PassionRE

CDW, you should spend a little more time setting up the frame. This swappin' places shit with a 535 Cheetah isn't going to get it...LMAO..good job ...Jim

well gee, is it 33s, 34s or 35s?? ive heard all 3. and if 33s are the best why did i buy 35s?? I was asked if the 28 flats were good enough and I responded that he needed at least a 33mm carb. 33-35mm carbs are reccomended on these motors depending on which port style and use of the motor. This isnt a drag motor he is referring to...Jim

David, when you get a chance give me a ring, I think I have a pretty easy fix for this using your existing design....Jim

Not to mention the fact that if your stroker was set-up with the plate in the beginning, those cylinders can still be used on a 350 crank at a later date, or converted to a base gasket and custom domes(mods needed to retain performance)...but the options are still there...not so in a stroker designed around a base gasket initially if modest transfer durations are needed....Jim

I think XT is referring to special cut domes. NOSS has 2 different domes, regular and special. The specials have a more blended radius on the inner edges of the squish band. Both domes are set up pretty much the same for squish clearance and can be used on 350 cranks and +4 stroker motors with a .080" stroker plate. "Custom" domes are usually cut for stroker motors using a normal base gasket only. In that case ,the extra clearance is provided in the dome itself to clear the additional stroke. Also custom can refer to a different type of dome such as "alky" domes....Jim

I recieve information from almost everyone with these motors in different areas of the country, and world for that matter, where jetting is concerned and unanimously(sp) it takes alot of trial and error to get it right. Compound that with elevation, carb choice, pipes, reeds, temperature differential, filter set-up, compression ratios, ignition timing and advance curves it makes it impossible to tell any one person what exactly they need to run. But here are a few baselines. 34PJ 165-180 mains 48-55 pilots....33pwk 55-65 pilots 160-175 mains 35pwk 50-65 pilots 160-175 mains. I personally have not had to change needles or cut-aways for proper jetting but know builders who have had to on 35pwks. 34pj's dont idle very well, but seem to be easier to jet in on the mid-range. 33pwks seem to be the easietst of the pwk's to jet but do decrease all out top-end over a 35pwk. Generally I reccomend 2 inch tubes to the airbox with a single filter to insure straighter air flow and less turbulence in mid-range transition although I know alot of you prefer the individual filters. I have personally experienced mid-range transition problems with individual filters for over 25 years...personally, I dont care for them. On drag engines, I will accept them and usually reccomend them in those applications because they do actually make a little more HP on the top-end. For trail motors and short-track engines, I dont care for them. On local engines like pro-quads bike, we run the 2 inch couplers with the front piece of the box only with a NOSS adaptor plate and single K&N. HIs bike will roll-on in 5th out of the turn and lift the wheels down the straight until sixth with 16/39 gearing at 75+ mph, so Im pretty sure there's no mid bog going on. Although you would have to check this yourself because theres no way in hell your getting this old man to check if for you. Also, I might add that this engine makes a tremendous amount of low-end power(maybe too much) and after it goes through that stage the pipe starts hitting. Its possible that the transition is alot more noticable than it might be on other builders stroker motors. Ive helped several people trying to enhance the bottom end of their strokers built by others with almost the exact specs Im running. Anyone that has eye-balled a set of these cylinders notices that my transfer lay-out is totally different than what you'll see on other builders stroker motors, and thats where that bottom end is coming from, stroking alone isnt going to do that. Call me old school, but my best guess for mid-range transition bog is the individual filters, and if it holds true to form(as Ive noticed for a long time)...its hard to deal with....Jim

Glad you like the engine Steve....it is a really good blend of torque and speed. Saw the pics of your bike on your other thread and have to hand it to you, the bike looks awesome...good job my friend....Jim

The triple exhaust ports are not based on the same princaple as my 12 ported intakes. They serve two entirely different needs or wants. Triple exhausts are for increased Time/Area calculations with lower exhaust ports. 12 ports are strictly intake enhancement where atomization is concerned. They dont replace each other. The reason I dont do triple exhausts is because it simply isn't neccessary, and its a difficult operation to do properly and safely. With the correctly shaped exhaust ports I can manipulate T/A and blowdown T/A specs wherever I want and still not need the triples. Even with the huge transfers on my stroker motors, I can build the exhaust port to ratio out correctly and save me time, and my customers money....Jim

