nater006

Oh yeah.. the reason I ask... a friend owns/runs a small auto accessory store and has a set of PIAA 540 driving lights he wants to get rid of. He doesn't sell them normally in the store so they got offered to me It shouldn't be hard to fabricate a mount, or pop out the existing lower part of the mount and crank them down with the stock bolts in the stock mounts. They look real nice and they'd be a steal.... and they look to be about the same size as the stockers which would be cool. Just a cheaper alternative at the time being..

Offhand... a silly curious question since I'm at work and not in front of the shee (unfortunately!) .. does anyone know the diameter of the stock lens off the top of their head? Boonman, those Hella 500's look nice. I've always been pleased with their products. Have a set of their "cheaper" Optilux line of lights on my S10 right now -- the 2020 model, combo of fog and driving -- I upgraded the wiring a bit and ditched the "Fog or Driving" switch that came with the kit and installed two separate rocker switches so I could be offensive and run both sets simultaneously if wanted, and they work like a charm. They've been whacked by branches (the farmer thing coming out again..) a bit but still never hesitate to work. Well if anyone knows the stock diameter or doesn't mind spending 5 minutes going to their garage with a tape measure... I'd be your fan for a day If not, I just have to get 'em later after work. Thanks!

Yeah, those look nice... that seems to be my first choice at this point. Problem is that I run a lot of woods and farm land and would worry about them getting smacked up and breaking a lens

Got a 200w stator on the way soon with an adjustable timing plate. Still running the stocker lights with the 30w bulbs. I ride lots of farm land (orchards) and woods, and some dunes, and I like my lighting power! Must be the farmer side of me coming through...hehe... anyway.. Is there a way to modify the stock lights to run good ol regular H3/H4 bulbs, or are there any stock-sized decent replacements I can run? The small lil lazerlites or ricky stator lights look nice but I'm a fan of the normal sized ones at this point instead of the small ones, but not monster huge lights either. So, basically looking to either mod the stock lights to accept better (and more easy to obtain!) bulbs or find a set of aftermarket lights roughly the same size and style. Thoughts?

Dang.. would love to have those.. gotta buy the rest of the stuff too unfortunately (flywheel, stator, CDI) or I'd jump at that for a project...

I dunno why it wouldn't. You have to keep in mind that the stock coil and wires are a single molded unit though so you'd be buying new wires too. Make sure its roughly the same resistance (I believe 10% is the typical variation allowed) as the stocker too. Do a search through the forums.. there were some posts not too long ago about little to no performance gains from an aftermarket coil setup.

You just gotta spend some time lifting weights. Figure out how much a 10lb or 25lb weight feels like and do the math in your head. At least its accurate if you're thinking about how much resistance you'd be needing to move a 25lb weight, and the simple formula of leverage, and its not that bad. That's my torque wrench Relatively decent

Hehe... Just ran into this LAST NIGHT. Getting ready for spring... anyway... lubed the throttle cable a week ago but didn't ride it. It wasn't sticking bad but kept idling higher and higher and I'm like "WTF!" Took it apart and cleaned everything up real well --including the gunk that had dripped down into the carbs -- and it fixed it up perfectly. Didn't even think about that until after I had lubed it. Go figure.. Oh yeah.. didn't know I shouldn't lube that cable till now Clutch cable is usually the breakage culprit on machines with me (especially my 900RR!) so went crazy and lubed everything on it...hehehe.

Alright cool. Guess its gonna need a big big adjustable wrench. Gotta go out to the store for a Dremel anyway so oh well... thanks for the info though.

Alright, cool. Anybody know offhand what size of wrench is needed to tighten up the current one until I can get some anti-fade ones or similar? I see LSR has a different style of one -- like a pinch style basically -- so might give something like that a try, but would at least like to tighten up my current one for the time being. It just has small play in it right now but its enough to irritate me Will definitely try tightening up the axle nuts and give it a shot. The bearings appear to be in good shape -- no wobble there, and no wobble on the rear brake caliper's hub, either. Of course, there were virtually no rear brakes anyway when I got it...

