blowit

LOL B

I am working on revising some pics for our website. I usually shoot for just blanking the background so it blends nice with whatever background we have on the site. Problem is most of our parts are shiny and if you were to try and just remove or isolate a color, that color is reflected on the part so it trims the part. We have had to trim the parts very carefully and it takes a TON of time. There has to be a better way either through different picture taking, methods, or a different program. Can someone help? I am most familiar with photoshop but have a couple others like illustrator that might he helpful. Please feel free to PM your email so I can send a pic if anyone can help. Thanks

Single point cutting is widely used for automatics and manuals alike. You really would not be thread forming something like this. That is reserved usually for non-ferrous materials. Given the pitch and size of this thread, I think single point cutting will likely be the only option and creates a better controlled thread than a tap/die. B

Your about the make your problems worse by switching to a 9 heat range. Fouling is not normal.

A LH 27x1.00 ?? dunno about that but I think he will need some material back before trying to tap that thing..

3 jaw will deflect the flywheel since it is made of a very ductile material and usually crack the internal magnets, thus the flywheel not only looses balance, it will not create a mag field correctly. I have known a few to reuse after a 3 jaw but doubt I would do it, even on my own. If harmonics are not suppressed correctly, they translate into the crank bearings and do more damage. B

Again, a broke puller and stripped flywheel make good companions for welding. You can do this several times if you are careful and actually reuse the flywheel. You dad must have some free time to mess with it. Let us know how it works out.

Agreed, the single point cut will produce a better thread on that fine pitch and we rarely use a "die" for OD threads in a lathe. Just no reason for it. I am still a little baffled why one would go through the hassle of fixing or making a puller when they cost 13 bucks!! I am a CNC shop owner and know the tooling and programming time alone would cost a few hundred just for the threading. Time is always worth something. Now repairing the threads in the flywheel, if it is stripped, I would probably tack weld the puller on, get it off, and replace it. Still cheaper than trying to repair the threads. Reason is once the threads are gone, you must bore and thread to a new size which will not be the puller size. B

Seems to be a 27x1.00 Rare bird...

Just get in the industrial books you have and buy what you need. That is NOT a special washer. I would even go so far as to say if you run red loctite, you can run without that washer. B

X2 http://www.streetrodstuff.com/Articles/Engine/Detonation/ Predetonation???? Is this where TNT pops before the button is pushed??? lol

Gunna have to split the cases to see if the piston frags are holding up the crank or if the crank is toast. Either way, it probably needs cleaned out. As and engine builder, I am giving you sound advice. Buy a Clymer manual and follow it on crank inspection and go from there. If the rods are not free, there is a big problem. I have been able to save a few that felt seized but usually frags get in the bearings. Even if it "feels" free, once bearings have been damaged, their life cycle shortens quickly. B

LOL. where are all my fun faces to post??? B

Porting was done in the backyard. I agree that a little above stock performance could be expected. It would be a huge improvement to send them to a builder for proper porting. I can see about 20hp hiding in there.....

That figures.... I already left the shop and did not bring any parts with me. I will have to catch you on the ride back. I deleted all my PMs so hopefully you can send me a PM now (just maybe...)

I shot you an email ( I think) earlier. I hope it worked. I cannot tell much with the PM system we have. B

Not going to make the LS trip. Been down sick for a couple weeks. Gotta get caught up. Touch base with me Fri and I will see if I can catch up with you Sun. Probably be over in the R&D shop at some point. THanks Brandon

Jeff, did you receive some parts? I think there were some sent out to you. B

We finally have these available for purchase. Thanks to the guys here that help with our testing. These parts are proved out and ready for shipment. I will offer 10% off to HQrs for the hell of it since our dealers are not stocking this item just yet. Price for the gear is $33.99. If you are interested, please just shoot me a PM or email with your contact info and I will follow up with you. My apology if this violates any site policies and feel free to delete. Thanks. Brandon Mull Engineering

Those pipes surely are not DG or any other production pipe. They are hand made. Not sure by looking just what they are tuned for but appear to be inframe drags and possibly a set of R&D pipes. I too would recommend testing against a known brand to compare with. I would expect to have to jet them in. Someone took some time with them so they may be worth working with. CT, LRD, Duncan, and FTZ all specialize in custom designs that they will either do in house or send to power pros. Who really knows at this point. Give them a run... B

That is FAR from normal.... Knowing too much about bearings, I sure would not be welding on a bearing race... I think you may want to dry fit your cases together and have the bores mic'd to see what the total interference is. The races really should not move. There are, however, some products by loctite designed to b put on bearing races for such a thing. I think careful inspection of the bearings and cases should be first. Brandon

I missed the 96. Best of luck. Sounds like your on the right track. Brandon

Just curious if anyone here orders from large mail order chains like Dennis Kirk? Which ones are you working with and how would you rate their services and pricing?

Parking brake switch..... Adjust the parking break on the clutch perch and that should make your problem go away. You can also delete that switch by unplugging it in the harness. Brandon

NO