nater006

With a K&N and higher flowing exhaust, you'll prolly need to bump it up a couple jet sizes... but, as J..J. mentioned... check your plugs as they tell all.

Dude, everyone wants a "sport" ATV with an automatic transmission, 4x4, and electric start..

As long as its after the 9th (Mon), i'll be there!

Here's my source from my index page... All it does is basically list what the .swf file is called (In this case, index.swf). The Pluginspage deal will prompt the user to install the Flash player if it isn't already installed. W/o that bit o' code, it just won't work unless the user is so lucky to have installed flash previously. To get all of the above... most FLash/Swish/etc programs will have a "Save as webpage" type of feature which will create code like the above. Then you can just rename, add/subtract/edit as necessary. p.s., when you do create a flash deal.. its always nice to have a "skip" button on it somewhere so people don't have to sit through it if they're ready to tear into the page and order some shiz!

sredish, Try a program called "Swish". It will make whipping a flash item together a ton easier than using the fullblown Flash MX or 5 or whatever version. They have a lot of included stuff for making spiffy transitions and effects and whatnot. I am a computer geek through and through, and Flash was greek to me when I started. Using Swish helped get a basic level of understanding, and then working on Macromedia's Flash 5 was a bit easier. http://www.swishzone.com Last I used it, it had a really spiffy 15 min tutorial attached, explaining differnet objects, movement, durations, effects, etc. Just got through the basics and went with that but the tutorial went pretty indepth. Might be something to take a peek at if Flash 5 is pretty crazy at the moment..

Well it mostly depends on exactly what look you want to give your site The SSI is cool but it all scrolls together, unlike frames. Just allows different sections of your page to be derived from specific HTML files (i.e., a header, a menu, etc) so you can just update one and it updates on all pages. But, if you prefer having it all scroll separately... cool beans. Like Joe Dirt says.. "Its not what you want, its what the consumer wants!"

I'm not fast. Oh damn... just lost that one! kidding. One of the largest flame threads on the s10 forum was about the confederate flag.. and how the North whooped the South's arse, or how the South is better than the North.. and whatever else! funny thread..

Frames in general are OK but a cleaner and more modern look would be to use SSI (Server-side includes). There's a whole section on w3schools.com about it if you aren't familiar with it. All the pages I worked on, the doods in charge didn't want the frames look but did want the ease of updating a single .htm/.html doc for the menu bar and having it be updated on all the pages. SSI makes it possible... just frame-less. Just my $.02 from my web dev life your page does look good tho!

Advancing the timing causes the spark to occur earlier in the ignition cycle. Advancing the timing is a good way to get some extra HP. The fuel in the engine doesn't explode -- it is a controlled burn. The further you advance it, the more power you get, but also the closer you come to a condition called detonation (pinging), which is an explosion of the fuel and is very bad for any engine. A guy in the S10 forums posted a pic of bent rods from pinging. But, the stock timing is relatively conservative to prevent someone from pinging their engine to death if they run crap fuel. If you run higher octanes, you can advance it even further. Octane is basically the fuel's resistance to exploding (which is bad). The higher th better. Make sure you're running good (92/93+) octane fuel and you can safely advance it 4 degrees, most likely more.

Well like Capital One says... what's in your wallet? Either choice will do you fine. Elkas are going to cost a bit more. IMHO, you don't need something like Elkas unless you're racing. I got Works triple rates on mine (came w/ the bike) and they take some pretty good abuse. If you're going to race, or do other crazy things and get big air time or similar, Elkas are the way to go. Otherwise, save your money and and Works will be a really good step up from the stockers.

I asked the same thing when I reassembled and everybody said to use a thin layer of coverage on BOTH case halves. Think thats what my manual says too.. don't remember though. But, just thin and consistent coverage. If the mating surfaces are in good condition, thin coverage on both pieces will be fine. Here's a pic of one of my case halves before reassembling.. I cleaned up some of the missed corners, etc, before slapping it together. Hasn't leaked a drop in the few months its been back, either, and no problems at all. Barely any pressed out of the seam when the cases were reassembled, also.

Sounds like you either have... 1) a bad ground, or 2) a flaky switch. The switches are quite servicable. Pull 'em apart, take pics of where stuff goes, etc. I spray mine down with brake cleaner or some other non-residual stuff thats safe for electrical systems, scuff all the contacts with emry paper (or now that I'm lazy, a Dremel, carefully), coat everything with dielectric grease, and reassemble. As for the bad ground.. check your ground wires. Mine had a bad one when I got the bike. Just scuffed up where it connected to the frame so it was metal on metal, put dielectric grease on it, and put it back together and it was fine.

I run south to the Ohio border Cabellas is right along the way so its not a 35 min trip just for fireworks. But, Ohio is prolly a lil far from ya...

At work people have the little micro RS4 1/18th scale deals, modded out.. carbon fiber chassis, etc, the works. plus you can wedge a Big Block motor in 'em and some extra batteries and they go insanely fast, especially in the Cube Farm at work. thats about the extent of the r/c world for me, though...

they're great if you just like to go fast in a straight line if you want some handling, go with the TL1000 or mod out an RC51 and have a *really* fast racer

Happy birthday! No wonder you've been so grumpy... kidding! hope its a good one!

Traverse City is like... 2 hours away, approximately. Not worth it If you want somewhere close.. check out Hart, Shelby, Muskegon (like 30 min down the road), Whitehall, White Cloud, etc. All close by. Oh, or Pentwater, or even Ludington. Can't do the 7th, but the 31st would work for me.. there's another thread [sandfest] looking about that time, maybe late August, so.. might wanna check both

I'm down with that! Should have the bloody thing tuned up and going fine by then... Only weekend that is bust is the first one in August.. like the 7th-8th.. for me. Any others, I am THERE. Parents live up the road only about 20 minutes but camping is fun.. Keep in mind that they're getting more anal about dB and spark molester checks.. so some exhaust changes might be necessary :\

Well, you got the fuel lines hooked up properly, and when you turn the fuel on, you can see it run down through the lines into the carbs, right? The slide is seated correctly back in the carb you took off -- the needle seated down into the jet.. and the top tightened on all the way? Make sure you get the choke tube back on too or you'll melt the right side down..

It will take away some of the grunt, but will give more speed, assuming you're talking about the front sprocket. It depends on what you want out of it. If you don't care about low end grunt, wheelie power, etc, then muck with the gearing and see if you like it. But, you are trading off power for speed, basically. If you're looking for a mod to add more power/speed capability, and just just one to adjust the power to speed ratio, a more aggressive cam is the way to go.

for a thumper, a cam. Some of the newer stuff like the YFZ450 have titanium valves and stuff in 'em already. A more aggressive cam will do it good, and it shouldn't be too difficult to replace.

Cobra is the shiz

Disconnect the TORS system first if its a spark problem. There's the black box under the left side of the shee, just disconnect it. If you had the stator cover off and may have bumped stuff around, make sure the pickup coil gap wasn't affected.

if you send it to nathano@hotmail.com, i'll host it / post it