Trick2stroke

Works double or triples rate front shocks, +2+1 a arms, round house swing arm, I would suggest -1 or stock length for your riding, with a works rear shock. All shocks set up for your riding weight and style. It will be a whole new machine and you will love it.

TTT

Where are you located? I read through but didn't see mention. Sorry to hear the diagnosis.

Bump.

Correct, Paul Turner Mids.

Bump.

I found a pretty good deal on a RAD titanium axle with all billet hubs. It's lighter than stock but pricey and hard to come across used. The swing arm and tire/rim set up is probably your best bet for weight savings.

I have a boss intake without ride time so I can't say anything about the quality of mine, but the boots are interchangeable from other billet intakes such as the chariot. In their defense I would imagine they don't product the rubber boot and in the respect the billet piece seems to be nice. I hope they get back to you soon.

I suppose it depends on your riding style. I love the shorter swinger for everything I do, hill climbs and play drags alike.

You'll want a +4 axle as the a arms are +2 per side. Works dual rates would suffice fine as mentioned but it depends on if you have extra to spend to go triple or the pricier top of the line brands (axis, elka.) I don't do any dune riding or have any experience with paddles and how they hook up but I often suggest the largely overlooked mod that I feel makes the banshee handle like a whole new bike and hook up in the dirt, which is a -1 or -2 swing arm. Most are convinced the banshee needs to be lengthened (which may be true in the sand where the paddles eliminate the traction issues) but in my experience as a track and woods guy the shorter swing arm hooks and handles FAR better, not to mention for us that weigh around 200 or more the stock rear will handle your weight much better with the reduced leverage.

There are countless ways to do it and having a price range will help us know what mods to suggest. If you are mister money bags go full billet mattoon cases, chariot billet stator cover with bearing support, straight cut gears with a billet basket possibly with the option to run 8-10 plates and or a lock up, a lock up cover, etc... There's more I just can't think of off the top of my head as I would never build this type of motor for my type of riding. Do some research if you're serious about this, talk to one of the site sponsor builders. Right now most on here would feel as though they're wasting their time giving suggestions to a kid with big dreams, at your age you should be trying to learn all you can, read and search all over this site and soak it all up. At 15 I don't see how you are affording several thousand worth of mods on your banshee in the engine alone, like mentioned before, you should be spending money on your suspension FIRST as with 55-60 hp you already have far overpowered your set up. If you want the big motor you should be dropping another 2-3 grand easy on your suspension FIRST. I know you want the best of the best and the most power possible, I understand the mentality. However, you need to step back and analyze what is practical and what you will be doing with the bike and mod accordingly to accomplish this without any overkill and spending 10 grand on a trail bike.

Appreciate it fellas!

A buddy of mine is getting the arms and shocks that are on there now. Sorry. Let me know if you still want just the hubs.

Top speed will be dictated only by your gearing, the higher hp will help you pull the taller gearing but it will then be impractical for trail riding, you'd have to change sprockets depending on what you are trying to accomplish. If money is no object go with a big cheetah PV motor. Prepare to spend several thousand dollars building it properly.

I've been using aluminum oxide with great results.

Thank you for the link Pasi. According to the diagrams in the link it has the same dimensions as the banshee cage except the windows are slightly larger. The windows are 22.5 mm wide and 28 mm tall making it .5 mm larger in both dimensions. Here you can see the difference in the reed pedals. Thanks for the info Screamin, I'll see what I can find out about the fmf cages.

I think I'm going to go ahead and sell my billet front hubs, my new front end is going to be set up for YFZ spindles and these do not fit those spindles. They're ready to slide onto your spindles and go, disks are in great shape, bearings are like new, nothing wrong with these. Asking 210 shipped.

Okay so I have a set of reed cages that I'm not sure what they are, I thought they were stock at first glance but realized they're slightly larger and have three screws per side rather than two. They don't appear to be an aftermarket piece, more like a factory take off from something else? Here are the pics.

I think that was the longest run-on sentence I've ever seen Jim, lol. Some good info in there.

Great build! I love the ambition of taking the one you like the best regardless of ease. Everything looks very well done and I am excited to see it finished. You have to tell us how the stroked RZ feels compared to the 7 mil serval.

Depends on how much you want to spend and what type of power delivery you want. The best all around and reasonably priced cylinder set up seems to be the Serval cylinders, typically set up as a 4 mil. Then there's the cub, which is the same cylinder but with higher port timings, typically used more for drag. You could spend more and get the billet twister cylinders or the cheetah powervalved cylinders. There really are a shitload of options. I myself will be going with a serval I think once I have the chassis the way I want it.

Looks awesome! Cleaned up nicely.

How much are you asking for these? Also don't forget about shipping, it's pretty outrageous for plastics. Your best bet would be to use greyhound or some other freight type delivery service. I've been quoted over 200 dollars for shipping alone.

The stellar j arms are much stronger than stock.

Awesome pics CJ.