sredish

sorry, i missed this. scott@redishconstruction.com

shoot, barely remember now. i've had them on my computer since they were done, like back in 03. if i remember right, they came from a guy over on planetsand that i used to know.

anyone ever see this sheet i use to use to compare some. i believe this was a 370 build, not sure on all the specs/porting, hell someone may remember it, dunno. one thing to notice is not so much peak power, but the broadness, say how long a given pipe is carrying over 50 hp

had Fatties, had T5s, had PT Mids, had PT Highs, had Pro Circuits. but, never had a CPI, Shearer type of pipe. I don't care so much about overall power, but what's more important to me is smoothness. I'd love a set of CPIs, even if they lacked in the low end, but built power smoothly into the never-ending top end. What I mean by smoothness is if I take it out to dune in the trails or something and its super peaky and hard to keep in any power, but if they're smooth, even low power in the bottom end, if it builds smoothly, then it'll still be better at duning in the trails and such. in my experience, the T5s were much 'peakier' than the Fatties and PT Highs and weren't as fun for me to ride, similar type of power, delivery albeit a lot more, as the stockers, peaky with a hard hit. I'm not a fan of 'hit', i prefer progression. Again, in my experience, I've never ridden anything that built power as smooth as the PT pipes, both Highs and Mids... just incredibly smooth. I'm fairly sure I'm going to get another set of PT Highs, unless I decide to try some CPIs but don't think so, I like to wear shorts sometimes when I'm cruising, testing and stuff.

Can someone give me the skinny on the older Toomey T3's.... my memory is blank on it.

are they Fatties? Can you email me a couple pics? are they decent shape, rusty, dented, look like hell or look great... not that I'm all that particular.

Payment no longer pending. And is that front bumper sold, didn't see it listed so I'm guessing it is, but thought I'd ask.

backfiring is typically a symptom of leanness, not always but a lot of times. go richer on the needle, 4th clip, first and see if it helps. u sound lean to me.

try raising your needle to the 4th clip. and you might find the 310s with the needle on the 4th clip runs even better

nossmachine.com for your 'coolhead' needs.... they'll set you up right, you have a choice of cool colors and don't have to change your head studs out like you do with others. timing plate is good, get one off of ebay if you'd like, go +4 to +6 on that. reeds, depends, you don't have porting so you can probably save the cash and get some Boyesens. If you plan on porting down the road or something, you can go ahead and get the VForce if your budget allows.

well, the EEK and DEK are the same except for the first letter which designates the taper. So, EEK and DEK are the same diameter and same length, just a steeper/richer taper on the EEK which you can see does nothing before 1/4. so, you may need to experiment with the diameter, maybe a DEJ or DEG. Take a look at this keihin needle chart: http://www.mxsouth.com/keihin/keihin-jets-...pe-pj-pwk_1.jpg would it start better if you held the throttle open?

sunoco 110 is $7.50 here, they sell it to me for $7.35

well, that's not needle, that's pilot. the needle and main take over around 1/4 throttle, below that it's pilot and air jet/screw. if it ran good in the 1/4 and up area, then you need to look elsewhere. the clip pos. affects 1/8 to 1/4, but still not starting. you could lower the needle one spot and help some.

Is that a 'ready to go' cylinders and pistons? were they ran and how much wear on them since the last bore/hone? PM me if you would rather.

damn i can't believe that isn't sold. seriously.

yes, wd40 will work fine.

i just use a little premix for the honing... doesn't need much, just a few (3 to 5) passes up and down and that's it.

so definitely experiment. try the EEK and see if that fixes you up. carbparts.com has them, not much money.

you can mix 50/50 or 60/40 with pump/110, might work well for you.

main goes in that big brass center and the pilot is down in that little hole. need a little flathead to get it.

no, no adverse effects either way. ideally, you'd like to have the octane of the fuel match the requirements of the motor; 104 or so would probably be a little more 'ideal' but it's not going to really make much difference. don't think twice about it. i run 110 in my wife's bike that would run just as well and be fine with 103/104, no worries.

absolutely, the ONLY octane booster that works for what we need it to... tried and tested on many thumpers, including my 15:1 stroked 450r.... Kemco Octane Booster "Octane boost-fuel additive that really works. 2-16 point increase on octane. Turn a 93 Octane fuel into 101 with 8 ounces per gallon. CONTAINS LEAD! Fouls O2 sensors and plugs cats. Off road use only. "

no, in fact it should be higher quality than what's at the pump, w/o all the crappy additives.

cool. blaat, i sent my money over a little while ago. so check with lowbuck on that.