nater006

I just poked further and there is a rattling noise coming from the left plug cap. Thats the cylinder that is backfiring also. Plugs are still coming out with a little oil on them though. Ideas?

I'm riding my '96 with the new transmission this weekend. Everything is great but the top end of the rpms. I ran into almost the exact same problem before and it seemed to be jetting. I bumped it down a size and it ran like a champ, plugs were a nice brown color. Same conditions, same riding, same me, nothing changed (except maybe a lil extra 2-cycle oil on the bearings from assembly). It just goes BLAH if you crank it, even after its been warmed up. Even if you gradually work your way up to the high rpms.. it never gets there. Just blahs eventually, like 2/3 to 3/4 throttle. If you hold the throttle for a few seconds during the blah, it sputters a bit and eventually goes POP (backfire type of deal) out of one of the cylinders. Not sure if that is typical to an ignition problem or jetting problem though? Tried new plugs. Dumped jetting down one size. Plugs still turn out nice and brown (its a few degrees warmer out than last time). The only change to the ignition is the addition of a Rickystator 200w stator and adjustable plate, both of which are installed correctly. Pickup coil is at .018 from the flywheel magnets. I'm at a loss... could this just be the extra 2-cycle oil that was used for reassembly that is causing this? I haven't fouled plugs and the diode is brown, but the ring around the outside of the plug is oily. Any ideas? Thanks, as always..

I owned two '90 CR500Rs a few years ago. The second one I went expecting to buy a '91 but the guy had slapped the "new" Honda dirtbike red plastics on it and tried to pass it off. Anyway I got it for a song after pointing it out to him... One had an FMF setup, and the other had a Pro Circuit setup. Just have to say that the Pro Circuit one felt nicer throughout and I liked it a bit more. It was a nicer pipe, IMHO... the bikes were identical otherwise.

Yup. Float level and/or needle valves. Both my needle valves have slight notches in them and the seats are probably worn also, so they leak from time to time.

Just supposed to provide more power throughout. I upped mine to +4 (rs adjustable timing plate) but haven't gotten to ride it yet. Supposedly it hits the powerband a bit harder though.

Take a *good* friend with you. All of the celebrations I've gone to, people do nothing but buy crappy drinks (kind of an oxymoron there) that the birthday person doesn't like, for that reason. Take a friend who'll get ya something good other than that... drink *good* stuff (no Popov, Five O'Clock) and have a good time!

If that locknut gets loosened, that stud could come loose pretty easy. In my case, the lock nut wasn't there (dumb mistake) and the stud loosened itself in just a few clutch pulls. I put it on, re-adjusted, and cranked it down, and now its nice and tight and worked fine when riding tonight.

just shows what a lamer he is. getting all cheesed off about signatures and too sissy to show who he really is... thats the best part. a gutless script kiddie!

Way to ignore the obvious, moron. Good for your script. If you were launching your futile attack on my system, you wouldn't have to question me, because your script would work for oh.. 2 minutes. FYI, I never claimed to be a hacker. Your words, not mine. Correct term is cracker, FYI, kiddie. I'm just a *NIX person who knows what he's doing, and it doesn't take much to protect against 14-year-old script kiddies like yourself, no matter what environment you're in. Peace out, kiddie! Hell, dunno why I even tried. Just another stupid script kiddie who thinks he's the world for writing a batch file... gotta hate those kind of people.

You might have some leaky carbs or another leak in the fuel system. Shouldn't go through that much gas though!

.gif is evil (well not you.. but actually EVIL!). .png is nice

The absolute best part is how you think you know a lot cause you wrote a lil script, script-kiddie, but you don't even realize how easy it is to deny access to your hostname, IP, or entire subnet... or even contact your ISP and tell them how you're abusing your lease on their connection and watch 'em ban ya, That'd be a party. Or with about 10 seconds of adding 1 more rule iptables could just drop your packets on the spot, no matter which protocol or ports you try. But duh you know how to write a batch file!... well aren't you special! Lee.. I've got a gigabit connection to the outside world from work. If ya see any fun hostnames or IPs appearing... lemme know Got a dual-processor beater box dual-booting Debian and FreeBSD that could use a little workout. Plus it gets so boring sometimes..

