nater006

www.s10forum.com (S10/Sonoma/Blazer/Jimmy forums) sometimes.. other than that... wherever I need info from

Get an aftermarket head (Noss, Cool Head) with smaller domes, get the thing ported, get the flywheel lightened (won't add HP but makes it rev nicer), and advance the timing. Any of the above in any order.. and you might want to get your crank welded before too long also.

and where did you find those rates? I called everywhere and nobody would touch my 900RR (i'm 23, perfect driving record at the time) for under $1500/year for full coverage.

Sometimes ya gotta start blue-collar, even having a degree and/or certs, and get some entry level experience. Other than that, just go to a job agency and they can probably find you something to use as a stepping stone later on. I'm finishing up school now for my computer science BS but am already working in the field... and a lot of the newbies coming in are just having to work their way up..

Yeah... just gotta know how to shop! I tried a few different BCDs (or BCs, for some of you) and really liked the Sherwood Avid. Really great. Retail is like $475, and thats what they wanted at the shop for it. I used a used Avid, a couple years older, and it wasn't as nice but it was great. Picked one up off of Ebay, brand new, with all the trimmings, for around $250 shipped. Its great Renting is great.. I just want to pick up my own stuff gradually, and read up and everyone said to start with the stuff that's fit-specific, like BCD and wetsuit. crbanshee -- planning to go on a shark dive next summer, unless we go on vacation over Christmas to somewhere warm.. Fiji in 2006. Probably Cozumel this coming summer. Hopefully I can get my Advance Open Water cert by then. Banshee~ -- the class was only a weekend and then the 4 required cert dives in a lake, which were spanned across 2 evenings. I read the book before, so the weekend class was a review basically, and I feel very comfortable and have dove a couple times since. or you can do like.. a night a week for around 6 weeks or so, but, the weekend one was great

Got my basic open water cert just recently... have been on a couple non-Caribbean (read: murky and cold) dives.. and damn, its a great sport... and wondering if any of the rest of you is into it... and, if so, what equipment (if any) you have and like, good dive spots, etc.

Uuuuuuhhhh, no I don't. Never been to Oregon, I'd sure love to someday, and I promise to gear down. Yah, just giving you hell for no good reason..

Man its no joke when one of the arms goes free. A few of years ago when i had my second CR500 a friend had his Banshee and we were out riding.. the lower balljoint snapped or came un-hooked or something and he went flipping at a very high speed on the concrete. Big mess. He went to the hospital via ambulance and I carried his busted machine back to one of our farm buildings with a forklift. He was pretty beat up. Just fixed it and sold it when he got out of the hospital... kinda sad.. he vowed to never ride again.

Was reading the topic and wondering... WTF happened to TORS? EVERYBODY LOVES TORS! kidding.. then saw it was a KTM.

If there's gas coming out the overflows at all, especially while not running, you still might want to check your float level.

Do that in Oregon sand and then you can call people pussies. He just revs it wayyy up before letting the clutch out, and comes back and starts a couple threads about what replacement clutch fibers and steels to get before next ride...

Nah, won't hurt it much at all. Probably won't really even notice they are there. Just ditch your coolant resevoir, airbox, and cut the front fenders... you can call it even

...and a 17" wheel, whereas the stocker for that may be the oh-so-lovely 16" like my 900RR has. I picked up a SSSA for my 900RR (off of a VFR) but haven't gotten around to throwing it on with the spacers, etc. They're cool lookin though.

Check those slides, and make sure they're in right. I don't know if the shee carbs have the space, but in some carbs you can get the slide back in and not get the needle seated properly. Make sure they're seated, and in the correct carbs. The side that's slightly cut away at an angle should be towards the airbox. As for it constantly flowing out the overflow, the floats need to be adjusted, or it could be the needle valve in the carb sticking and not cutting off the fuel flow properly. They get a notch worn in them over time in some cases and don't seat tightly sometimes and the fuel just runs right through. Check the float level first though.

You can usually do like 4 degrees on pump gas. Through all the different things I've read/heard, 4 degrees seems to be the best advance. You don't really need other mods to utilize it, but the intake/exhaust will as usual compliment any engine mods you'd do. The choices are to get an advanced key for the crank and flywheel, mod your timing plate with a dremel or other tool and some patience, or buy an adjustable timing plate. I got my Ricky Stator one for like $35. Goes up to +10 or -10 degrees, and is clearly marked so you really can't mess up. All of the above are relatively inexpensive but effective ways to advance it.

Yep... in many cases, they're even stronger than stock. The kits are relatively inexpensive. You'll need new studs if the threads are toast though.

The loudest, most obnoxious and hearable-over-my-truck-stereo one I can find. No songs here

It might just be the cable that therail mentioned above. Before buying mine I helped a friend reassemble his after painting the frame, like 5 years ago, and it did exactly that because we forgot to tighten down the lil bracket that holds the cable in place. Its right under the carbs.. It'll likely be one or the other if the clutch lever just currently has no resistance at all.

no prob, and welcome to the HQ

Porting will definitely help since you have an intake and pipes to support a decent port job... obviously ya gotta tear down and send the cylinder out somewhere or take it somewhere unless you get the do-it-yourself templates, but.. bang for the buck.. porting rules. And/or.. have someone lighten your flywheel!

http://www.thebansheezone.com/Bansheezone/CoolheadChart.htm Should be what you're looking for..

I did about the same thing as 2Smoker... put mine back together and didn't torque that darn nut down, and after about a dozen clutch pulls... boom.. there was nothing there. Just lever play. Darn thing had worked itself loose. Re-torqued and it was fixed right up.

I'd guess that since its coming up non-stop and you're running mostly sand, the +4 would be the way to go. If you still ride trails, might want to consider the shorter one.

Looks nice... will definitely save your shee's underside if you go through the bad stuff.

I got the RK kit to replace the stuff on the my shee picked up earlier this year. Its held up great thus far. It might not be the best, per say, but is a good kit none-the-less. Wasn't too expensive either.