sredish

thanks, that's what I keep trying to tell everybody but I guess they don't believe me. anyways, when you getting that 420 kit? is it powervalved??

keep it on topic mister....

and if you'll notice, most of my replies are getting shorter and shorter.... i just don't see the point sometimes of putting in the long detailed replies anymore when I'm going to have to repeat it in another hour. not saying i don't mind helping, but we need to learn to use some of the resources at hand, and the whining and BS belongs on bluetraxx. good thing I don't have the power to ban, because I'd be getting carried away with the power. Keep that sh*t on bluetraxx, it doesn't belong here. Use your head, keep the threads where they belong and no ass grabbing... oh, and welcome to the adult world.

go to a 33mm single carb, you'll add low end while still getting better top. if you go to some 28's, you'll risk a little bottom end and I don't think the top end will really add a lot. Not too mention, the 28's will use more gas than the stockers, and the single 33 will use less than the stockers. Heck, my 35 always used less.

You ain't shittin.... I'll see what I have going on. I'd like to ride also, since I just got the banshee going again and haven't been on the Honda in a few weeks. I'm not sure I can make it tho, but I'll let you know. What time were you wanting to get there? Wanna leave early to "beat the heat"?

what is your throttle position when the bog occurs? Read THIS.

I've always ran a 35mm PWK carb. I'm really not a fan of the PJ carbs, which is what a 34mm Keihen would be 34mm is a great size for the single carb, anywhere from 33 to 35. You'll notice a great low/mid gain with some gains on the top end over the stockers. I do it for the power, but the ease of tuning is a huge plus. One note, the smaller 33mm will be slightly easier to tune. I'd go the smaller route if porting is not in the future, even with portwork, the 33 will still run awesome.

Probably just a lean bog and it echoed through the airbox since the lid was off. Taking the lid off will cause it to lean out some.

See, I knew they spoke a different language in Cali...

in the low end, is it bogging when you punch it? sounds kind of like a main jet issue. read the "Troubleshooting your Jetting" thread located... HERE. BTW, this thread belongs in the Jetting section. I realize you may not know that this is a jetting issue, but it sounds like it is for future reference.

ummmm.... who wants to break it to him...

with a 420 kit, you should buy the carbs in my sig and sell your stockers. you'd probably come out close to even as well, only I don't have a throttle cable, which'll run you another $35 or so.

Hmm, quality Craftsmen $30, near identical one made in Huang Huing, $12... I'll let you make that decision. I like Matco, which is more than $30.

Ohtsus suck. They're not bad but always super thin sidewalls and get flats way too easy. In my honest opinion, the iRazrs have ubelievable hookup on the banshee. I believe they're the best tire for the rear as they hook up awesome, the weight helps keep them from overly spinning and they're just bad. I'm not sure on the differences between the XC and the GNCC, but they GNCC is new and only comes in a 21" size, so I"m sure you have the regular style. The XC's are said to perform better in loose stuff, sand and mud, but not as well in technical stuff like woods and GNCC style terrain.

it also depends on the oil. the "key" is to read the back of the oil bottle and it'll give a range of ratios. as long as your in that range, you should be fine. for instance, amsoil has an oil that is rated for 100:1 and there's been several peeps on here running the 100:1 with zero problems. Me, I'm more of a 40:1 guy, but just using that for an example. Read the back of the oil, as long as your within the range, your good.

most likely your needle. try richening your needle to the 4th or even 5th spot and see what happens, should get better. backfires typically signify a lean condition.

too bad it doesn't look quite like that anymore.... my shocks are gone, a-arms are gone, pegs are gone, beadlocks are gone, billet stator cover is gone, i guess everything else is about the same. all that stuff went towards modding my new baby, shes about 4 months old.

That was my EXACT jetting at 660', only I'd often be in the 4th clip, but sometimes 3rd.

Okay. I want to get a good true duel exhaust on my new truck. also a 90. the guy who did the last exhaust job on the other truck said there wasnt enough room for the mufflers. now i know alot of you here have em. can you give me a idea of how my next set up should look. so i can show him there is room. im wanting something that looks good and sounds good. thanks heres a decent pic of the last exhaust job i had.

The two rear tires that work the best without a doubt are : 1) Maxxis iRazr rears. These have some totally insane hookup and grab as well as sliding for going in and out of the trees. These work awesome, only downside is they wear quick and are heavy. These are the ONLY tires for a mud race, although I haven't tried tire #2 in mud and they're probably good as well. 2) Kenda Knarly GNCC version. The GNCC Knarlys were partly designed by Jeff Stoess ( a woods racer) and these things hook up just about as good as the iRazrs everwhere. They are awesome tires as well, IMO. If you don't have the cash to replace the razrs every 6 months (trailrider) or every 4 or so races, then get these. These are also lighter than the iRazrs I believe. You can not go wrong with either of those. On a side note, the iRazr fronts absolutely suck!!! Do NOT run them, or you'll end up in a tree, IMO. The Kenda Klaw fronts are totally awesome. They corner well, don't collapse in the trees and have awesome bite. I run these now and soon I'll be running some Knarly rears (GNCC of course). Note: The std. Knarly XC doesn't do well in the woods compared to the "GNCC" Knarly, so be sure to check that.

Naw, your 100 over, so keep your oil at 32:1, that's fine. I think your pilot might be a little big. Go down a size or maybe two and see if that helps. Also, bump your main up another size and see if the top end gets better.

Agreed. That sounds too low to be running all that well. Your starting would be horrible.

Note to self: do not piss off bigboybanshee....

They're not fatties, they're Paul Turner mids. I'd send them to Afghanistan as long as I get my dough and the shipping's covered. The silencers I'm selling do not have turndowns on them.

you know, some motors that race fuel isn't necessary in, when you put race fuel in them, they don't necessarily run worse, but they're not quite as responsive sometimes. this is because, for optimum combustion, the higher octane needs that extra squeeze of combustion and it just doesn't get it so it causes the combustion to be short of ideal, if that makes sense. The best thing to do is always run the fuel your motor is setup for.