nater006

Heh! I hear ya there man! Was staring at a $3500 bill earlier in the year and going... WTF am I thinking? Oh well.. it'll pay off soon!

I'm betting that's that nifty exhaust gas temperature doohicky he's got... congrats!

I think he was past that point... he just didn't care what anybody thought of him.

sredish -- when you find out, let me know who makes those. Wanting better a-arms for mine, but 2" wider might be more than I need. +1+2 seems like a good move for my suspension.. though the +2+1 would be a close second. Lemme know what you find out

The Toomey T5 is a good pipe.. they really scream, and are a great compliment to a heavily modified engine. Though, some people like the Fattys better.. some like the CPIs.. etc. The Toomey T6 is a good pipe too, if you plan on very minor engine mods. Better than the T5 in that capacity.As for the boring... see what its at now. If it just needs a clean-up job, you may be able to get by with .010 over what you're at now.. otherwise, .020 over what you're at now. All depends on the current bore's condition and size. Something to keep an eye out for if you get a used one is whether the crank has been welded or not. If it hasn't, well, you'll want/need to get that done before long as it will probably grenade eventually. If you're tearing the top end down anyway, crack the cases and get the crank worked. Or, buy one with it already done.

LIke the other guys said.. just be humble and sincere. They are going to let you off easier if you are remorseful for what you've done. Be careful -- don't use your explanation as an excuse because that is not being remorseful. If you use it as an EXPLANATION in conjunction with your remorsefulness, you'll be much better off. Don't say.. ."well I was just taking it for a spin down the sidewalk to get my yadda yadda adjusted because I figured it was OK". Explain that yes, you messed up and are sorry, and you didn't realize that deciding to [fill in whatever your excuse is] was a bad choice at the time but understand your actions now and would never do it again. Or whatever. Obviously if you plead innocent and try to fight it, scratch what I said above, but still be sincere, honest, and humble. If they find you guilty, be remorseful.

Stock gearing? In the mid 70s

First engine I've ever seen with a ladder next to each crank journal Could put one in the shee.. it could be A CENTER FOR ANTS!

Plus, less crap to worry about going bad on the machine. Sure it'd be nice to be able to top off a nice (heavy) oil resevoir and just tank up on straight gas or race fuel, but there's more moving parts to go bad, more weight, etc.

After complaining about having to carry a buddy a long way home from the club/bars (walking), I went and got blasted worse than I've ever been in my life a few weeks ago at his wedding. Never ever will drink a dark ale beer again though. Thats all I got to say about that. Have a happy 21st, Lefty!

rebel, its not bad at all. With low kick self protection ammo (165 grain HydroShok hollowpoints vs the normal 230 grain) it is more like a 9 but with the punch of a .45. If you know how to shoot, you just keep a good grip and it is not bad at all. The 230 grain stuff kicks a bit but it still isn't bad. Quite accurate too. The scary thing is that that lil Bobcat 21.. .22LR, only has like a 1" or 1 1/4" barrel and it is really accurate. Lots of fun to shoot too! Firehead -- I almost got one of those instead but opted for the .45 due to it being a carry weapon. A little more control, and more ooomph if you're close up. The .40 is great if you're not up close due to the higher velocity. But for a carry weapon, its perfect. Both are good choices.

NAX, if its a '95 Blazer with a V6 it almost certainly has the 4.3L CPI (central port injected) engine. But, you can take a pic if you want and I'll tell you what to rip off and put on

I have a Glock 30. 10 shot subcompact .45. Here's my .45 next to my Bobcat 21 (Beretta). .22LR, 7 shot. VERY concealable. Oh, I since stripped the rubber grip off the Glock. Fits better in my hand without it. Actually more accurate w/o it too. Good fitting gun though.

Nah, screw the chip for now. You won't get nearly the performance gains that you'd get from modifying your intake track, exhaust, and putting underdrive pulleys and an e-fan on it. Almost all of those (save exhaust) are a lot cheaper anyway.

http://www.rrzone.com Don't think its as hoppin' as it used to be but there's lots of good info. Got a '93 900RR (w/ a 97 motor wedged in there) and got lots of info off of that site.

Well if you already have the "muffler" (if a Cherry Bomb qualifies! ) you can get the tubing for really cheap. If you can't find the already-bent stuff at your local stores, most muffler shops are willing to bend and sell you the pieces for a good price.

