Trick2stroke

Yes sir. That would be me.

Well I am just looking at it from the perspective of what the serval is handy for, which is being able to lug a gear or short shift and it pull hard back into the upper RPM's. You're right when banging through the gears you're staying in a more constant high rpm range, but that is what the Cub and drag style porting and mods are for.

That's the whole point. The flat curve puts the power to the ground more efficiently, although, you may not feel as fast. Hence the term more "rideable" curve, you don't have to fight the power to keep control.

How does he know it's the fastest around if he doesn't race? Lol I like his attempt at justifying his "nothing left stock" statement. As if suspension is trivial an unimportant. What a tool.

I see more yellow than purple..

Holy shit, slow down a bit and make your post legible. --- I am here: http://tapatalk.com/map.php?0ov5q1

Not to often, probably once every few months.

Looks interesting. Definitely something I would have to try before knocking. Like mentioned it doesn't look like a hack job, maybe not the best conversion but a pretty good one.

I'm from the Houston area. I live up near Austin now.

You might consider Lectrons also. They seem to be much easier to tune, however, I don't have a whole lot of direct experience with them. I wouldn't go higher than 30-34mm to salvage the low end snap for the trails. I don't know what a stage one or two port entails or whom is responsible for said porting (I would assume trinity) but an aggressive MX port or dune port sounds like what you need. Also would stay away from Toomey's for a ported motor, they work well with stockish engines. You will get varied advice on pipes, some swear if you're duning or trail riding to stick with procircuits, others will say rockets or shearers maintain plenty of low end but still have the over rev for the dunes. In all honesty you're going to be happy with almost any set up you default on and that's why everyone swears by something different. It's pretty hard to find good, truely unbiased, advice based simply on back to back comparisons and experience.

So what is your goal here, just a hp number? What type of riding are you doing? You say it's ported for the "strip" yet it has fmf pipes and a 2-1 carb set up. These are contrasting mods on different ends of the spectrum. Toomey's are also not a wise choice for any modified engine let alone for a drag application. On another note, you will not loose hp by switching to the stock stator, as long as you maintain the same degree of advancement. By stating you want the headlights and tail lights I assume this is just a trail/rec bike so if your cylinders are ported for drag you may want a new top end. Do some reading around the site and educate yourself before asking a ton of questions. And once you do that, grow some thick skin and realize its the Internet. You were wrong to fly off the handle in this case but I have seen threads where people were hazed for asking noon questions, it's the nature of the site.

This is a very subjective topic and obviously there's no one answer. If you build towards a certain purpose you will be better off, but like mentioned, just the basics will be good for an all around bike, Cam nailed it imo.

You can get orange laker customs for about 450 shipped or a little less.

Just use a crescent wrench and adjust it down flush on the tab and bend them back by hand. I've had to do this on two different frames in the past. It's not difficult to bend them.

Looks sharp, I will most likely be snagging some of these sometime soon. Maybe even a walk through with pics of a dc conversion would be a cool resource to have and maybe limit the threads and posts asking how to do so.

Pods should not be on anything but a drag or dune bike.

I have some 14" k&n clamp ons that are like new. Shoot me a pm if you're interested.

Hubs are gone. Thanks for looking!

James has been awesome about the situation, I'm sure had the post office been a little more gentle in their jobs things would be fine but we all know most of them don't give a shit and traveling thousands of miles, shit can happen. My post was just to get people's attention to be critical when making sure their things are packed well. I should have even gone so far as to ask for pics of how it was being packed (something I recommend and will do from now on and something I do myself when selling.) when purchasing sensitive parts. Since hearing back I would not hesitate to buy from Hannon. This was just an unfortunate mishap that we are working out. Once again my post was just precautionary, not negative.

They look like defaced toomey's.. You couldn't give those away to 98% of people on this site.

A bit of caution, I bought some engine components from Hannon and they were VERY poorly packed and I am questioning the integrity of the parts now. (box was literally ripped wide open and the crank was in a crate the post office provided themselves to hold the box and loose parts, I have pics.) I will be in contact with him to get some resolve here and see how he handles this and will create a thread showing the pictures of the package as it arrived. I am not going to say positive or negative until I see how he is handling this situation. The reason for posting in this thread is to forewarn potential buyers as even if he corrects this mistake, it is indeed that, a mistake. A good seller must never send out expensive parts with even the slightest bit of doubt they will arrive in perfect and insured shape. I even made specific mention to be sure the parts were very well packed. Just a bit of caution for anyone buying sensitive parts. Until then buyer beware. Blake

You are way out of touch with reality. There are plenty of drag banshees on this forum making more hp with FAR less weight that would kill your little project bike. My bikes are not built to road race or drag race so do not make this a personal attack of "better than what you've got." I purpose build my bikes and road or drag has nothing to do with it. If you want to make this a battle of how big of a number you've seen on your speedo, I've seen 186 on my CBR. I am under no illusion it was accurate but I will say I was easily in the mid to high 100's.

Depends on the a arms you run. Mine uses a pair of axis triples that are 19.75" with FireBall LT arms.

<br /><br /><br /> Because it is, it is on a stand. Even the minimum blue book will be next to impossible to fetch in this market. You will loose money by selling. You just have to look at the new cost as a sunk cost, then decide if you need the money it will realistically bring or if you should just hold on to it. You won't get much more than 3000-3500.

People must have been doubling up on checking back on this post, my view count says 6000+.