bronco91shee

I have been slowly building up a home gym which now includes an exercise bike for cardio I do about 3 days a week and one day a week at the actual gym because of 2 kids. I do not own land to ride on, but plan to get out about every third weekend in the summer to local play area or MX track. So not super serious, but not couch potato either. New house will have land and I;ll be able to get back to riding multiple times a week.

What is the point of the smaller rear tires and wheels? What tire size would you recommend for front and rear as long as I'm looking at tires and wheels. I assume you want a shorter sidewall to keep the bulge down when cornering. And you want smaller diameter for gearing and so you can overpower them to spin when you need, but still hook up when you need? But this would lower the frame height and axle carrier clearance with the ground, which I assume should not be an issue? Also, what air pressure do you recommend? I was running about 10 in the front and about 8 outback trying to hook up on bald tires. SO new tires I would could go abit higher.

Last year I did my first MX race. This year I plan to do more as my free time and bank account allows, so nothing super competitive. However, I know the biggest reason I am slow right now is due to my body, not my quad. So I have been working out more based on what was sore after track days last fall. Just wondering for those of you that are more serious into racing, what is your workout schedule like and what weight machines/exercises/ stretches do you find most useful and how often?

Been riding for 20 years in Michigan and have loved my 20x10x8 turf tamers for normal trails, light mud, light sand. But now they are worn out. This summer was also my first time at my local MX track, loved it so much I joined my first race and will be back for more next summer. I am limited to about $500 in upgrades per season if I will have enough money to actually attend races and minor repairs. Racing only for fun, not chasing points or sponsors. I see most guys for years running ITP holeshots, so I assume thats a great option. But I also see alot of the newer quads stock with radial tires that hook up really well from what Ive ridden on. But i can get brand new turf famers for $75 which leaves me money to buy actual banshee nerf bars(currently using modified 250R to get by) and I need some front wheels cuz I bent those in practice as well as some new goggles and to replace the leaking intake mainifolds. Hence I need multiple things to get back on the track next summer, but I know rear tire quality is key. So what rear tire is the best for just fun at the track, still running stock suspension but a +4 stroker motor. Also, since I need new front wheels because my blue labels are bent and leaking, do I just upgrade to red labels? Or is that a waste of money and I should go straight to beadlocks?

Are the wheels actual beadlock or just look alikes? The last set I had the bolts actually held the rings on from the outside and the tire was pinched behind the ring. These look different, so I wasn't sure if they are real or just a different style.

front shocks still up for grabs? text me at 847-239-0146

Are the 17" ones to fit stock aarms? If so whats the going price for those?

No idea how to do a leak down on a 2-stroke.

Not sure what you mean by pressure test results. I have stopped running it now since it popped out with a new plug. First two times I questioned my install method of a used plug(crushed washer) on a new aluminum head. Thanks for helping

engine-+4mm stroker, mild dune port, FAST head, stock carbs with twist throttle, +4 timing, K/N in box.Fatties. Last summer after stroker rebuild it was running great down a trail and just died. Found ground wire on stator broke off. New stator, and ever since the left side is issues. Runs 20F hotter at head and 40F hotter at exhaust port just idling. Misses alot at part throttle. it also has weak exhaust pulse on left side compared to right through out entire range. Runs great at WOT. Throughout about 10 hours of riding, adjusting, checking, replacing things it has blown the left spark plug out 3 times, good threads in head, new head. new plugs, does not matter. New V4 this weekened, no help. No intake leaks, no cross tube leaks. swapped plugs and wires left to right-no diff Swapped carbs left to right and the miss tends to go away, but still bogs in mid range like needle jet, changed that to all five positions and it did not help. swap carbs back and misfire is back on left side. Of course been through carbs several times. Checked float height and intake air screws, needles. Compression is 128psi left and 130psi right at sea level, which is the same it was after the rebuild so no worries there. Out of ideas. Any one else have some? Thanks in advance

Way to be a jerk. Owned three blasters. they can be unreliable. ID of the hose leaves you screwed when debris happens to get in there or the pump has issues or other types of issues. Thats why I have three oil injection bottles in the trash over the years, to make sure the engine stayed safe.

Last time, I tried to adjust it per the book. Does anyone have a better way to do it? Does it change at all from stock build to all the parts i have added?

Thanks for all the good replies. I will also adjust the screw and move my shifter up. I already moved it up one tooth from stock for my boots, but I can try two teeth. My 4mm is still running stock carbs, so its deff not a race bike, but has more than enough power for everything I do, so I'm guessing a cut trans is not a necessity just yet, but is deff worth looking into.

What does a cut tranny do for me? Eccentric screw, you mean the one in the center of the clutch basket that pushes on the ball? Rider error part, Certainly can be an issue. would putting the stock shift shaft back in help fix this issue? I have tried pulling up on the shifter until it phsyically stops while riding, thinking make the modified shift shaft required a longer pull to engage the next gear. Thank you for your thoughts

Short story.... 97shee that wiped out a crank. Hotrod 4mm stroker+ ported cylinders to match with the basic rebuild. While I was in there I got the FAST Racing clutch pack/springs, modded shift star, modified shift shaft/spring, clutch perch, clutch cable, recommended trans oil, and other basics while in there. Set the clutch rod slightly outboard of the mark on the crankcase per FAST. I bought everything exactly how they told me, because I knew they had good experience on banshees and I wanted a one time quality build. Never had shift problems prior to rebuild. Now only if I let RPM's drop between the first three gears will it shift(basically the same way I used to shift with no clutch prior to rebuild). 5th and 6th it just will not do even rolling down backside of a dune with no load. With the engine off, it will run through the gears just fine as I roll it, so I know its not a shift fork or hard part. It really just feels like the clutch is staying engaged I found no concerns with the "clutch rod" that passes through the motor. No issues with the "pivot Rod" that attaches the cable to the "clutch rod" and no issues with the ball on the end of the "clutch rod". The basket had minor wear where the clutch plates ride, so that is the only clutch part I did not replace. Does anybody have any ideas if I did something wrong, missed something, need to "upgrade" another part to match the other "non-oem" parts I installed? I have been tinkering for a year with no ideas, and the guys at FAST are trying to help, but its just to the point where they need the bike to diagnose anymore than they already have, but they are several states away so that is not an option. Thanks for any input you all have