PassionRE

LMAO. ...that is some funny shit...made my day..you guys are insane...15000 grand?

Certain types of sealers (mainly mated surface type sealers) such as Kawasaki bond, Yamabond, and Honda Bond used for case halve sealing, will cause the o-rings to become brittle much faster than no sealer at all. Normal types of silicone gasket maker dont do this but can be a pain to clean up upon reassembly. If you have sealing problems that keep coming back, use Threebond 1211, but in most cases your better off just using grease by itself.....Jim

mild port 28-33pwk's, moderate to high end port 34-35's, stock bore will put you at 370cc choose pipes wisely based on your port style....Jim

Fresh bore and hone and proper chamfering with pro-lites, rings,pins,clips, factory Yamaha base gaskets, and cool head oring kit for $244.00 at http://passionracingengines.com/

Rockets, CPI's and Sheerer pipes are all fine pipes. Each of these pipes will react differently on different port styles but Sheerers tend to perform best on high end high rpm port designs from what Ive seen....they simply just pull alot further with nearly the same low-mid characteristics on my upper mid to high rpm engine designs. If your Cheetah is set up for upper mid to high range power preference, Sheerer all the way. PM me if you need a set, $450.00 chrome with silencers.....Jim

On a mild 350 port, a set of 33pwk's would more than enough carb, and in most cases will have crisper throttle response than either the 34's or 35's. The 33's will flow enough for even semi-radical port styles Dont make the mistake of over-carbing your engine......Jim

Either the clutch ball bearing fell out, or the clutch outer pressure plate is not engaged properly to the inner hub....it wont mesh in just any position.....Jim

Arrow torwards exhaust, numbers and letters on rings up, and wrist pin clip gaps pointed straight down....Jim

Smoking excessivly on the right pipe is almost certainly a right hand crank seal. If you dont have access to a leak down tester,drain the trans fluid and put in ATF momentarely and start up...if it gets worse...BINGO

Every engine react differently to timing adjustments depending on a multitude of variables. For fine tuning of timing adjustments on modded motors, a good guide is to set the timing until the soot on the center electrode climbs withing a few thousanths of the tip of the center electrode.The easiest way to check this is to advance the timing until the soot drops down on the electrode and then slowly retard the timing until the soot climbs within a few thousanths of the tip...you really need a good magnifying glass to see it clearly.....Jim

Thanks for the comments guys and girls.....its just a bad deal anyway you look at it. I just love street bikes and still have a couple of old RD's I mess with. I should have been dead about 3 times that I can think of, but by the grace of God I was able to pull out of the situations. Ive broken both legs, both arms, Left collar bone, fingers and have had road rash over 50 percent of my body trying to dodge those idiots over the years, and it still hasnt kept me from riding them. Just be carefull when your out there on the streets and like someone in another post said, just ride like every one of those idiots is trying to snuff you out....thanks again...Jim

Had a close friend running down the highway last night on his 600 Honda at the speed limit when he crashed into a stalled car on the roadway. It appears some guys were towing a SUV with a tow strap when it broke and left the car on the roadway momentarely with no lights or markers on. Apparently James(my friend) didnt notice it or the lighting was bad...not really sure, but he hit it square on and died instantly.. After he hit the SUV, the guys towing the damn thing tried to run away but bystanders got the tag number and they were arrested later that night. I'm not preaching, Ive been a biker for over 35 years, but just sit and imagine what his last thoughts were and keep it in mind next time your blasting around on your street bikes...Jim

.00001..? thats like 1/2 the thickness of air isn't it? j/k...must be nice!

If your cylinders are ported the same as what you mentioned running 6's and everything else is the same, Id start by looking at either your ignition, or possible sheered,woodruff key, cracked reeds possibly. Is everything else the same?...lock-up, over-ride etc?

Did your builder give you any specs on the porting he did...one mans drag port is another mans chainsaw....Jim

Yeah, with a good dial bore gauge its a piece of cake....you could drive yourself crazy with a telscoping gauge and micrometer though...Jim

Looks great Steve....keep an eye on that right hand carb fuel line though. Ive started flipping those T's the other way so that line doesnt pinch down over time...Ive lost a couple of RH cylinders because of that when the carb got starved for fuel....Jim

Oh sorry, I had .020 on the brain , 2.5595 is where I set them up at.

It could be a nats ass off but it should read 2.536 on the skirt but even that can be off depending on where exactly you measure. They are so close to each other compared to the old days that its pretty safe to say they are what they say they are. I set .040 over bores up at 2.5395" finished hone measurement....Jim

Racing, especially drag racing, is ALWAYS about traction, unless your talking Bonneville Salt Flats land speed record runs. Unfortunately, dirt drags are held in guess what, dirt. Some set-ups work better than others. And traction is not just a tire, swing-arm combo either. Type specific tractable power will win every time. In this case, broad smooth power, good hook, and a decent rider proved the point.

No offense taken, my main point is that in certain circumstances, HP isnt what wins races. I see it time and time again on 1/2 mile short tracks with bikes set up for exactly that type of racing. The amount of times Ive seen mid 70's HP 12 port bikes outrun 95 horse Cheetahs is growing by the day. Granted, his suspension was working better but he was riding a pump gas bike....the very bottom HP output stroker I offer...trail port basicly

WHOOP WHOOP Reminds me of an ancient Japanese proverb........ "Man who worships dyno sheets can fall victim to ass handing by engine that harnesses itself better to the the earth we walk upon"

Bingo!...classic detonation meltdown. Look at the melted material on the exhaust bridges. Also looks like the intake sides of the piston were trying to stick as well. Either lean mixture,air leak , clogged jet caused this. 220 lbs compression didnt help things either. Check the carbs, gaskets and drop the compression to something more reasonable...it might hit harder on the bottom with that much compression but it is almost certainly played a part in this and is probably slowing you down on top-end.....Jim

I detected brilliance in you opinion tune_girl