nater006

The good thing is that once you crack the cases, there is really nothing to assembling the main components of the tranny. The gear clusters literally drop in and pop right out, and removing the forks, guides, and drum are no big deal either. Make sure your shift forks aren't bent or anything and make sure it all meshes nicely before reassembling the case. Disassembling/reassembling the gear clusters is another beast but for the most part, save for replacing a gear or gear pair itself, you shouldn't need to. Oh, and when its apart.. wash the crap out of the inside of the cases with brake cleaner or similar. Might as well start clean!

The vacuum pump or one-man bleeder bolts are worth their weight in gold for brake jobs. Got a vacuum pump for like $20, lifetime warranty, and it works wonders on brake systems.

Depends on what you want to do with the bike, and what you want to get out of it. If you're planning to heavily modify it, including engine mods, get some CPI in-frames or Toomey T5 pipes. Lots of FMF Fatty fans in here, also.. pretty good gains across the whole range with those... though, the T5 pipes just scream

Screw the electric one... if you're serious about getting a winch and not having it weigh down the front too much more, look at something like this... http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/sto...tegoryId=278918 You get the idea... might want to look larger or smaller but.. something like that will do ya.

87-88 were the Tecate4 ones. Used to have an 87. They are fast as heck, till the powervalve sticks open with carbon.. inevitable. Then you can dump in a KX250 powervalve and wooooooooo does it fly even more... The suspension geometry leaves something to be desired. The T3s were pretty spiffy too though. Fast machines.

The one experience I had with a bubble and consistent lack of fuel flow to carbs was when my gas cap vent got plugged. I assumed that it tried to suck air back into the tank due to the vacuum it had created, through the carbs, since it couldn't through the tank vent. May or may not be the correct diagnosis, but unplugging it fixed mine on my old Tecate4.

While you have it apart, it would be an optimal time to do the shift star mod if you haven't already. Fantastic mod. And, before someone else says it... get a Clymer manual if you haven't done so before tearing it apart. Lots of info you may need... especially torque specifications! Someone else might have a link to a downloadable Yamaha service manual also. A pic of my little "discovery" when tearing apart my trans with a clunking in 2nd gear. The old clusters popped right out, and the new ones w/ new bearings, etc, popped right in, and that was that. Disassembling them would probably need the manual...

Did mine for the first time a few months back to replace both gear clusters. All in all, it took no special tools except for a flywheel puller and an impact wrench, if you consider that a special tool. As for replacing the gears... if you haven't already bought parts, you can get intact gear clusters off of ebay for pretty cheap. Bought my set through K&K for a decent price. Then all you have to do is purchase new seals (and bearings, if you'd like.. might as well while you're in there) and some Yamabond #4 and have at it. Took me just basic hand tools, a deadblow hammer for splitting the cases, and the impact wrench for the primary drive gear nut, clutch boss nut, and flywheel nut... and the flywheel puller ($10) itself. Meat's got a ton of pics up at http://www.thebansheezone.com, of like.. everything, and I tossed a few from my transmission experience up at http://webuser.bus.umich.edu/olmsnj/tangen...nsheetrans.html

Hehe.. yah, lots of bare swingarms on ebay for a "fraction" of QSM's cost too -- but by the time you get done getting it powdercoated, get a twin row carrier, etc, its $50-100 over QSM's price, minimum. Done a bit of research, and QSM wins for the price, hands down... and according to a lot of folks, for the quality and customer service aspects also.

Well it sounds as though if I want super sticky control, stud those tires up. If i'm still having dreams of 120' powerslides and donuts (mmmmmmm... donuts) then maybe gotta keep an un-studded set around too Just hadn't ridden a quad w/ ice studs yet... thanks for the insight!

Man, being a little more tired at work and re-reading the topic.. you might wanna consult with a plastic surgeon before improving your personal exhaust flow...

http://www.m-w.com Thats gotta be my most visited site, save for BansheeHQ.

Wrong time of year but... need to keep busy, preparing for all seasons Only thing I've done ice riding on was my 91 CR500 with crazy studded tires. Planning on taking the shee out on it this winter. Anyway... Who's done this? Is it worth it to stud up a set of old tires? Half the fun for me would be sliding around, doing powerslides at good speeds, etc, but it'd still be nice to be able to get up to speed! Already got the lowering kit (rear block + front shock adapters). Anyway, whats the good word? Got an old set of razrs, going bald, to stud up if necessary. Not planning on racing.. just sliding around for hours with friends, away from the fisherfolk.

The best part of that is how you don't even know me and you are assuming you're more mature. Now that the discussion has degraded to the point of who is more mature and whatnot, with name-calling and inevitable flames on the near horizon, PM me or jump in chat if you wish to talk more. No need to clutter the forum with it.

If the steering knuckle is stock, it should be the typical ball joint or heim joint. Anyway, Banshees, cars, trucks.. the balljoints all get stuck in the knuckle pretty well after riding on them a while. Find a good solid spot near where the balljoint hooks into the knuckle, and whack it a few times with a hammer. It took a heckuva lot of hits on my S10 @ 110,000 miles to break the OE balljoints free from the knuckle, with a 5lb hammer, but they popped right out eventually. Even if you pry away with a picklefork, they won't pop out if they're just stuck in there. A BFH is just the tool!

...and being older means that you are much more mature, doesn't it? Age doesn't win respect... maturity does.

Was originally going to link to this page as a joke cause its refered to so much but... haha.. joke was on me when they actually had a section regarding the refinement/etc.. http://science.howstuffworks.com/diamond.htm

No kinks in the fuel line? Choke tube is on OK? If it isn't, it'll severely lean out the right-hand carb.

want something fun (geeky) and rather anti-social to do? Add "SmarterChild" to your AIM list. Just chat with it -- its a robot.. I believe based on A.L.I.C.E. Kinda funny at times if you really argue with it. But watch it, they keep logs and have seen some of the funnier stuff posted on their website..

Yessuh. Unless they both happen to live in "Mass", use the same Psalm quote, both be mouthly little twits, both have a 99 Banshee, and one magically appeared as the other disappeared. Doesn't make much sense to change your identity and be a jackass to people again, under a different name.

If you're trying to cut an angle too sharp and its kinking, clip the hose there and get a small 90 degree coupler to take care of it for you. They do make small couplers that do the 90... not sure where you'd pick them up though. "Borrowed" mine out of my dad's "pipe fittings & more" toolbox.

sredish, I think it was Led who posted in the general forum a while back about painting his frame. Anyway, Walter hooked me up a bunch of years back.. told me to use a single-stage urethane on it. Took a sandblasted CR500R frame, used an etch primer, and some PPG single-stage urethane and it dried to a glossy, super hard finish that stood up to a beating. The only downside is that for the amount you'd have to buy, you'd probably be better off just sending it out for powdercoating..

Sounds like a plugged main almost. Either way, some carb cleaning is probably in order. I've seen ones that haven't been cleaned or get crap in them and the needle valve won't even more than a fraction of what it should to keep the bowl full of fuel.

Lots of folks have seemed to have decent luck with the Race Logic templates if you do a search, but I gotta agree with Mullet~Boy that if you want to make something really crazy, send it to a pro. Just looking for a little more zip out of the engine at an economical price, you should be able to get away with it if you take your time and use some templates.

sredish, As long as you have functional differences between them, you're fine. It'd be different if you had one to match each set of clothes you have... or match your wallet.. or something. No stereotypes here..