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94BansheeRider

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  • Location
    Tulsa, OK

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  • My Banshee (optional)
    T5's, mild port, 18cc domes, black Fullbore plastic, Dyna fs ignition, lightened flywheel, 28 pwks, Vforce 2 reeds, Works triple rate fronts

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  1. So you can show me the way to the short bus. The last year at 40:1, and the previous year at 32:1
  2. It is truly a sad day for metal fans all over the world. Dimebag was one of the greatest. At least the asshole that shot him got what he deserved. What a prick.
  3. I have two years and two hard riding trips to Glamis on mine since last rebuild. Getting ready to tear open the top and see what's there. Oh yea, rstaw2_Zs: YOU SOFA KING WE TODD IT.
  4. Some friends and I will be there over T-day weekend and into the following week. What can we expect for crowds at Buttercup and Glamis?
  5. Are all of the teeth accounted for on the rear sprocket? You might not notice a missing tooth if the chain is covering it. Is everything aligned (rear to front sprocket)?
  6. When the new chain was installed was the chain on the top or bottom of the lower roller? Should be on top. If it is on the bottom, it will chew it up and make noise like that.
  7. Just out of curiosity, how old are you? I had the same pain in my right shoulder, right between the collar bone and the outside of the shoulder. At first they thought it was rotator cuff. After several MRI's and Ultrasounds, the doc said it was arthritis. Go figure. I'm only 35. It hurt like hell for about 6 months. Couldn't even sleep. Finally had a couple of cortizone shots in the front of the shoulder. I have about 90% back now but it still hurts every once in a while. By the way, I was carrying some lumber on my shoulder when it started. I don't let it stop me from riding, that's for sure. It actually feels better when I do. Hope you find out it's nothing serious.
  8. Should be: low, mid, and high, in that order.
  9. I had mine on a dyno last Xmas before Glamis. It came in at 61 RWHP. Since then I have removed the K&N Xstreme Filter lid and rejetted. Haven't had it on the dyno, but I think I gained 4-5 HP.
  10. I agree with DUNEDEMON, #00 steel wool and glass cleaner. I have used this combo many times, and it works great.
  11. I have had this problem since I bought mine in 94. Like the others say, it's coolant that gets trapped in the line then finally comes out on your pipes. I rerouted the drain hose so that it dumps on the ground near the swingarm pivot point (no reason to stain chrome pipes). Or you can move it up front under the nose piece. I just add coolant to the res and don't think anything about it. To me, it's just one of those pre-riding checks that I do. If it's low, I add some to it. A small empty dishwashing soap squeeze bottle works great.
  12. Sounds like the idle adjustment needs tweaking. Probably 1/4 to 1/2 turn in should do it (Located under the front of the seat, on the back side of the TORS units)
  13. Metal all the way Definitely getting into the Death Metal groove, but I like a lot of the new metal coming out nowadays. Opeth, Killswitch Engage, Shadows Fall, OLD Slayer, Motorhead, King Diamond/Mercyful Fate, Nevermore, Pantera/Damageplan, OLD Metallica (New Sucks BALLS), Exodus, Fear Factory, Iced Earth, and last but not least... I R O N M A I D E N
  14. I believe it is a 32mm socket and an impact. There is an exact torque setting in the Clymers manual, but I don't know it off the top of my head. I have owned an AMP link. I loved it when I had it on, really kept the rear end on the ground. The only reason I took it off is because I shredded the lower gear. No fault of the link, just me being a dumbass . Some people say that they rob horsepower. I think it does rob a little, but if you have well tuned semi-modded shee, it's not really noticeable. Hope this helps...
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