blowit

He mentions that it is 1.30mm which is .051". That is a decent number for most builds. Nothing wrong with that.

The top and bottom ring are the same if you are running Wisecos. No worries. Sounds like you might have a carb balance issue. Also, I think what you might be experiencing is spark snuff or blowing out the flame. Try dropping your plug gap from the OE .028" to .022". That might take care of ya. Oh, if you are still running the TORS system, read up on adjusting or make sure you have about 1/8-1/4" of play in the throttle. The TORS have a very bad wrap but they do work if adjusted properly. What will happen is you chop throttle, it kills the ignition for a millisecond, then when you hit the throttle, it picks up the extra fuel as a backfire. Very minor issue.. Whatever the case, it does not sound serious.. B

I would highly suspect your bearing has issues is the shaft spins freely in the bearing. It may be that you got some debris in the bearing during assembly but should be looked at. If the pump is ran where the shaft is spins in the bearing, it will only last minutes. I hate to toot my own horn but we have identified the issues in the Banshee water pump and built fixes for them. New plastic goods should last a while but if things get hot, it is all over and you will not know it until the motor is a crispy critter. Mull Engineering

Is there something wrong with that number? That is in the ball park and surely would not cause your extreme bog. Depending on setup, it could be tuned a bit but that is not bad. B

Well, you don't have to pin the throttle and land on your but... Haven't you ever had to do this so you could cruse with a beer (I mean Coke) in hand??? B

Do you mean .130" or 1.30mm (.051") ? Remember those units... I think you are on the right track now... B

The method that usually works is rev it up, pop it in gear and it will either pop the clutch loose or once you are rolling, pull the clutch in a few times and that will free things up. Not sure if I have ever tore a bike apart due to sticky plates. Now if this problem persists, you will need to inspect things but try the rev and drop first. B

You need to take a close look at your crank. I would highly recommend testing runout in the bike with an indicator. If that sucker is wobbling, it will cause a huge imbalance of the flywheel and cause this. Sure good to know why that flywheel failed. B

What do I win?? Glad it was nothing serious. B

We have 3 shops so it depends on which we are talking about. B

Thanks for all the help guys. We now have two bottom ends here for testing. Thanks again. Brandon

What gaskets?? Base gaskets make a difference, head gaskets do not. Well, timing wise anyway.

The largest problem with E85 is the variable blending that they do for the seasons. Ti is very difficult to keep the jetting dead on all the time. We have done several E85 motors. Most end up switching back to gasoline. B

Yep, you need to tear down and find your issue. Simply remove the flywheel and inspect the key to verify timing. Popping in the exhaust can be caused by many things so find out why it is hard to kick and you will likely find all your issues there. B

Do you have a schrader valve in the tip of your comp adapter? Does it work correctly. B

Did you kick until the gauge maxed out? How is your gauge doing?? Take a picture of the adaptor tip that goes into the head and post it up. Mull Engineering

I agree with above. A CDI will not fail like you are describing (boost timing). You may want to check to make sure your flywheel did not frag. Whatever it is, it is internal in the engine. Bearing failed, piston tried to seize, etc. Pull it down and start there. B

We are doing some R&D work in the Banshee trans and needing a bottom end in here like yesterday.... Had an engine lined up but seems to be a no go. I need the bottom end for maybe 6-8 weeks but could be flexible. Willing to assemble the engine for you or whatever in return. I really thought I had a mockup trans around here. Guess I would consider buying one too if something is floating around locally. Need bottom case half and complete trans. Really hating myself for getting rid of a bunch of our mockup stuff right now... B

Thermal conduction is pretty important so I would make sure that grease is thermally conductive. Other than that, the epoxy usually serves as a way to protect the wires from handling since a nick in the wire can cause certain failure. B

Only so many hours in a day... I have thought about it more than once, believe me. Maybe something for the future... B

Actually, not running in oil is a severe setback for them because it helps absorb vibration as well as cool the coils. There is not even positive air flow over the stator so they can cook if they are over loaded. B

That is a hard call with only a pic but I would do some good cleaning with brake cleaner and check tolerances. Side to side movement, thrust washer clearance, etc. It looks more to be like old oil that has cooked on from sitting for a length of time but again, that is a tough call over the Inet. If you are not comfortable with it, replace it. You could also run it and keep an eat on it for a while.. B

That discoloration does not appear to be a sign of rod failure from where I am sitting. actually looks like a factory blemish in the finishing process. Localized heating in that type of alloy should have a rainbow look to it. If you can scratch through it with a piece of carbide, that would prove a blemish. Either way, I would not be replacing the crank on that alone. Brandon

What gauge did you use?