jbirdman

Done. PM with paypal info sent.

Do you happen to have the stock on/off/headlight switch for sale as well?

I have a lead on one locally - I'll get back to you if it doesn't work out. Thanks!

Hey all. My stator went tits-up and I need a new one. OEM, preferably not too old (newer style plugs). Lemme know if you have one! Cheers, Jason

My stator didn't break - the flywheel itself broke apart! ...twice! I should have taken a picture. Anyway picture the flywheel sitting in your hand open side up like a cereal bowl. No remove that whole center piece and leave a 2-inch jagged hole in the face of the flywheel. That's what mine looked like (both times). And the first time it happened I was at St. Anthony's. ...6 miles from camp! :mad: I put the stocker back on and didn't have any more problems.

FWIW, I had 2 Ricky Stator flywheels in a row come completely apart where the face of the bowl attaches to the center sleeve that fits onto the crank. I sent the first one back and they sent me the 2nd one for free. When that one broke as well, I just threw it away, took all the other Ricky Stator parts off my bike and moved on.

I know there were some leakage problems with these early on, but they were redesigned to fix that and I've heard nothing but good things since then.

Just another nod to Holyman's fix here. I redid mine somewhen around 3 years ago and it's still quiet as a mouse. Well worth the effort imo! :thumbsup:

Looks like i'm set - BansheeHQ members ftw! Much thanks to faeman66.

Hey ladies and gents! I lost the cap to the coolant reservoir on my Banshee and am looking for a replacement. I figure that with so many people just removing their reservoirs altogether that there should be a few laying around out there. And I'd rather check with you all first than pay some salvage yard on eBay $20 for one. :thumbsup:

I have a set of Quicksand arms on my Banshee. The arms themselves are great and Gary gives great customer service...but I don't like the heim joints either. I've ridden quite a bit in the year since I got them and there is noticeable slop where the ball in the heim joint has worn. Also the bolt through the heim joint rusts pretty badly if it's wet where you ride (Oregon). Yes I know...WD40 or chain lube or something, but it's a pain to remember after every ride. I'd definitely prefer ball joints. With that being said, however, I know Gary is trying some new heim joints with stainless bolts that he says are better. Without knowing more about those, if I had to do it again, I'd look at the Roll Design a-arms.

I know this is an old topic, but I just saw it (looking for opinions on hydraulic clutch levers) and I *hate* to see confused physics go unanswered! ;-) Basically, MotulMonsta is right. DUNEDEMON is right in places. Sure, if you increase the distance between the fulcrum and where you're applying the force (say, by using a larger jack handle), you can apply a greater force to the load. But we're not increasing the length of the clutch lever, so that comparison doesn't apply in this case. By the same token if we *shorten* the distance between the fulcrum and the load (say by shortening the distance between the pivot point and the "pick up point" of the cable), we can also increase the force applied to the load. Either way, we're increasing the "lever ratio". If you move the "pick up point" *further* from the pivot point as DUNEDEMON was arguing, you are lessening the ratio and decreasing the effect of the applied force, i.e. making the clutch lever more difficult to pull. So, when you use an ez-pull lever, the cable moves a shorter distance for a given amount of clutch pull. Look at it this way - you're applying a Force over a Distance for a total amount of Work. That amount is how much work is required to disengage your clutch. The distance is pretty much constant - the distance from your clutch lever to your handlebars. Then you get an ez-pull lever. Now you're applying a lesser force over that same distance. It still takes the same force to push your clutch plate against your clutch springs, so less total work means your clutch plate (and cable) moves a smaller distance. So your clutch is less disengaged than it was before which may be why some people complain about ez-pull clutch levers. Doesn't mean you can't adjust the lever to make it work...just pointing out facts. There, now that everyone is my work here is done. I feel better. p.s. DUNEDEMON, I think what MotulMonsta meant by saying you're moving the pivot point in your jack example is that the pivot point moves *relative to the force and load*.

Yep, that's what I'm talking about. I've heard good things about it - just getting a little extra feedback. Thanks for the replies! Can't wait to put everything back together and try it out...

Hey all, looking for some feedback on transmission mods. I'm getting my 2nd and 3rd gears backcut right now (by MP Racing here in OR). I don't drag race and the only time I'm shifting under hard acceleration is doing tree shots (hill climbs), where I don't go past 3rd. So, first of all, those of you with cut gears - any problems with them? I've also heard folks talking about moving the shims on the tranny shaft to the other side of their mating gears. Anyone know why this is done and what it accomplishes? Also, I'd love to switch to RZ shift forks, but like many people have said, they're d*mn hard to find! Anyone know of any? Finally - heading to St. Anthony's in 1.5 weeks...oh yeah!

Here's the one I got - it's a bit spendy ($80) but it's very high quality, accurate and it's liquid-filled so vibration from your bike doesn't make it hard to read the needle. I'm getting another one for my wife's bike. In-line Temperature Gauge