alcoholbanshee

That was a bad deal........just did'nt seem right to be out there after seeing someone pulled out in a body bag. My heart goes out to the families involved.

Stealth is Mike Z. Sainty was a partner in the business. Sainty is still in England as far as I know with health problems. Stealth at this point is not producing any pipes.... but Mike does do some other small stuff.

True dat sainty is a pimp!!!!!

Hey Rocketman I am not sure how you sleep at night......but that is not the story Andy would give. Well it is the exact opposite. And since I was there for most of this saga at least I know the truth about you and your pipes.

You need to get your facts correct GRR pipes are GRR pipes. The stealth pipes are a cone design and the GRR pipes are two stamped halves welded together.They could not look more different. I am at GRR daily I know who stamps the pipes and the whole story behind it. The stealth pipes are made by Mike Z. But if you want the whole story on that. Sets number one and two were welded by Andy at GRR (I was there to see it) so you can call them GRR pipes if you want. I think where you have made your mistake is Mike Z (stealth) used to run Andy's pipes on his 350 bike.

I'll be there. I will be the guy with the black and red drag bike kicking your asses. J/K. Look me up down at the drag strip. I will be there all day Saturday. I just hope the bike will make it in, in the back of my truck with no problem.

What do you want for the crank and a set of stock reed cageas(no porting)?

I say buy the CPI pipes........ I dont need any more competition here in Mi. J/k. You will not go wrong with the GRR pipes they have more top end than a CPI. And pull harder thru the entire band.

Nitrous!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I have stayed out of these DYNA posts for too long now. Dyna is a great product.....but with that being said. Most of the top builders in the country have tried the DYNA and have gone back to the stock setup. Why? Because there is vary little if any advantage to the DYNA product. Look at most full out drag bikes out there they are running stock setups. Dan Hull from A&S is running stock CDI's on all of his bikes. Except the triple and he uses a Rotax Mach Z setup on that. Guys you can spend a lot of money on this stuff and really gain nothing. Now lets talk about boost bottles,reed spacers v-force reeds and ported stock cages for that matter.

Dan Hull built a three cyl. motor with cheetah cylinders made 180+ horsepower and is very reliable. Andy @ GRR is building one right now with stock cylinders. There is no reason it souldnt be reliable if you make the cases correct. I would think that would be the weak link.

I have tried both. I think the strut works much better. I have 1.5 short times on dirt with the strut and 1.7 with the shock ( Marvin Shaw). I have tried the shock at different pressures and it never got better. The wieght transfer was just really bad. The stock shock is even worse than the Marvin. I spin real bad with the stock shock. My motor is a 85 horse GRR Alky drag motor on a GRR suspended drag chassis running 4.40's on dirt. But the results were pretty much the same with the stock frame. Now I have heard of some people modifying the rear Marvin so there is a minimum of travel and it works real well. They let out all of the nitrogen then fill it with oil so the shock only has a inch or so of travel. Then you fill it back up with 600-900psi of nitrogen. I have heard real good things about this setup and will try it this year.

They mate the sled cases with the Banshee tranny. K and T in utah do some of this work. You will have easily have $15000 plus to make a good setup. That is just for the motor not the whole bike. They also like to grenade pretty regularly. You might want to go another route. You can easily get 150 horsepower out of a 14mm Cheetah setup, for under 10 grand. That is the way I would go if I had an unlimited budget.

Most dirt drag bikes use a solid strut in the rear.

I run 34mm TM carbs. They are awesome. You will not be dissapointed.As for no bottom end. I run 1.5 60 foot times in sand on a 350 stock stroke stock bore.

Andy @ GRR can do it.

The petcock is what you use to turn the gas on and off. You will need a 1-60 drill bit set. Drill your dump tube in the carb(the thing the needle goes thru) to .125 . Then drill your main jet to some where around .100 to start. You will probably be able to leave your pilot alone. Then just run your bike and check out the plugs. If you are to lean or rich just drill your next set of main jets larger or smaller. You will go thru a lot of jets to get it right but you can do this. I bought my mains off Ebay. Do a search for "Mikuni" you will find them. The ones I bought were like $10.00 for 50 mains. Buy small mains like 300 or so, they are small enough to drill out.You will also need to have your needle clip in the 4th or 5th position. You will also need to advance your timing a 4 degree key will work but you will just end up buying a adj. stator plate later, so you might as well buy it now. One other mistake I have seen people make is..... make sure you put the tee on your fuel line in the right direction. Put it so your inlet goes in the center and you carb lines go out the sides. Also route your lines to your carbs with no sharp bends or kink of any sort. This thing will drink a lot of fuel. And that fuel needs to be as unobstructed as possible.

With your mods your motor will run great on alky with stock carbs. I know a guy with a 8mm stroker 70mm bore motor that runs stock carbs with no problem! I do not run a pingle and I have a 85+ HP motor on alky. I am building a 4mm stroker 68mm bore motor and do not plan on running a pingle. I just took out the strainers on the top of the stock petcock. My motor makes 85+ hp on a brake dyno and I have 125lbs. of compression. I have tried more compression but the motor runs best where it is. That includes times on a track. I also only run 7 degrees advanced timing. There are a lot of misconceptions about alcohol. Basically you need to get a baseline then start documenting changes along the way. You can spend a lot of money only to find out what you already have went faster.

I run 19/37 gears when on pavement. What would you like me to run, 14/20?

I got my 17t and my 19t from Shooter at Dynoedge.

I run a 19 on mine. All I had to do was a little hacking on the stator cover and it fits in with no probs.

I have ran a best of 4.41 @ 72 mph on sand and 4.50's on dirt in 300 ft. I have a GRR 350 stock stroke, stock bore, no welded transfers, no triple exhaust, 34 mm mikuni's with GRR drag pipes.I run alcohol. It is a GRR chromoly chassis with a plus 10 arm. The bike really hauls ass in the sand. For the coming season I will be adding NOS. I hope with some tuning to run 4.teens or so.

I bought 100 mikuni mains off ebay for $25.00 shipped to my door and I use a 1-60 drill index to do the rest.

I have never seen anything at the drags but haulers and probably never will. They are awesome.

We use nitro in our alcohol powered quads in the winter on ice. The only reason we do this is to build heat in the pipes (alcohol and cold does not mix). Not for more power. We only use good quality nitro (VP fuels). Not R/C stuff. We use about 3-4 ounces per gallon of fuel. I also have friends that use it in their drag bikes, and swear by it,but I choose not to in the summer. But in their defense it is real reliable if used in small doses. You need to be real careful with your jetting because I have seen plenty of trashed jugs and cranks because of this stuff.