Yup, 1-2 (now). If not, its usually cause the run switch or *secret* switch is off.

When you've got the clutch side off, push the clutch arm on top of the case (left side) till you feel the resistance, and then screw the adjustment bolt in by hand until it stops (e.g., meets that resistance). Then, tighten down the locknut on the outside of the pressure plate that goes on the adjustment screw. Make sure its tight. If you do that, it won't un-adjust itself. stupid me forgot to put that nut back on when I assembled mine 2 days ago which is why I'm sharing my crappy experience...

That might be an air leak. Is it both cylinders or just one?

You'll definitely want a manual for that.. everything is different..

Compression okay? A worn top end will make it tough to start.

A perfect Banshee toolbox for your fullsize truck bed to fit next to the Banshee. It just won't work in the bed of my S10 with the Banshee. Its never been mounted... got it as a gift and it just won't be used. Was going to mount it this spring but it won't work with my setup so its up for grabs. Its the diamond-plate fenderwell toolbox. Opens lengthwise so you don't have to worry about it smacking the contents of the bed, or the side rail. It has a lock and a hydraulic thingy in it so the lid doesn't fly up fast. Comes with all original TSC mounting hardware. Sells for about $200 new from TCS. Just make me an offer. Its pretty light but a little bulky.. can pick it up if in southern Michigan area. If you want a pic, just post or PM me and I'll get one for ya. http://www.mytscstore.com/detail.asp?pcID=...&productID=1641 Its the 48" one. someone kick me if this is a Banshee-parts-only forum...

The trick to that is getting the jaws to touch each side of the bolt just as far before you can snap the vice grip handles closed as possible. That gives you the final Grip Of Death on the bolt.

Pretty much any auto store should have a similar pump. I paid like $20 for mine but it sure beat paying some bizzo $75 to change the differential lube. A lot of those auto stores also sell those self-bleeding bolts. You pop 'em in, put a plastic tube on the end so you don't get brake fluid all over your spindles/rims/etc, and then just sit on the seat and keep pulling the brake handle and keeping the resevoir filled. They're 1-way valves for 1 person bleeding jobs. I saw them at one of the auto stores around here a while back...

Yup, either at the Stealership or online from one of the retailers. I tried every auto store and nobody had 'em because of their goofy size.

Sounds like there is still air in the system.. It took a lot of pumping in my 900RR front brakes before I had any pressure and they took a little while to bleed. You're closing the bleeder bolt immediately after opening it and letting the air/brake fluid out, and while the brake handle is still compressed, right? Even if you let up slightly.. it draws air back into the system. You may want to go to Autozone and get a hand pump on their Loan-A-tool program. You just hook it to the bleeder bolt, use the pump a bit, and it'll bleed itself in no time at all. You can buy them for about $20 there also. I got one for doing the front differential lube on my truck (no drain plug or pumpkin cover) and it works great for brakes too.

Yeah, really nothing to it. You'll see. I loosened the two screws (no need to take them out), put the feeler inbetween the magnet and pickup, moved the pickup, and then tightened them down. Once you get the cover off, it takes only a moment to do. You don't even have to take the shift lever off -- just rotate the cover up and out of the way.

Yup, .015-.025. That timing hash should be even with the case line down the middle. Yours a tight fit, also?

All of the keihin carbs I've hed (Tecate with one, 2 CR500s, 250R with one..) have had bad needle valves either upon purchase of the quad/bike or after a short time. After adjusting the float height and finding out it was the needle valve, replacing those did the trick. The ones in my shee leak after a bit (Mikuni) and I can see the needle slightly notched (worn), but for now I'm just shutting the fuel off. Check your float height, and check the needle valve.