When jetted in perfectly the 12 port stroker will make excellent bottom end and throttle response along with a very hard pull through upper rpm ranges. This engine piped closely produces a very flat torque curve from around 6000 through 9300 rpm and pulls to 10k before the pipes drop off. It also pulls tall gears easily with more top-end than most are really comfortable with. As for the flow bench, Passion is a very young company and gathering tooling currently to offer more product choices in the near future. Currently I am using the most productive method of designing engines available along with 25 years experience. I simply measure the angle of deflection of the roost bouncing off the upper one third of the helmets of the guys trying to catch one on a 1/2 mile shortrack...Jim

Everything Maxima makes is top knotch. Super M is good, if your engine is very high output, 927 all the way... just rememer to shut off the gas and let the carbs run dry when done for the day, and always shake you gas cans before re-fueling on the 927...Jim

With t-5s to hit 120 you will need stock tires and gearing, boost bottle, 5000 feet of altitude ,and push it out the back of a C-5 and watch if fall to the earth....Jim

NO, Im definately not saying that. I am saying if the Kawasaki finger ports, or Honda 250R motors for that matter, were set up like the 12 port they would be flowing much better than they are. Remember, the Kawasaki and Honda motors have much larger reed assemblies and could be made to flow alot more than a Banshee cylinder, even my 12 ports. I was mainly referring to the verticle ports on the Kawasaki cylinders being a different philosopy entirely. Most added boost(finger) ports added to banshee cylinders flow directly into the transfer updraft bridge causing major inlet turbelence, Ive solved that problem. Not only did it solve that particular situation it also created positive effects on inlet flow of gases coming in from the main intake ports and also positive effects of updraft gases in the rear transfers. Anyone with a set of my 12 ports knows how I did it...Jim

If I remember correctly the Kawasaki ports he's talking about are verticle from the cases to the reed areas along with another set of ports simular to my 12 port but not exactly the same and more restrictive than the 12 port....that set-up is actually based on crank volume instead of desired turbuelance of internal gases....Jim

Chris, try the needles I suggested in the "Jetting the Passion Stroker" thread in the jetting forum. I am working on a jig to safely do my case updraft ramp upgrades and hopefully before spring I will be doing those again. Other than that, over-ride tranny, PVL , lock up clutch, alcohol, and alky domes will be needed to extract everything you currently have. Putting it to the ground will be your next problem....JIm

cjm...this is a 350 motor Im referring to, not a stroker. And when I say "semi-unreliable"...believe it, definately not a motor for the faint of heart or budget concious...its going to be very expensive and maintenance intense....otherwise known as a potential time-bomb, only start it for the starting line type of engine, for you may only get a few passes out of it.....Jim

Screamin...the only report I recieved back on tweeked 350 motors is a quasi-drag port 12 port on 33 keihins, suicide pipes on gas pushing 78 hp and 41 ft. lbs. Keep in mind that all dyno's read different...tuning is what they do best. Regardless...over the next few months I will be finished developing my real drag motor. I really didnt want to get into the super radical semi-unreliable stuff, but hey, sometimes I feel like making a point....Jim

Glad you like it Brian!...that tiller situation is probably a good thing in disguise, otherwise you and others would be looping those strokers constantly. Honestly, from an old man perspective, you would have to be half crazy to even want to hit 5th gear with anything from a 16 or up on the counter....Jim

LOCO...contact Sudco http://www.sudco.com/ and order a set of part # 017-049 needles otherwise known as EGJ tapered needles for the PWK 35.that is one taper angle richer(1/4 to 3/4 throttle), and one shank size richer(1/8-1/2 throttle) richer. If you feel your jetting is rich enough at 1/8-1/2 throttle order part # 017-046( EGK)..tell them your carbs currently have 48-DGK needles in case they get confused...Jim

Kick Ass tune!--accoustic version is the bomb shizzle. "Ramble On"...Led Zep

Yeah they do shoot flames out like on albas website, until you break the sound barrier, and then the flames just turn into a vapor trail...Jim

If its simply a long rod crank, its 5mm not 4...are you positive its not a stroker crank? Either way, run Wiseco's 795 series pistons, not blaster pistons, and DONT deck either the top or bottom of the cylinder. Terminology wise, a 4mm long rod IS a stroker crank...Jim

Make sure you unhook the Tors system completely from the system

The Wiseco pro-lite is hard to beat for reliability. Its also common for cylinders not to clean up on .010" over bores. you will need Wiseco part # 513MO6475 if it WILL clean up at an additional .010" overbore. You will need part # 513MO6500 if it wont(.020") over where you bore is currently...Jim