toolman

I went to Fastenal here in Cincinnati they said no they don't have them nor could they get them. So if you have a part# let me have it I will go back and ask again. Thanks Tim

Napa or a good autoparts store should be able to hook you up, Not Auto Zone or Advance

Weld a nut to it let cool from the welding a few minutes and it will come right out. Done it many times for myself and others. Use a 6 point socket or boxed end wrench.

Looked at the pic. That is identical to mine when the bearing in the top of the case broke. the arm is truned and pushing the rod and ball out releasing the presure on the clutch just as if you have the handle pulled in. Get new bearing and seal and arm once the are bent the are to weak it will bend again.

I had the bearing go bad where the clutch arm goes into the case and made the clutch bind up and not release Also had a cable come apart on the upper end and bind the clutch up.

Mobil 10-40 for many years. The only problem i have is second gear breaks every few years. But I have ran the same clutch for about 6 years.

It's a personnel choice. I like the simplicity. Mine are trail bikes one just put togather with a trinty set up and 33mm pwk the other I have had for years it is a moto-fast set up with a 38mm Lectron which I would not take any money for it. It runs good sure there are faster machines but I handle most 450's . Just took it apart for trans problems and it still has 170 psi compression after 5 years of running and I have twenty year old that has rode the shit out of it. I truly think the 2 into 1 engines last longer. Thanks: Snope the latest build mentioned above is running great. Can't wait to get the Lectron back and do a comparision. I wish there was a dyno in or near Cincinnati just for testing such things. Just my 2 cents

I'l be there Saturday. Maybe a few other but not on banshee's. I always park on the left as you come in along the tree line so you can get a little shade.

Dam rain!!!!!!! Made some changes but have not gotten a chance to try them. Just to dam wet. EEK needle and adjusted the cable and a 40 pilot jet.

I'm a welder ( 30 years). Welding that shaft is a bad idea not that it can't be done but that shaft is either case hardened or a hard alloy to begin with and could break and cause a real problem. If i was going to do it i would braze it or silver solder it. But then you have heat issues also to deal with. I just had this happen I'm replacing the shaft. Tim

I use the yam bond same as the case sealer. Never had a problem

Took a motor apart for trans problem and found my crank is coming apart on the fly wheel side it opened up about .o30 over specs. from the clymers manual. Is it possible to have it repaired and welded. All of the bearings look and test good. What about phasing i have heard this and think I understand it is basicaly checking to make sure the travel of the rods are 180 degree's apart or one at top dead center while the other is at the bottom of the stroke. I guess you would have to use a degree wheel. Thanks Tim

Sorry I was not much help. But thought some others may chime in.

Yes took one apart this weekend and the only thing we could find was the idler gear that engages the kick start had came loose the spring clip and washer that hold it on were in the bottom of the clutch case. I went ahead and slpit the cases but could not find anything else wrong. No broken gears or bad bearings. It only made noise in second gear every other gear ran fine. So I do not know if the idler came loose becuase of the something else or it was making the noise? They are on the same shaft just oppsite ends.

I'm at about 500 feet. Will try backing the cable off tomorrow never even thought about it, but it makes sense. That is the smallest pilot I have right now. I started with a 195 main and a eek needle then tryed a 185 main no change at all. Thanks for the help I will make changes and post tomorrow. Tim

I'm at about 500 feet. Will try backing the cable off tomorrow never even thought about it, but it makes sense. That is the smallest pilot I have right now. I started with a 195 main and a eek needle then tryed a 185 main no change at all. Thanks for the help I will make changes and post tomorrow. Tim

The idle screw is in all most all of the way. It has a 48 pilot and the air screw is out 1 and a half turns. I had played with the clip on the eek needle kept moving it up not much change. I put the DGK needle in put the clip in the middle then moved it up one and it is alot better but as i said earlier it is really wet I'm breaking the tire loose in fourth so it is hard to get a good plug reading. thanks Tim

Hey thanks Fresh bore new reeds 180psi plus 4 timing clip one from the top eek needle. This thing pulls hard no hesitation at all from low thru the middle then goes flat 3/4 to full I have never felt this before it actually seem rich so I'm going to change the needle. Running a eek I'm going to try a dgk should be leaner right? I have not got to run it completely out yet we have had 3 inches of rain the last 2 days the field where i check jetting is soaked just a mess. I lowered the main from195 to 185 didn't make any difference. As far as drag racing we just play. I know the ported bikes with dual carbs are usally faster. It just amazes some of them how well the 2 into 1 runs. I have read many of your post thanks for the wealth of information on the 2 into 1 set ups. I have the moto-fast manifold and Lectron carb on one it runs great and is easy to take care of. Tim

Dam if they drop off that bad they will be going down the road. My 2 into 1 motofast does not drop as bad as this motor is doing with the Pro circuits. With two carbs if one screws up the bike will still run but may lean out on one cylinder I have seen it a pilot jet or main plugged and lose a cylinder just melt it down. Basically my motor last longer than guys I know running two carbs. The one I'm pulling apart now ( Trans problem) was rebuilt October 2004 becuase of trans then and still is 170psi checked last night and the kids have road the shit out of it. I don't have any real port work but it is always fun to race. Might open my eye's to get it done for real. Why did you go with Wild Card and not one of the others on here. My 2 cents Tim

Ok no bashing!!!!! This thing is not working well. Pulls hard down low and into the mid range then goes flat. Might be the jetting I'm running 195 main EEK needle and a 45 pilot pro circuits pipe 180 psi plus 4 timing 32/1 fuel. it starts easy idles fine, It has been so wet here I have not had a place to really open it up but still seems flat. Any ideas. Tim I'm taking apart the other shee for trans problems I might try the lectron on this one. The lectron works well from bottom to top.

Bought a 04 roller 1 year and 3 months ago it had a blown motor. Thanks to the fine people here it is now running. I bought all the parts from member minus gaskets. Welded crank max load bearing Cases Cylinders bored and honed (self ported ) don't bash me some day I will get a real port job Pistons Wiseco 66.5mm Cool head 19cc dome may need 20cc 180 psi may be to much Modded shift star and shaft Trinty intake single 33mm carb Plus 4 timing Pro Circuit pipes and silencers (They came with the Shee )

It's alive :thumbsup: I put the Pro Circuits on it started second kick. Done a couple heat cycles aquick trip down the street just to third gear seems good need to check the jetting. Using the 19cc domes compression is 180 I may try a set of 20cc if I can find some. I like to run pump gas I know 180 is pushing it. My other shee I run 170psi on a milled head with no problems so I'm trying to get near that. Thanks For the help Tim

Mine run good enough for me and are easy to take care of and my motors last alot longer. I have more trouble with the trans staying togather. The one I run the single lectron on has had to have second gear replaced several time but the top end is still good. i change the rings and give it a hone when the trans breaks and still have 170psi. Tim

I do it all the time. I have one set up with a single lectron and a 2 into 1 pipe Runs very well. Tim

New build new crank ( stock stroke) true and welded max load bearing, Cool head 19cc domes, new wiseco piston fresh bore, single 33mm pwk carb and plus 4 timing. So I have three pipes to chose from 2 into 1 brand I'm not sure picked it becuase it was cheap it is ugly also the silencer threads on to the expansion chamber never seen that before. FMF fatties gold series or pro circuits that came with this roller Which would you use trail riding and recreational drag racing Love to beat those 450's ( the red one's) Thanks Tim