Trick2stroke

You seem to be using some really twisted logic here and are discrediting the suggestions from more knowledgeable and well respected members who actually have experience with this very comparison. If you're going to create a topic asking what exhaust you should run for your set up maybe you should be prepared to listen to suggestions rather than relying on Trinity's falsified dyno charts to make such a decision and combat suggestions. I would not run any of Toomey's pipes on anything other than a completely stock motor. I'm assuming you have porting to go along with your 4 mil? I would probably run pro circuits or PT mids if you want this lower rpm performance you're going on about. An exhaust has NOTHING to do with your engine life, the way you maintain it and the parts/builder you use will determine this.

Like mentioned I would imagine it would be better on a bike with a lot of tq to pull the wider ratio. Maybe a good engine to try it on would be a 10 mil super serval or a large stroke pv cheetah.

+1 The 10 mil SS is what I intend to build down the line and it will be good to see the R&D.

Look into a hydrolic clutch set up from streamline. I have plans to get one for the banshee further down the line in my build, my ktm has one and it has me spoiled. I can't comment on how effective it is on the banshee but here's a link to another member that recently bought one. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=137456&pid=1202692&st=0entry1202692 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=400188090684&crlp=1_263602_304652&ff4=263602_304652&viewitem=&guid=8cf012441270a0b583c6c2e6fffcd179&hlp=false&rvr_id=200118235121&ua=WVF%3F&itemid=400188090684

Hey Outfront, I don't know if your inbox is full or if you've been busy but I sent you a couple PM's letting you know PayPal has been sent, just waiting for your confirmation that you've seen it and when you will be shipping out the parts. Thanks, Blake

The straight cut gears from whiteknuckle are listed at 375 on their site.. Just a heads up if you're having trouble selling, that may be why because of the new price.

That's USPS for ya, they can get sloppy sometimes. You can't control shipping. What counts as you were assuring and in touch the whole time USPS was slacking.

A few more questions. Since the wompus cylinder is made to appear stock, is there any downside to this? Such as smaller cooling jackets? Also, what displacement and hp/tq would you expect from a super serval 10 mil?

I've used the rpm and the lsr and both were fantastic axles. I now run a RAD titanium axle for weight savings and the threaded hubs, by far my favorite. It weighs less than the others by them selves with the carrier, sprocket, disk, and wheel hubs mounted.

Doesn't seem like it would be too difficult to get some drawings up in CAD. I have eventual plans to do this along with a 250R/450 style frame, once I graduate, and have the money and facilities to do so. With any luck if I can reproduce these things well, in a cost effective manner, and get my fabrication skills up to par. I will pay to be a site sponsor such as stellar and offer similar product only geared more toward mx/xc/desert rather than drag. This would be a dream come true for me.

Any idea when the 7 and 10 mil servals will be offered? I just wonder why there isn't a pv option serval, seems this would further add to the idea and appeal.

Bought some immaculate parts jr, excellent communication. Would do business again.

In previous posts it came off to me that you were using the entire front end from the yfzr, hence my confusion and the confusion of others. I wasn't trying to be a dick I just didn't want someone who didn't have a clue to come through and confuse what you were saying at it's face value and spread misinformation. I'm not sure what makes you think my bike is being set up for mx? As of right now I have a +2 +1 lsr front end with tripple rate works for around 500. Not a bad deal and no head aches.

I would run nothing larger than a 9, nothing larger than an 8 if using 18-19" tires. 20's would be the cut off for 9 inch rims. For mx you'd want to be running either 19's or 20's up front with 18's or 19's out back on an 8" rim. You'd be okay with 20's but it's not ideal.

Some aftermarket cylinders have powervalves that vary the port height, it is completely different than the valves in a 4 stroke. Honestly if you need more power I don't see much you can do that isn't already done with those cylinders, aside from adding a stroker crank. What size domes are you running?

I'm with bonbon, nothing special if you ask me. If I were spending that kind of coin I'd just as soon buy an aftermarket frame and go from there. Maybe if they stopped making them all together and you found a gem like this 20-30 years from now, that would be a sweet find.

Stock shocks, swinger, a arms, axle, jugs, etc.. I really would like to know where these people listing their bikes claiming 10, 15, 20, and 25 grand into them are getting their figures.

I don't think he intends to be riding over his vacation is what he's getting at. While he can't ride have the cylinders out so he doesn't have to look at an out of commission bike. I understand all to well how much it sucks to have the bike down while your buddies are out tearing it up.

Once again bought parts from Tony, excellent transaction as always. Best seller around.

Dude, seriously. Do you ever say anything that makes any sense?

I strapped megaphones to my headers, I call them loudeners. It's the next big thing.

I was reading about one of those 1100 tripple billet motors, bitch makes around 250 horses.

Thank you, Confirmed everything I was thinking with that set up.

Some of that info seems strange, aren't the yfzR's wider than older models and also have narrower frame rails? Seems as though this would not only make the banshee ridiculously wide but also the shock mounts would be further out making it sit even lower? Seems like a horrible set up for XC. A steering stabilizer will not make the bikes steering less stiff. Also adjusting the shocks to gain an extra .5? You mean you adjusted the ride height lower until you got the width you needed? Doesn't sound like proper procedure. Can Matt or someone clarify what I'm missing here if he is on the right track? I'd hate to be misinformed or have others misinformed by this.

Just thinking out loud. I have the 450 calipers on the banshee spindles which is all the mismatching I wanted to do but if there were no ill effects and they were lighter why not!