toolman

Thanks for the information. But does anyone have any comments on what I actually was asking. What metering rod are you using. I know where your located (elevation) and the type of riding are going to effect what your using. Just thought I would ask.

The 38mm runs great. I will give it a try I got the carb cheap so I can always e-bay it.

I have one set up 2 into 1 it is 38 mm (with a 5-1 metering rod) stock stroke milled head 170psi FMF fatties it runs good and is dependable mostly trail riding. I just bought another one 40mm for my other bike I can not read the metering rod numbers on it . It came off of a 250r. Just asking what metering rod are most of you using? Remember trial riding is what i do. I did a search and seen all of the pro's and con's and most only use them for dragging, but i have used one for trail riding for years and love it. The bike I'm putting it on is stock stroke 2 into 1 coolhead 19cc domes 180psi and Pro circuits. thanks

What other domes do you have ?

I like simplicity of the single carb and clean look. Others say if you want all of the power out of your motor run duals. It's just a personnel choice. Just my 2 cents.

Thanks for the information. I understand the HP to money ratio but do the really provide the actual claims of HP? I'm not trying to squeeze every bit of power out of it I ride trails and the drag race with friends not real competition. I just like a good dependable motor that runs good. I have stock stroke clean up port job ( not a real port job) cool head 20cc domes Pro circuit pipes and 2 into1 carb air box with plenty of screened openings in the lid. I'm putting togather another motor and have a set of reeds but consider buying new set for the fresh motor. The old ones look fine and ran fine before I took it apart it started easy and ran ok. The transmission had problems was the reason for taking it apart. Thanks again

I have not changed my reeds for a long time. They look good the bike starts easy and runs good for the mods I have done. Do new reeds make that big of a difference and how do you choose which are best for your type of riding. Everyone mentions vforce 2's or 3's are they the best or is this a seat of the pants feel people are talking about or dyno numbers that prove this out. I have a hard time spending a couple hunderd for reeds not knowing the real truth. Thanks

Pm sent, about the crank

Yes they are pain in the a$$ to put in when the engine is in the frame.

Put it back togather for him ( with his help ) Told him to do heat cycles and run a tank of gas thru it before you run it hard and here's my bill and I'm not responsable for any stupid shit you do to it.

I grew up on bikes and bought my first quad in 1986 and put twist throttle on it the second day and have put them on every quad since and have never had any problems. I run 2-1 carbs now so it may be easier on the single carbs verses the 2 carbs?

do you want to sell it out right? how much?

I always do a leak down test after i put one back togather. 6psi for 6 minutes nothing less.

He came by tonight with the parts to fix it.( at least I'm going to get out of my shop sooner than I thought) He must have had them next day delivered. Still no jets I jumped his shit he said he going to put the stock pipes back on until he can order the jets and get me to help him get it right this time. So I guess few hundred bucks may have been a good lesson. Just wait until he gets my bill $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ He is a good kid ,but just a dumb ass kid.

I have set of stock carbs still have tors on them and cable.

Sold a stone stock Banshee to one of the kids friends. Showed him the compression 120psi each cylinder gave him a clutch cable and filled it up with gas before he left last Sunday. He came back on Monday wanting a set of pipes sold him a set of pipes and told him it would need re-jetted. He ask if he got the jets would I help? I told him yes. Come home from work on Friday he is setting in the driveway pipes on the bike i told him I would not have time to help Friday night. He tells me it won't run. He put the pipes on and went to the stealership for jets and oil and plugs. They told him he did not need to re-jet for pipes on a 2 stroke only on a 4 poke. So he had been riding it and it quit and won't run right. Pulled the plugs out they are the leanest I have ever seen. I ask about mixing the oil he told me 32-1, is what i ran but he used Klotz i use 927 no big deal. Put my finger over the plug hole no compression on the right side. Check it with a guage nothing on the right 120 on the left. Pulled it apart this morning the piston looks good from the top, pull the cylinder off the right piston had melted on the exhuast side and the rings had broke. Cylinder looks ok I told him get set of piston and rings I wouild hone the cylinders and put it back togather. He looks at me like I have 5 eye's and starts bitching he has only had the thing a week. Sorry for the long Rant

No offense taken. I was in a hurry with the first post and did not explain the situation fully. Does any one know what the O.E. spec's are. Also I'm going to tig weld it with .030 stainless filler rod just about a third of the diameter of the pin. This what i have seen in the past on other cranks. Is this right or wrong. Thanks

Understood!!!!!!!!! I'm going to put new bearings on it and check every tolerence. I just can not afford a new crank right now and buying a used one is out you just do not know what your buying. Thanks

Your right I'm not a crank builder. But I'm a very experienced welder and machinist 30 years and I do have the tools to do the job. I was just asking the question without the long story. I took the bike apart for trans trouble and found the crank coming apart. the fly wheel side had opened up to .042" which was out of spec per the manual. I was going to send it out but never got it done. So A nice rainy Saturday here so I took the bearings off put it in the press measured the other side and pressed it back on so the 2 side were equal so that brought me to the question should it be tighter or what are the factory or after market cranks side clearance set at new? Thanks

Getting ready to weld my crank pins. My rod side clearance is .019 thousands. The manual says .0098 to.0295 thousands. should i press it tighter or just weld it like it is? Thanks

Take them to someone that can tig weld them or braze them with a torch. It can be done with a mig but again it has to be someone who knows what they are doing.

Lean X10!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! always do a leak down test intake leaks are more common than one would think.

I have a set of stockers.

I had the same noise but only second gear. When I took it apart the idler gear for the kick starter had come apart the washer and clip that holds it on was floating around inside the clutch cover. Why only second gear who knows. Fixed it and the noise went away. So pull the clutch cover and check it out.

The area around Haspin Franklin county IN. got hammered today. The local news showed the fire dept. from Laurel doing water rescuse and such so I bet Haspin is a mess. This rain sucks