PassionRE

Had a great time while it lasted! We'll be beefing up our frame for next year for sure. A ton of fast bikes showed up this year. Met Cam(Redline), Green, and others as well....all great guys...look forward to next year...Jim

Johnny Curry on his Passion/Sniper RZ/DM600 (gas)...Event TOP TIME ! Brandon Hager on his Passion/Sniper yz-85(gas)...class winner! First runs for both bikes...congrats, look forward to the nationals...Jim

A friend contacted me about this post and felt I should reply to it. First and foremost, Ken, I deeply apologize about the wait time on your engine. I also apologize about returned emails etc., for I have just been overwhelmed with phone calls and builds this season. It is by far the busiest season I've had in 15 years, although this fact has nothing to do with the turn-around time on this particular build. 　 　 　 What is truely pathetic, is that the crankshaft that was supplied with your 535 kit that you purchased from another source, was fitted with Chinese rods that would not hold up to the level of power of that kit in its purchased form, not to mention to the level of tune you contracted me to modify it to. The good news is that supposedly the rods I've been waiting on for your build have been released off of backorder...I should be recieving them soon and then I can wrap this build up. If it is any concelation, I will give you these rods for free for your inconvenience and suffering. Your kit supplier should have done the same thing as soon as it was pointed out to them. Rest assure, your 535 will be a dominant force to be delt with....that is a certainty. 　 　 To any of my other customers that are still waiting on their builds, I appolgize for the wait as well, it will be worth the wait. I do not do wham-bam "here ya' go " engine builds. I dont pump out loads of work for instant cash satisfaction... there are multitudes of builders that can satisfy that nich in the market. If your looking for 2 week turn-arounds, some version of Wham-Bam Inc.is always available to supply you with that level of mediocrity. That fact in itself is why I'm so overloaded...if you want the real deal, I will be happy to build it for you. 　 I thank everyone for their support over the years...Jim Smart

You mentioned Sniper first SlyStalker. If your going to continue your mindless drive- by verbage, expect cold hard facts back in your face. RDZ runs, and sells Sniper Inframes....I doubt he's insulted....just a guess.

Rob's logo...our pipe.

Yeah, Rob is smart enough to recognize THE inframe of choice.

Yeah, and he has great taste in inframes too!

Why not, the rings are obviously in great condition, you can tell that by the minimal blowby. If you slight hone, they will just lap themselves a tad and carry on in the same manner as before. The condition of the piston verifies that their is no symetrical inconsistancy..they are as good as new(-.0002") in overall diameter perhaps, you can have that much inconsistancy between 2 different sets of "new" rings...Jim

Slight hone John... I would be willing to bet that if the intake skirt looks like that at 10 hours on a gas engine, their will be slight verticle markings in the bore. In almost every case, cylinders should be slightly honed and cleaned well everytime you teardown.. did you notice, I didn't say re-ring, that should tell you I didnt think it was wasted, it just needs re-grouping, the moly coating and "dry" apearance speaks for itself..Jim

Ok, first of all, it looks like your bore is pretty straight, and rings were doing their job due to minimum ring blowby on piston...looks good. Piston is very clean for 10 hours on gas, this means the oil is either very clean burning, or you may be washing due to slightly over-rich, or a over octaned condition ( if your domes are falling between 15 and 30 m/s sq. velocity, low sv's can look like this as well). The WSM coating on the skirts is a little more worn than it should be with this amount of time on the pistons, and it appears(in the picture anyway) that the pistons have no glossy appearance on the crown or skirts...not good. Lean mixtures can cause no gloss on the crown, but their is no gloss on the skirts, or sign of chalking on the crown.. so, I say its not lean. Instead, I lean torwards a clean burning oil (possibly slightly washed) wiith minimal stiction characteristics..unless its one of these 60-100-1 ratio oils. My Advice...hone, clean well, skotchbrite piston skirts slightly, and change oils. 927 Maxima at 32-1 will have a little more ash on the crown(no biggy,but it's stiction and glossy appearance are much better ,even at leaner fuel settings, and its bearing protection is second to NONE. This observation explains the loss of molybdium coating on the skirts...if its wearing the coating faster than normal, it's wearing everything else at a faster rate than a high end lubricant would...Jim

What cylinder format,what oil, and fuel?....did you clean pistons with cleaner before the picture was taken?..Jim

That would be for duration only.If you want to know if it was specifically set up for a 4mill, the first thing to look at would be if the transfer/ex port floors to see if they are set near 56.25mm from the head gasket surface. The durations can vary a lot depending on who did it and what their goals were..Jim

Yeah, it helps if you have some shade or not be in direct sunlight when checking spark on PVL's..you have to kick the engine over pretty fast too.

If you have a kill switch or button installed...remove it and re-check. Also check the air gap on the stator and flywheel. Should be the thickness of a piece of masking tape. In many cases, I've had to modify the screws for extra clearance on the pick-ups in order to get proper clearance around the entire flywheel due to the holes being drilled slightly off on the stator plate(common problem). If you are using a single kill button, you will have to install diodes on both kill wires going to the coils. If you are still losing spark on BOTH holes after all of this,,,your stator coils, or magnets are weak.. it would be rare that both ignition coils would fail at the same time. Install an additional ground wire from the engine case to the coil mountings under the tank for good measure. It is CRITICAL that you never kick over the engine unless the plugs or caps are grounded to the engine. You can blow your stator easily if they are not grounded....Jim