camatv

neat idear. I think I might whip one out to play with also.

if you buy stock springs they need tested height and spring rate. I have boxes of stocker springs they are all different heights. if you just have to have girly hands then buy all new stock springs. or use the 15% over that most kits come with

I'm going with door number 2

look at my build thread its pretty much all laid out in its entirety what it takes to build and build it right..

good buy right here!!

any updates on this build?? i did buy the setup from NYUK after it got here there was so much bullshit that looked like crap i just put it on the back burner. VW ? plastic blow off valve. pipe sections in the stinger all kinds of differnt sizes. carbs tops held on with zip tyes.. so no i havent gotten it up and running yet.. i DO have a microsquirt and a single 36mm throttle body.. but again it may be fixed, and put together it may not. i had high hopes at one time and now, meh, not so much..

in my opinion charging the transfers and the actual tunnel is what is holding them back that along with the simple single port exhaust.. with a non triple port they can be made to run really good and if done right still have a nice lower end midrange off the pipe

there is no amazing quality to that exhaust shape..

you have early spindles for the big ass front brakes the 87-89? had on them. thats why they wont fit.

yes

so who is going to swing in and pick me up??

no thats what we need more of!!

i have a mostly complete drag bike i'd sell it needs assembled from ground up located in ks

i have a nearly perfect trans will be a fresh modification done to it. 500.00 shipped somewhat used trans but inspected and ok to run. 400.00

and then look at the big time big $$ shops those spread bore using banshee based cases and billet transmissions are pretty one off specialized builds that are prone to destruct.. big power but in my opinion overall a bad design as far as any kind of reliability. no matter what still pretty saweet really

umm i have built many pv cheeto's.. hence the long response posted.. right now i am actually starting to play around with the so called dinosaur trex cylinders have 3 of them now a ???? stroker working on a building a 535 10 mill and going to be doing a 400cc turbo in the next year or 2.. they have a better head design and very strong cylinder but the porting layout is far far from optimal..

need to get the crank welded and checked ut if its more than 6 years old and you actually ride the bike its probably getting a tad loose.. just like anything and any motor build as stated get it all together start the bike jet from there. check plugs for timing and jetting maybe read the long jetting how to if your not to sure what to look for in the "tech " section..? and always always check your squish band clearance when running one of these heads. unless you did a deck height measurement and spec'd a squish height on each cylinder it might be to tight.. i know there will be some call outs on this spec but anything tighter than .052 and your loosing hp.. any band width more than 9.5mm and your hurting the motor.. just look at pics of the tops of domes and you will see the ring of heat that the wider band produces. the piston will tell you how wide the band needs to be.. i have had 4 motors come over from wichita that this was one of the many things wrong with them. im not going to say what shop built them but they have all been jacked up i do know it wasnt MULL. mull has some great products and great service.. running these specs witht he correct dome CC for the fuel and timing ou are going to run will result in a motor that lasts for as long as the other parts hold together. and will run great... of course this is all my opinion from building motors that last and last for over a decade now...

jd check into drop shipping straight from alba.

yea it is i hear burke and the texans's need a spot also i have a place to pull in if i need on the hill they are driving a lot farther if they need it get it to them!

me? let me see where its located

please dont use jsr. i'm in kansas also if you need help.

no overflow tubes..

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Frap-2443-16mm-x-10mm-Yamaha-Suzuki-Ball-Joint-/252347674441?hash=item3ac117ef49:g:GfkAAOSwy5ZXBreG&vxp=mtr&autorefresh=true ?

is this the set on ebay also?

i have told a few how to set up the exhaust with the valve and even then they get scared and dont do it because its not the "norm" i did a 400 pv with a 207 open degree exhaust.. it wouldnt bog with 14 extreme stagger's on it.. the intakes are not too big.. i have heard that some say the super's intakes are too small.. the pv cheeta's also mostly use a lot less jet and can be more efficient in their burn. i personally believe it is the larger intake size and the larger flow draws a better signal through the carb.