to check with a builder for tuning. I know if you were closer, Jeff would get you going in minutes. Sometimes it just takes an experienced ear to take a listen. B