My sprocket hub has a slight bit of play in it. You can hear it clicking if you leave the quad in neutral, grasp the socket, and try to rotate it. Its a 96 and has a straight frame and doesn't appear to have been abused. A friend mentioned that perhaps the axle nuts just needed to be tightened down? Thoughts? Also.. if that is a common problem with these... anyone know what size of wrench I'll need? I got a big crescent wrench but its about 1/8" too small to fit the existing axle nuts -- got it for taking the clutch fan off my S10 pickup. Any play in anything like that drives me insane. My ol Tecate4 used to have a ton of play in the sprocket hub and I rode it for over a year and it didn't let go and strip out. But... I hate movement where there shouldn't be. If it sounds like I just am needing a new one (because I have not a clue about the axle nut thing..hehe sorry) whats the best bet? preferably something long lasting that won't mess up again. Thanks!

If its leaking out when you're riding, you're probably looking at a float level adjustment, and perhaps new needle valves (#8 on that diagram). The one in my old T4 wouldn't seat well at all -- in fact, instead of being a nice smooth tip, it had a groove partway through it (assuming it was just extremely worn!). So, probably a combination of the float level and new valve should fix those right up. Will be doing it on mine here before long if the prices are right.

Yeah those hamsters are rather unnerving. I won't eat there for a while, at least till that commercial has left the air

Sticky needle valve? In all reality I'm new to Banshee carbs but the one on my old Tecate used to leak like mad! It was a worn out needle valve. Float level was set perfectly but the valve would never seat properly and it would just leak leak leak.

Yep, still plenty here (Ann Arbor area). Even a lot more up north. Ionia had a bit, as did Ludington when i journeyed home for the weekend. Wish it'd ALL GO AWAY!

Sounds like a good plan. Offhand, out of curiousity, what is the good fix for these? I don't mind paying for it to be done at all but am just curious. I've seen all the "rebuild" kits with set screws and O-rings or whatever but they undoubtedly don't really last.

Aha! I've seen TCS stickers on peoples shocks before but never knew what it was. So it sounds like its about a $200-250 service to have this done?

Definitely soak it down with PB Blaster or WD40 beforehand -- it makes a world of difference. Good idea with the Dremel cutting... really good idea.

Mine's a rattley POS but undoubtedly I missed the deadline..hehe. Is there a good reliable fix for these that an average joe like myself could do in Pa's shop? I haven't even ripped the kicker off to find out why it rattles or think of potential fixes... have to open mouth first, then open eyes later Just figured I'd ask though... (p.s., I searched through the forums but couldn't find any instructions, designs, or ideas.. but I am blind sometimes too)

My rear shock is pretty crappy. Its a '96 and the shock has never been rebuilt or anything (just purchased the quad). I'm a 210lb 6'0" person and it really sucks. My front shocks are Works and are really nice, but the rear stock one is just uck! It definitely needs a rebuild or something. Anyway... whats the best solution to get a decent rear shock in the rear of this? I don't race or anything but thoroughly enjoy jumping. Not sure if I should invest in a super rebuild kit or a replacement stock shock or a used aftermarket shock or what. Not looking to spend $500+ on it, hopefully just a couple hundred at most. Rebuilt my Tecate-4 shock a bunch of years back and it wasn't a problem. Didn't even need a tool to compress the spring or anything. Didn't change any valving or anything since it wasn't crucial to have an exactly dialed-in shock but it was good to have something underneath for the occasional jump. Suggestions? Part numbers and prices are excellent too if someone has any of those lying around... Thanks!

Yep, I saw 'em taped to the skid when I unpackaged it. 1 of the stock bolts is missing, so off to the hardware store for some suitable replacements. Looks like a quality piece of hardware. Doubtful it will be used to the capacity that you folks seem to use it for but at least its piece of mind that it is some good protection.

Sorry to bring up an old thread but... I read through this thread a bit ago and decided to order the Armadillo (for the swingarm). It arrived in the mail yesterday and I am very pleased with the sturdy construction Of course, time will tell, but it looks to be a really sturdy product. Just wanted to say thanks!

The Razrs worked really well for powersliding down the street in the snow, but gave no traction. Just my worthless $.02

From what I know, the single carbs are great for stock to mild engines. If you have a decent port job though, keep the dual carbs. They make a difference in the top end, also. Thats just what I've been hearing though...

Powdercoat it for sure. I've never had anything powdercoated, though I did the single-stage urethane (after sandblasting) on a CR500R frame which held up well. But the powdercoat on my quad is insane. I tried to sand a lil spot where there was a bad ground, back by the CDI/regulator, and couldn't. Finally took a dremel to it and got it scuffed up after wasting about 10 sanding discs. Hehe. It gets my seal of approval!