PassionRE

Finally getting the material together for my webpage. Anyone with a Passion engine interested in having your bike pic and or review of your engine on my page, please send it to me and you will be a permanant part of PassionRacingEngines.com. Please send to PassionRE@cox.net...Jim Smart

Jinx, if you run THOSE cylinders, I imagine an all out bitch slap coming my way from Jack...Jim

12 port is 2 additional finger ports and 2 additional window ports in the intake transfer areas. 12 port kit with crank, pistons, plate , portingand bore job runs $1215.00+shipping..Jim

Yeah, you better plan on riding your ass off Jack, I know of at least 2 really fast motors that are going to be there besides you...is Jeremy going to make it?...Jim

Yes, I can port your Blaster if your interested...give me a PM...Jim

Im working on having these made....once I get them, everyone with one of my engines will get stickers...Jim

I liked the basic "in your face, welcome to the jungle" design myself as well...just wanted your opinions. Anybody have a good source to make em? Ive been running into trouble with the four color thing, might have to drop the yellow in the flames. If anybody has a possible source to make them let me know....Thanks in advance...Jim

What do you think guys?..... a keeper or not?....Jim

The "Fatty" pipe isnt really what I would consider a "dog" on that motor. They come on later and the band is narrower on Fatty's. But honestly, what I would consider to be probably the fastest +4 Ive built is running on Fatty's. The CPI's come on earlier and have more grunt ,but in all out top-end, the Fatty's are more than adequate.... sounds strange, but thats what Ive personally noticed....Jim

Good move Boony...Dell is a good machine but parts and services are harder to come by than going with a generic system such as HP or custom units...Jim

Its quite possible your right about your pipes but if its noticably rich to the ear in the mid, I would go there first and see what happens. According to your last chart, the spacers created lag if anything but thats not saying they will on this engine. Different pipes, carbs, reeds etc. will all respond differently with each other and there really isnt a bible to go by especially when you throw porting into the equation. Seems you are going in the right direction though and have the tools to maximize your set-up...keep up the good work...Jim

MMMMMMMMM..first guess, needles. If you have them try a thinner needle, your engine may be leaning out in the mid and then recovering. If your running the stock airbox, you might try longer runners between the box and carbs. I reccomend 3.5 inch runners on the back of my engines and usually dont have to change the needles on PJ34's. BUT, you will have to move the box back to run it this way..Ive had great luck with it and hesitation is a rare complaint....Jim

Banchetta that translates into ex. timing opening at 82 degrees ATDC, transfer opening at 117 degees ATDC, and 126 degrees transfer duration. A great running engine that still has a potential of an extra 15 hp if you desire....Jim

Your probably going to notice more gains with the bigger carbs on mid to high rpm in the dirt more than on the dyno. The load factor is going to make a big difference on how well those bigger carbs are feeding the intakes unless ofcourse the intakes are near stock in size. Torque is something I havn't had trouble in getting out of +4's, but my set-up is completely different than what your running. Did you get my last post?...your lack of torque is almost certainly port timing...Jim

Banchetta, in the term "decking the cylinder" are you referring to lowering the cylinder itself or just referring to the spacer on the top? Although the options are endless in setting up a +4, it has been my experience that they love transfer duration and if you give it enough of it, you can go with some pretty wild exhaust durations as well and still have killer bottom end and only give up a few hundred rpm on the big end compared to a heavily ported 350 crank motor.. Even with the loss of peak rpm, the motor will still pull much harder and longer even with tall gears so your top-end speed is still WAY improved over a radical ported 350 crank and still have killer bottom end. If your goal was low -end, and I'm just assuming that it is, it might be that your engine is wanting more transfer duration depending on how you "decked" it. If you give it enough transfer duration, 200 degrees ex. duration is not excessive and still have major grunt...Jim

What porting style, stroke compensation, and crank did you go with?....Jim

They had Mark III's and IV's, most were the same except for ignition and charging systems. H2's were considered "Widow Makers" because they were fast and tended to go into speed wobbles at abaout 125 and wouldnt come out of it. They were totally plaugued with electrical problems and the crank recievers were weak and tended to go through cranks quite often...I rebuilt 100's of those cranks in the early eighty's when I worked in the Largest Kawasaki dealership in the world at the time. Although a relic now, they are worth a ton of money in original condition and I wish I had a few around just to cruise around on...Jim

Kawa triples were H2-750cc ,H1-500cc ,S3-350cc ,and KH-400cc....Jim

Steve, High 70's maybe more with around 45-46 ft lbs maybe more because of thos ex. specs I went over with you....the good news....more where that came from with a few alterations we already talked about....Jim

Ducman ..Sorry, misread the post..those specs are for +4stroker. Standard stroke long rod displacements are the same as stock cranks. He threw me off with the "Wiseco Hot Rods" verbage...my mind went straight to stroker long rods...Jim

370cc on stock bore up to 397cc on 66mm bore.....Jim

Using a spacer plate on top of the cylinder is a disaster waiting to happen. I use thicker base gaskets under the cylinder to maintain the use of off the shelf domes. Not only does this keep the piston top within the safety of the liners and maintain forced convection cooling charecteristics of a stock engine, it also enhances the port timing for a more performance oriented engine. If real performance is your game though, additional port configuring is needed to tap in to the full potential of a +4 engine...Jim

Yes that crank will drop right in your engine. As for long or short rod you can run either as long as you use the proper pistons on the long rod version (795 series Wiseco's)...Jim

Dave, did you recalculate the dome specs for those "DD" big bore jugs?...thats the same as a turbo with nitrous if Im not mistaken...Jim

2 cycle outboards are built that way and work great. I was thinking of a drop in replacement crank for Banshees with press fit splines. A billet crank with 2 piece rods would require tunneling the cases for clearance...Jim