Trick2stroke

A buddy of mine just did this to his Hemi last night.

I remember when I was young and chased high HP numbers. You'll later learn it's not about having the most HP or the highest top speed but rather a quick bike that has a strong but smooth and ridable hp and tqr curve and the suspension to eat up whatever you're flying over. Anymore I won't touch an engine until the suspension is fully up to par and dialed in. You will be MUCH faster with a proper suspension set up that an extra 10-15 hp.

Yeah I'm thinking that's what it would take. I'm sure there's some sort of "tall" seat available also to offer some more padding. I think I still have a +1 or stock length LSR yfz anti vibe stem in the shop. It would be an excellent candidate for lengthening. Shoot me a PM if you'd be interested. I'll let it go cheap!

I do understand how that is. I think that stems from the majority of ATV engine swaps being so horribly done, giving them an overall bad rep. There are more prominent factors in the geometry also; depending on the swap, that would not, in most cases, affect a car as much or put you at as much risk as a failure on an ATV. Since all the half assing can be hidden by the cars body panels that also hides a lot of points of criticism. Not applying to your swap by any means but a lot of swaps are just incredibly impractical which also draws conflicting views. Most commonly a streetbike swap into a stock banshee. No attention to weight distribution, aftermarket suspension, or the fact that adding so much weight and cutting/welding on a frame is going to limit the extent to which you can now push the bike in rough terrain. You, however, have done the opposite of this in putting a lighter engine in a frame that is already well suspended and balanced without weakening or altering the frame. My only beef with the swap is I don't like how the YFZ feels all that much. I may try and put one of my extra shee motors in one of my 250R's though and see how I like that swap.

Wish I had noticed this sooner. Just bought some GNCC's from RMATV the other day. What's the reason for wanting a different tire? Performance or looks based?

Don't forget you will need to rejet your carbs after this.

Buy clamp on filters and take your air box off..

I've had pretty good luck with a brass wire brush and a little soap and water. Then once clean keep some armor all or one of the other rubber conditioners mentioned on them to stay clean.

Oh I understand waiting till the build is finished, I was just giving you a hard time on the rough look. Mine isn't pretty right now either, don't wanna put powder on something that needs reworked.

I've seen this discussed over the years and many very reliable people have stated it is not a good idea to use a high quality synthetic during break in as it can cause the rings to not properly seat. I would use a good castor oil for the first tank. Warm it up, let it cool, and check the torque to make sure nothing expanded or contracted and loosened. I took it somewhat easy the first 5-10 minutes and checked the plugs to be sure I wasn't leaning out. After that I couldn't control myself and rode it just as I would any other time, minus long WOT stints. Then after the first tank or two switch back to the Dominator synth and check the plugs again and do any other fine tuning that may or may not be necessary. This method has always worked great for me, power wise and over time. My top ends have always lasted for years. There's no exact science or proven end all method that I have seen.

As previously stated you will want to ditch the 18's without a doubt. I'd run anywhere from a 21-24" rear on an 8-9" rim. Your carb set up is fine. What are your other performance mods currently done? The 2-1 intakes work well enough and reduce fatigue due to a lighter throttle pull. I have a set of 28's, a set of 30's, and a 35 mm and 39 mm carb to try on the 2-1 chariot intake once I finish my build. A friend of mine knows a guy that has a chassis dyno and supposedly he will let us tune on it for free, I will see how true that is but regardless I will be doing seat dyno testing of my own to figure out which I prefer. Still getting my suspension and chassis mods in order first.

Great seller. Parts came well packed, as described and ready to use. Would buy again.

If I were running a straight stock bike no questions asked, I would buy a KTM. I had a banshee yfz hybrid and didn't like it. I'd say the banshee is by far the most comfortable quad I've ridden, with that said I would say the best combo would be a banshee frame with new geometry.

Welcome! I've been considering an 8 or 10 plate clutch to run on my future serval build to be 120% certain I have zero slip without a lock-up. Excited for the new site to check out the rest of the goodies you guys offer.

I'd have to disagree. Although there is no end all best pipe, it's going to depend on your set up and power preference.

Mine are +2+1 which is what yours appear to be, if they were +3 forward the ball joint would be much more offset. I agree cam, it's a much better idea to thread out the heims rather than the ball joints but it still seems odd that LSR would produce a product that is high quality yet at the same time have what I feel is a design flaw. Maybe I'm missing the true reason for it. They won't work with my new susp. anyway so I won't have to worry about too much abuse causing failure.

I have pretty much the identical LSR a arms on one of the banshee's and the uppers have to be that far out otherwise you have ridiculous camber. Obviously this is a weak point as one of the balljoints on mine has bent in the past. The lowers are threaded all the way in also just as his are pictured.

85-90 HP set up that is duneable and trail friendly is going to cost a lot. Sure you could probably get 90 peak hp out of a stock cylinder but chances are it's going to be a peaky and hard to ride curve. You ever had a banshee with over 60 hp? I think you may be surprised at how powerful a 60-75 hp bike is. Do a little research around the site and decide what set up is going to suit your riding best.

Awesome deal bro! Glad it worked out for you. I agree the RPM and LSR are some of the best, never personally used a durablue or Gforce. I run a RAD 40mm titanium axle with threaded alum hubs now, incredibly light and strong! Best I've had the pleasure of using.

I just wanted to say I wasn't meaning to push the G-Force over the LSR as my vague reply might presume. I agree 100% for the same price snag the LSR, however, most won't need worry with the quality difference for the abuse they put it through, just showing a contrasting option.

The lonestar axle is 400 new, however, you can get a brand new G-Force for 200 bucks. I've seen plenty of people put them through some major abuse and not have problems.

<br /><br /><br /> This is what I do as well. Take a small dia punch with a sharp tip and drive between the outer race and swinger. Take care not to angle into the swing arm, if you scar it at all make sure you file it smooth before putting in the new bearings.

Depends on a few things I guess. Is the type of riding you do involve tight trails where the a arms may give you a disadvantage? Will you still be able to load it in the back of your truck or trailer? Those could be some limiting factors for some. The pro's would be greater stability and the option to run a wheel more offset to the center line of the spindle, without loosing to much width.

Paul Turner Mids. The highs look pretty much the same, though on an mx or trail oriented bike I would assume mids.

That's what I was thinking, just couldn't tell for sure. Have you tried out a shorter set up on the track?