toolman

The raised stamped area reads Gold Series FMF feel the power. There are some numbers stamped on the mounting tab.

I bought a set of pipes the seller said they are fatties,but i think they could be gnarlys how can i be sure or is there a difference.

I have the moto-fast it has the best sound everyone wants to know what it is.It improved the low end but i did alot of other mods at the same time so it's hard to tell just what the pipe did.I just bought so FMF fatties i'm going to try them this weekend.I will post something when i try them.

I had the same problem the gears looked great the shift drum and the forks had some wear but not much I replaced the shift drum and the forks and all of the bearings and seals, no more problem.I also had Boonman do my shift star and fly wheel and head while it was down .I got my parts from world of power sports on the net they are cheaper than the local stealership.

I work for a company all we get is a chirstmas card and a cold ham sandwich and baked beans.But i can't complain just think of all the men and women in the armed forces and where they will wake up chirstmas morning.!!!!!!!! Thanks for the privilege Tim the toolman Happy Holidays

I do not know what he had. I have had only good luck with mine the few things i have needed for it bowl gasket, needles for rejetting have come from Fast By Gast call them stuff arrived in a few days. They can't be to bad all your top bike drag racers are using them. I read your post again 100 bucks he did'nt buy a new Lectron hell that would'nt buy the slide and a couple needles.

I have a single setup with a Lectron carb 40mm it is easy to jet . I just remove the seat and and can change jets or remove the the slide and adjust the needle.No clips to remove you just turn the needle in or out or change it out .As for performance it runs just as good if not better than dual carbs with out all the jetting hassles. Check out Fast By Gast website

I have a 2 into 1 moto - fast set up it is machined from a block of aluminum that would be easy to copy.I run 40mm Lectron and stock air box.I don't know all the tech stuff .Most people look at it and say what the hell are doing . But this thing will hang with the best, drag racing& trail riding . It is easy to work on and jet.

I have a single lectron and a dual setup.You might get more top end with duals but in the woods or a short drag race I wil take my single any day any time.

I need right upper a-arm , shock , and tie rod. dam tree didn't move

I had to rebuild my trans. While it was down i sent my head,flywheel and shift star to Boonman what a difference .I now have 175 psi compression and this thing rev's so quick and shifts so easy. I know some of you are saying do it your self. Well i do this kind of work fabrication and machining for what he charges i can't spend the time to make the set up's and if you know any thing about machining set is 99% of the job. Thanks Boonman

Wait a minute I was told you open the slots up counter clockwise and then rotate clockwise to advance the timing. Let me know for sure i my have screwed up.

Just replaced all of my trans bearings and seals. ordered online from World of Powersports on Monday parts were delivered on Friday they were also cheaper than the local dealer. You have to split the case to get them out so you'll need top end gaskets also.

I have single carbed and two into one pipe banshee and a stock set up.I have less trouble with the single.The one with two carbs is always needing tweaked. The single has a lectron carb which is easy to jet. The single is also easy to work on less clutter. If it's good machine buy it you will like it for trail riding.

Clymers states .0024-0026 this seems to tight i have talked to some shops they say they bore to .005 clearance Mine measures.006 larger on both cylinders than the pistons i had 120psi on both cylinder when i took it apart. I measured the bore with a bore gage the piston with mic What about ring end gap is .012 - .018 ok. per cylmers Just so you know i took it apart for a trans problem. thanks

32:1 been running it for about 18 months just had to tear down because trans broke top end checked out great.

I was having a problem also second would not engage all the way and hard to shift also. I replaced the shifter shaft and clutch about a year ago this helped but it came back worse the second time . Second gear made a funny noise so i figured the gear it self gave out, wrong took it apart split the case and found the shift drum and the shift forks were wore out i'm still waiting for parts from my local stealership.

Torn down the shee for trans problem it's a used machine can any body tell by the numbers on the piston what brand they may be. 0.50mm oversize 513P2 CD This is what is stamped on the top. Just some information since i bought it a year and a half ago i have ran 927 oil 32:1 and no carbon build up at all.

Found the problem the shift drum has a big wear place on it was not letting the fork engage second gear completely the fork also has some wear on it.The other forks and the rest of the drum look fine.Was thinking about tig welding the bad place and file it back into shape but with all the work it took to get it apart and the cost of seals and gaskets and new bearings a new drum is cheap insurance.

Looking for some information I think second gear broke.First works fine third and so on works fine second slips makes a noise like the chain jumping around on the sprocket. Put a new clutch and shifter shaft in about a year ago,the trans was jammin and would not shift worked great after that. I have already drained the oil looking for metal just the normal clutch crap. I have a manual just thougth i would do so research here first.

First thanks Boonman I took the carbs off to look at the reeds they looked ok so i decided to clean the carbs while they were off. The pilot jet on they right side was completely blocked the left side had something in it also.Cleaned everthing put it back togather runs like a new machine . The guy I bought it from gave me a receipt from a local shop that said the carbs had just been serviced. Thanks again

Just bought a 96 last week end. Starts easy idles good has 120psi compression both cylinders. When riding the right cylinder does not fire all the time you can here it misfire or you can here the air come out the right pipe.I rode behind it you can tell when the plug didnt fire. Changed plugs cleaned air filter checked all hoses and boots everthing looks fine.It is totally stock and the t.o.r.s. is still on. The left pipe puts out a lot more smoke than the right. Thanks.

I'm having the same problem. I have tryed everthing puller,press heat penetrating fluids no luck. It appears i have bent the hub also.If you get it off put up a post on how you did it. I do have clymers manual it is worth the money but no help here.

which A-arm bushings and axle bearings are people using and where do you get them. I see alot on E-bay but are they any good.

Ok I had to bend it a good bit just to get the tank off so i could work on it. I put a magnetic angle finder on it is now 59 degrees but there are alot of varibles to consider.