toolman

I took my stator cover off to show a guy my modded fly wheel and the thing is all rusty full of dryed mud.I do not know how it even ran. It has the factory rubber seal. So does any one have this problem and how do you correct it. Just thinking and need to check where the wires come in for the stator maybe it is not sealed good. Thanks Tim

Do a search in the jetting forum for 2 into 1 tons of information. I just figured it out.

Sorry I was searching the type of carb (nothing came up) search 2 into 1 and found what I needed tons of info. Thanks Tim

Shit I guess no one runs or has run anything like this. I'm asking the same question in a different thread and did a search also but nothing. When I fire mine up I will let you know what I'm trying. Probably next week, I'm waiting on a water pump impeller. Tim

You need to check for out of round and taper also not just overall size. Time and money spent now will save you later.

I have run 170psi on pump gas(93) for several years no issues. But i keep breaking second gear? As matter a fact I have to tear it apart now to find out what's wrong make a popping noise in second.

Ok I put togather a new engine stock stroke fresh bore wiseco prolites cool head 19cc domes FMF fatties Plus 4 timing and a single 33pwk. Where do I start with the jetting. I have 3 needles eej eek dgk and mains from 175 to 195 and a 45 and 48 pilot. I run a single lectron but do not have any experience with this carb. Elevation 500 feet above sea level Thanks Tim

Figured it out about 2.5" studs threaded about 3/4 of an inch work and the manual suggest red loctite.I do not like the red stuff you usally can not get back apart. The holes where the studs go are not drill into the water jacket like I thought so no need for sealer on the threads. Hope this may help in the future. Tim

First Thanks It is a Pro Design A top ( no recesses for the nuts) a shell and domes. I order new orings from one of the sponsors and there are the little orings that go in the center or on the shell. The stud that came with it are 8 pieces just over 66 mm long and 2 that are 71.5 mm long and 21mm threaded on both ends. With the studs threaded into the cylinders and the shell and top on it the stud sticks up to far for me with a washer and nut on its about 3/8 of an inch of threads showing. I'm going to take them out and put them in the lathe and cut them off. I was just trying to find out if they are the right ones or did the owner send me some he bought or had laying around maybe he could not get them out who know's for sure. The other question do I need to put sealant on the threads where they go into the cylinders. I'll look in my manual and see if the stock studs need sealer. Thanks Tim

Every part for this motor was bought from a HQ member. I can not afford to buy new stuff all the time. Now can anyone answer my question. I thought this forum was a place to get information and give information not bash people on what they have or don't have. Thanks

All of the stud are long enough. I just think they are to long even with the nut and washer on top there is still about 3/8 of an inch sticking out it looks like shit. Some of us have to build on a budget some we buy what we can get$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ Thanks

I bought a used cool head for a new motor. Put it togather today ( stock stroke fresh 65.5mm bore and new Wseco prolites trued and welded crank plus 4 timing modded shift star and shaft) Now for my question the studs that came with the head seem to long i ran them down in the cylinders where the threads are even witht he top of the cylinder put the head on and the studs stick out about 3/4 of an inch so does any one knows what the lenght should be. 2stud are longer I think they go in the front of the cylinder and the shorter ones for the rest. Should I put any type of sealant on the threads. Thanks Tim

Are the v force reeds for sale or just a pic to show whats in the motor?

A pilot bearing puller from a parts store or harbour freight or break it apart and pull it out in pieces. I would freeze the new one over night and it should go right in with a little presure.

PM Sent

Auto parts stores have drain plugs that are oversized and self tapping. Not saying anthing bad but you would not believe the people that change there own oil and strip the plug out. They come in many oversizes I have fix several i have actually have peolpe take the pan off and bring it to me wanting it welded and drill and tapped.

Most cheap meters are auto ranging and will not read down low on the set scale so you need a meter you can set to the lower R1 scale. A meter that says RK1 is up to 1000 ohms but probably will not read down to less than 100 ohms. In a nut shell auto ranging meters are a pain in the ass.

Can you say mud!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1 up to your a$$

No You have to split the cases. Get a manual!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

2003limited banshee How is it running ? When you use a degree wheel do you use base gaskets? If not how do you compensate for the difference?

castor 927 32:1 pay me now for oil or pay me later for a top end maybe even a crank!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I have ran it for years not one problem. Love the smell!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Junk!!!!!!!!!! LOL sorry couldn't resist

Nothing special. i just can't remember the bore size it has been a while. I have not taken it apart and wanted the gaskets so i could put it right back togather. They told me cometic you have to have the bore size and they also sold versa and they did not require a bore size. I wanted the cometic because i have had good luck with them and cheaper than OEM.

I have a trans problem and need new top end gasket went to order them and they need to know the bore size. I can not remember the size do i really need to tell them the bore size. thanks

Not sure if are you talking about the same thing . I did a post last week I was told to notch the top of my new pistons to match the port openings on the cylinders. I'm not going to do it but I had never heard any thing like this here. They said Vito sells pistons like this made by Wiseco.