Is it 2WD or 4WD? Exhaust is not a bad idea. The stock system is OK though. You can get a better muffler, headers, and Y-pipe for it though. Lots of people get the SLP Y-pipe but its a waste of money. Edelbrock has their Tubular Exhaust System (a.k.a. TES) for it which is a really good system. Its basically headers and a Y-pipe. Problem is, its pretty thin mild steel so it will rust through. Get somewhere to ceramic coat it for a decent price (not too expensive) and it'll last for a long damn time and be about as good as performance as really expensive headers like Gibson or JBA. For a muffler... whatever you want. Flowmaster or Dynomax. It will NOT sound like a ricer though. Pushrod V-90 engines rule Also... underdrive pulleys are a great "economical" mod, weighing in at like $100 plus a new belt which run like $30-40 for the funky size the new pulleys take. Good mod though. Forgot to mention that earlier. Pretty easy bolt-on though. They claim like.. 12.5 HP.. its not nearly that much.. but will help with HP and mileage. 1 other great mod -- an E-fan. The clutch fan sucks. It is loud as hell, wears out your water pump bearings, and robs your engine of power. Kill it, and get an electric fan. The 3.8L Taurus fans work REALLY well, or you can get a Perma-cool 14" that pulls like 2950cfm (more than enough) like I got for around $85, plus about $15-20 worth of adjustable thermostat, relay, and wiring. Not a hard mod to do.

First off, how many miles? That's a CPI engine most likely and the CPI unit or nut kit might be on its way out. They fail, no matter what you do. Necessary evil. Usually the mileage drops when that happens and it "just doesn't run quite right". For the 4.3s.. it won't sound ricerish. Pushrod V6 is pretty throaty if you open up th exhaust. Just don't do something like put a huge bumblebee frat boy muffler on it. Anything larger than what the headers exit to is just a waste of larger pipe. Intake.. don't waste $200-250 on a K&N FIPK II. There are LOTS of ways to make custom cold air intakes (CAIs) or similar with a K&N clamp-on filter. I just got a drop-in filter and modded my airbox for higher flow. Guaranteed the $250 FIPK II has nothing better. internal mods... roller rockers or full roller rockers are a good mod. You can get 1.6 ratio rocker arms instead of the stock 1.5. Only problem with full roller 1.6 rockers is that you need valve cover spacers if you want to run them. Good "drop-in" mod though. An ignition never hurts. Crane Cams makes a really good drop-in multi-spark ignition. Runs about $200-250 with a coil. Relatively drop-in install. Watch your alternator. Sometimes the bearings go bad, or the brushes wear out and they die. I put a 180amp one from alterstart (http://www.4alterstart.com) for a good price. Way better than the stock 105 amp one. I can go on for days... just ask

Strap wrench to hold it, and a 1/2" drive 150 ft/lb torque wrench to snug it to spec.

Damn... I'd need to upgrade from my '96 S10 to start pulling the stuff you guys have.

Hmmmm.. about the volumes and whether you'd get pulled over, I don't know.. but you can buy basic pre-shaped exhaust pieces at most auto stores. Murrays has a whole rack of stuff around here. Even some stores like Meijer/Wal-mart sell some pre-shaped pieces. If you need anything really custom bent, most muffler shops will do it for really cheap. One of my friends got a piece of like 3" mandrel bent tubing to make an intake for his Blazer and paid next to nothing. Just need th e bends, then straight pipes to hook to those

That one was too funny... "Brady show... the Wayne Brady show... not the Dave Chappelle show.. Wayne Brady show" I was cracking up. The small quick sketch ripping on the Grand Theft Auto games was downright funny. Being a fan of GTA3.. yeah.. was busting a nut laughing at the "real life" version he made.

Bigairee -- it was changed a while ago. 100,000 isn't really a whole lot for one of those Vortec 4.3L engines. I checked the entire thing for leaks and it is bone dry. The bloody oil cooler lines are on the third set but they're the "fixed" set (S-10 4.3L owners will know what I'm talking about) so they don't leak a drop. Everything else is golden. Valve seals are looking pristine. No smoke in the least... doesn't burn any oil. Doesn't leak a drop save for what little bit gets spilled when i change the oil... Either way, it likes the synthetic but I doubt it'll notice with Amsoil vs Mobil 1.

yup, the ease of interchangeable domes is worth it. i have the Pro Design -- came on the quad. Would love to have an anodized Noss head but can't justify turning my PD into a $180 candleholder at this point.. Banshee~, nice call in using the tank as a shop seat...