cdcoxwell

I'm building one right now from the ground up for my nephew, tired of riding by myself. I personlly prefer to start from frame-up. I don't want to buy something and then take her apart. Cheap banshee's that I've seen around here are still going for $2500 + and most of those are as old as an '87 like mine. Being able to purchase almost 99% of the parts on ebay make things very convienant, I've believe we can build her for around $1500 basically stock. Once we have her ridable, then he can upgrade parts as he can afford it. He has $350 in parts now such as the axle, wiring harness w/cdi and coil, gas tank, front and rear shocks swingarm and a couple of other small items I can't remember. He's about to get the frame off of ebay for around $275 with shipping. And doing it this way once he has all of the frame parts we are going to have'em powdercoated. Time flies, gotta go take my boy to T-BALL. I will check back later to see if you post any questions.

BTW, as you can see on my avatar, Jason Veritek is beating the out of A-Rod. Did anyone see that GRANDSLAM he hit tonight for team USA

From the beginning, Booneman has always helped when I needed. I would like to give a very warm and special thx to BOONE. Well, not too warm Cary

wallrat, when you say better flow are we talking about coolant or crank oil flowing better

Thx people, keep'em coming

Am I the only one that thinks this frame is stolen . It sure is sneaky how the vin# is no longer there. Can you just transfer perfectly ingraved #'s??? I wonder if a grinder had anything to do with it. I may be wrong but what do you guys think??? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2006-YAMAHA...sspagenameZWDVW

How do you move a thread. This topic should have been in banshee repairs and mods.

While I have the bottom cracked open are there any suggestions I should do while I've got her heart open. Other than going ahead and replacing both seals and gaskets.

First, buy a CLYMER for around $25. The best investment you can have. It's quite simple just Remove heat sheild. Remove front hose clamp. Then remove the 3 springs holding the exhaust chamber to the motor. Spring tool is $3.99 and OEM Service manuel for $60 @ Rockymountainatv.com That should do it.

I know how you feel. I'm going through the same thing now. I just posted the same question and then saw your thread. I can put my hand behind the right pipe and rev her up and my hand turns almost completely black. Left side barely spits fuel, so little that the color on a rag appears grey. You keep me posted and I will keep you posted if I find out something. The dealership is really going to charge you an arm and a leg. At first, these banshee's can seem quite intimidating, but with the CLYMER and OEM service manual it's easier than you think.

I see there's another post just like mine. I will check it out. If you think mine is any different, let me know.

I put my hand over the right exhaust checking pressure and hand turned black w/fuel or something when reved up. Left side seems good, very little. Reason behind this, I just put her back together. T5's, V-force 3 and bored .010. I've got fuel, spark and compression. 280 main, clip on #4 and air turned out 1.5 turns just how toomey said to. Thanks guys, can't wait to see what ya'll think.

Thanks guys, close enough for me.

I almost jumped out of my skin

If the male/female ends are the same, it should. But, I dout that they are because that would make life to easy for us. I believe all cdi's will work, you just have to splice the ends and swap the male/female ends. I have an '87 as well. I bought a 2000 dimmer/on-off switch. Cut the end off of the '87 dimmer and cut the end off the 2000 and taped the '87 connector on the 2000 and shee works like a charm. Maybe someone who has spliced a cdi box can tell you 100% for a fact, it can be done. I heard that you could.