PassionRE

Thats not chrome, it's industrial Nickel , inside and out. Industrial engine manufacturers plate their crankshafts and then re-machine the crankshaft with this stuff. Can be buffed repeatedly to bring back to original luster, wont flake, wont rust ever......Jim

Unless you have a serious machined surface problem, try this. 1) clean everything up perfectly 2) ck all surfaces with a straight edge. 3) loosen all 8 base nuts and re-tighten hand tight only. 4) Install head with new orings, if you want to go anal, apply Permatex Ultra-Black to the orings(if the head is machined properly, you wont need the Permatex)) 5) torque head evenly with a torque wrench. 6) re-tighten base nuts evenly. This will make up for slight decking problems. The base gasket is alot more forgiving than the head shell is....Jim

Great Idea! All profit proceeds from the sales of THIS shirt go to you first. At least until we get your bike sanatized. Everbody else, get in line.

Well , you better bring your hammer if you think you need it.

Gary and I work together to offer engine/pipe packages for any 2 cycle format. They are all custom matched for each particular engine and /or racing enviroment. On engines that I am not building, we require an accurate port map of the engine format in order to match pipe resonance and efficiency rpm when possible. If not possible, upon crashing data on the port maps, I will offer port correction services where needed for balanced resonance and transfer/ex. port eff. rpm matching. The KX-85 vid is fitted with a custom Sniper down pipe, typically a short track style fit, not sure how well that would work in MX. It was matched to my port work to make peak HP at 13800 RPM. We dont have access for every frame configuration that we design for, so we offer multi- piece partially fabbed kits for the customer to do final orientation for proper fit to their application. We assemble the pipe as much as possible, leaving a few seams open for customers to fine adjust desired upswing, clearance, etc. If interested in this type of service for ANY 2 cycle engine just email me at passionengines@yahoo.com ....Jim

Sounds like alot of extra work, your 10mill T-Rex can be built to run with any Cub.

Nothing weird at all....read J-Madds post a little closer. "Come on more violently, more tire spin". This would be indicative of MORE power. Tire spin= slower 60ft. times, 2 more MPH with basicly same ET and slower 60 ft times= better overall engine tune and not enough tire...Jim

Your even more mis-informed than I would have guessed

Simular to a dremel sanding disc...just more industrial..used mainly with air powered die-grinders. Yes, you will have to sand the inside of your pipe flanges...easier than messing with the cylinder.

I've noticed the same thing. After building Magettshee's engine he was having problems getting his Snipers to slide on. Luckily, he was a local guy so I went to help. We couldn't even get a well worn set of CPI"S to slide over his Serval flanges. The engine was already installed in the frame, so I had to take a cartridge roll to the inside of the Snipers to get them to slide on. Not sure if they are all the Servals are this way, but Ive seen it more than once.....Jim

No Shit!.. too many good threads on this site get trashed out with BS

Great points Tyler,.....Im just glad I didn't buy into the "cheap stroker crank" bandwagon...Ive been warning customers for months about all these bargain cranks floating around. Just another good example of "guessing" going on in the Hi-perf Banshee world, this time at the manufacturers level among other sources. Ultimately the manufacturer is at fault...but it's driven by the diabolical save a buck at any cost philosopy of consumers., not to mention the "lets sell the bottom clear out of the market "retailers......I hope the level 1 distributors choke on em'. Everyone has already forgotten about the $650.00 we used to have to pay for Hot Rods 4mill long rod cranks of yesteryear. I sell them currently for $425.00 and they dont move that well on call in orders...I wonder why???...." I can get a pot metal connecting rod version cheaper"...thats why. I havn't bought or sold a single one of these Mickey Mouse cranks, I like my meat loaf a certain way too, why change up when what works actually exists.....why guess at it when the good stuff has already been proven and is available at a great price, especially on 4mills. Whats worse is that the "anything over 4 mill "crank options are big time limited. Good luck on a Twister...if you can afford to wait a lifetime to get it, do so...its by far the best crank available. I've seen at least 10 Crankworks cranks fly apart over the past two years due to incorrect manufacturer interference fit issues. The end result of this either bad design, or quality control , whichever it might be, is a crank that wont hold true long enough to even put a weld on it....so that option is a gamble as far as Im concerned,....I wont use them....ever. So, all you non "pro" builders can can relax, assembly and tuning isn't the issue... Where the 29L/R's are concerned, and others too I suspect, it's the "guessing" metalurgy of the " look how much money I saved" rods...period. Just dont write off the Tiawan guys quite yet...as a rule, their shit is top-knotch..period....has anyone verified these butter rods are even legitimately made in Taiwan?..I suspect China instead...Jim

Yea, I don't suffer from ownership bias

DM is a far better platform to start with for a full tilt comp drag engine...It will however need extensive workover for the real deal...Jim

Your torque numbers should be a little higher than this engine...peak hp should nearly the same.

Yea, I know, thats why I gave the footnote..Its all I had on hand...but the HP and Tq. speak for itself

heres a copy of the GAS dyno sheet 421 Cub Sniper inframe vs. Shearer OOF drag pipe It is based on ground speed instead of RPM...its all I have on hand at the moment .Dyno operator killed the test early after peak HP....both pipes have better over-rev than what the chart would indicate

Incorrect, youll have to know the angle of the crown on the pistons your using and then base the dome angle offset from that..Jim

If your running gas I would highly suggest 12p extreme tripple buff on10- 12 over. If you going to run methanol...14p extreme triple buff with a 10-12 over. Hauler paddles will fold over bigtime on a good running 421...Jim

Good point...thats why peak HP only design concepts are going to be found lacking by someone with different circumstances. Your much better off concentrating on max tq....you can always add gear to make up for over-rev and rpm....Jim

Yes, Cody a lock-up would be needed on a Passion Cub. If your not wanting to run lock-up and want more power, you might have to consider just a few more plates in the clutch...but that gets expensive. PM Maggetshee,,,I built him a 90ish horse Serval motor on gas last year....see how his clutch is holding up...might be a good option. I can build it to come on smooth instead of ballistic...will help clutch life. As for a pump gas cub or serval.?..it will still make big power ....just alot later in the rpm range. In deep sand , pump gas Cubs are just doggy as hell on the bottom end..Jim

Cody, depends on the Cub and whats done. Those cylinders you have in spot on tune will outrun a stock Cub(and some built ones too). My Cub R&D Program has produced some truely sick 421's. Im going to start supplying a advisory sheet with them from now on that might help. Basicly you should treat my newest 421's like you would a high powered gun. " Be carefull where you point it, and if you pull the trigger, you better mean it!."...Jim