blowit

Certainly unhook the TORS system for diagnostics and check all grounds. The engine must ground well to the chassis as well as the ignition coil grounding to the frame up under the fuel tank. If neither of these is causing your problem, it is likely a damaged wire in the harness. It might be easier in this instance to remove the harness from the bike and inspect carefully on the bench. Also closely inspect the termination points. Mull Engineering

Thanks for the kind words Washburn. However, I don't think I will be winning any engineering awards this year.... Not sure if I will ever be that smart... We do try to push the envelop a bit in everything we do. It can be tedious but we enjoy the sport and enjoy being a part of it's advancement... Mull Engineering

If you have the means to press the crank properly, I would recommend bring it back down to OE min tolerance to get the best life out of it. The washers are typically what wear down over time so just pushing things back a little tighter will help you. Keep in mind that getting things too tight will deprive the bearings of lubrication. Also remember if you take the crank apart, you will need to rework the runout and phasing of the crank. IMO, not worth it on a used crank. Push it together, weld it, run it till it is done which will probably be years. Good idea to replace the outer bearings though. Easy swap.. Mull Engineering

As stated above, your alignment has changed and will need to be calibrated. Generally the OEM does not set up a bike to close anyway because they are made for off road use. An alignment shop is your best bet but for small adjustments at home, you will want to really look at the toe. Toe "in" or pigeon towing will cause a very unstable steering situation. Toe it out a hair and that should help. Also check your camber. You will want a very neutral camber geometry for pavement riding which is totally different than off road setups. Mull Engineering

The washer from the OEM is a conular spring washer or also called a Belleville washer to help retain the nut. Many guys will put a type of thread locker on the threads and use a standard flat washer in a pinch and we have never had any problems with this method. Mull Engineering

It would be a good ideal to inspect the basket well for wear. Specifically grooving of the drive ears on the outside. Usually when the cushions get worn, it causes accelerated wear on the basket. That will cause clutch sticking and poor shifting. If you are not familiar with these issues, simply search the site. There is a ton of info around on the subject.

Thanks Tyler. We have been hanging around for years so figured it was time to hang our sign.

Do I win anything??? It would be a good idea to install an inline fuel filter to protect against carb problems in the future.

Thanks again for your order and props. Enjoy!! Brandon

Sounds more to me like it just plugged up a carb or fouled a plug and is not hitting on the left. Check carb balance, pilot jet, and spark plug.. Brandon

I would love to know what is up with this setup... I thought this thing was pretty much together 3 weeks ago.. I wanna see that pointy dyno sheet.. B

With any scenario where the carbs dumb from the overflows, that is a needle/seat issue. The Banshee has a very poor fuel filter that allow contaminates through. Install an inline filter as well as clean the carbs and start there. Brandon Mull Engineering

Usually the squish action in a 2 stroke gives enough gas pressure to where gas ports will not gain you much. I have tried it and just did not see the results.. Your power stroke is so short, it just does not make sense. Brandon Mull Engineering

Without riding your bike it is tough to call but it really sounds like you might be fighting a jetting problem as well. Hard to say if it is lean or rich but keep in mind that the main jet will have very little to do with your launch. Pilot, needle taper, needle position, slide cutway, will change that more. Sure sounds like you might be lean on the bottom. Typically when they start to get to fat, they still come out of the hole but blubber a bit. What I might do in your shoes is lock the PVs closed for now and concentrate on that bottom end. This will also help you work with jetting vs PV tuning. Yes, that setup should pull like a 4 stroke and be serious fun to ride... B

6.5:1 is the corrected compression ratio which is what Japan uses for engine calculations. It is a more relative number than swept or uncorrected. That is why the number looks low.. Brandon Mull Engineering

You can test the stator output for AC amplitude. You will need an oscilloscope. Let me know if you have one and I will walk you through it. Brandon Mull Engineering

HP = torque * rpm/5252

sent you an email earlier. hopefully you got and helps you out. let me know if you need more help.. Mull Eengineering

We have also had a few people back cut the neutral a bit more which is an option. We designed those stars for racing, specifically for asphalt guys with tall gearing and 1st gear starts. Hitting neutral is a certain loss in that situation. If you require very positive neutral shifts, let me know and I can help you work through a quick mod on it. I was going to do a tech article on that since we have had a few questions on that. Brandon

It is important that the shift claw be adjusted not to touch the pins when in neutral. That will certainly cause this. With the stock star, there is a little more forgiveness on that. Feel free to email if you have any other problems. Brandon

Are you sure you lined up the pressure plate with the arrow on the inner hub? There is only one way that critter can go.. Other ways will not go on all the way and the tell tail sign is slack in the push rod. Brandon Mull Engineering

You can remove the inspection plate on the side of the TORS boxes to check the internal cabling. They commonly fray when they fail. The TORS system really does not have as many issues as they are blamed for but it could have been a better design.. B

The large screw on the back of the TORS are the idle screws so they will not change your sync. It really sounds like either the cable needs help or replaced, or the cables on the tops of the TORS have come out of the adjusters or something. Just try to push the cables down into the TORS. You will see the adjusters right at the end of the cables. They simply set the slack of the cable for each one. It is important that you back the idle screws all the way out when starting wtih your sync. They are probably way off.. Brandon Mull Engineering

Njoy and let us know if you have questions. Brandon

I would recommend using the stock kill circuit as recommended. That is what we do. By grounding the coil, you are getting a back voltage to the CDI that is certainly not good on it. The stock kill circuit or b/w wire is what you can take to ground, NOT the orange. Obviously, many have done it without problems but we prefer to use the OE kill circuit because it is the safest for the bike. It is not actually grounding the coil, it interrupts the input tach pulse to kill the ignition. Just a though. Brandon Mull Engineering