sredish

The 40mm on my TRX is now bored to 43.5mm. Works great, came out great. Boring is a very easy way to get the power out of it. No sense in paying all that money for new carbs when you can bore them out a little.

is the fuel on? :noexpression:

BBIII, what all do you have done to the 450? Had it on a dyno?

Fatties like a 280 to 310 main, depending on temps, elevation and air density. I'd try a 280 or 290 main and see how that works, then try dialing in the needles, 3rd or 4th clip probably. Also, Fatties tend to like a leaner pilot than say... Toomeys. You might try a 27.5 pilot, that's all you should need with those mods, 30 would be too much. Hmmm, just now read the other posts.... There's definitely an issue. A leakdown wouldn't hurt. A compression check would be good and I'd also check the crossover tube on the manifolds to be sure it's still in check; and not in that order. Probably check the crossover tube first..... Edit again: 120 is good, maybe I should try reading the WHOLE post first....

thanks dajo. And again, I meant no offense to anyone or was point any fingers, i just wanted him to know there is nothing wrong with running in the second clip. A 380 main is somewhat rich, but my bike with stock carbs would've been a 380 or 390. Some port jobs just require a bigger main. I bet with a pair of 30mm carbs, he would see even more power. Now, if you wanted to bring the main size down some, you could get the same EXACT needle, but with a slightly steeper taper and that would let more fuel through the needle from 1/2 to WOT and richen up the whole top end part of the throttle. Witht that, you'd probably run the same clip position and a 350 main, but it would richen the 1/2 to 3/4 more than what you have now, so there could be an issue there. Needles are very very specific pieces. You can get the needles with different tapers, diameters, lengths, L1's (L1 is the length from the 1st clip to the start of the taper), etc. to totally fine tune the bike in with. Think adjusting the clip alone is bad, you should try playing with all those parameters.... it gets confusing and tedious. Above all, if it's running good, starting good, no hesitation or bogs, leave it alone. When winter comes, you might expect to move that clip down a spot or two though.

IMO, unless, and I say UNLESS you are a dragger, I'm not a fan of big carbs. they're harder to tune, bad for the overall power curve, bad for throttle response and unnecessary. The stock size carbs are actually ideal for a stock bike. 28mm carbs can work good on a stock bike with mid-to-top or rev pipes. Anything bigger on a stock bike is too much. Now, for a ported stock-bore bike, I don't see the need for anything bigger than 28's. They flow really good, have good crisp throttle and keep the power smoother. I'm actually not a fan of anything bigger than 30's at all, even on a 4 mil or a big bore because I'm not a full on dragger, I like to trail or dune and like to have smoother power than what a pair of 34's or 35's will give you. I mean, when you get into the big BIG bikes, sure more flow becomes necessary but I'm talking about typical stock to mild-modded bikes.

There are 5 clips on the needle for a reason; because all motors require a very slight difference in tuning to get the right fuel mixture. you did the right thing by trying a richer clip position, getting unsatisfactory results, so then going leaner and seeing how it runs. This is the typical trial-and-error jetting that we all face. If you put it in the 2nd clip and it behaves perfectly, leave it alone. That's obviously the position your bike likes. If you were to get it into the 1st position and still have trouble, then that would mean you need a needle with a leaner L1/clip. There is NOTHING wrong with running in the second clip as compared to running in the 3rd or 4th. If it's running good, starting good, no bogs or anything, leave it alone and have fun. No offense to anyone, but it's funny, he's saying it's running perfect, no bogging, hesitation or anything and you all are still wanting him to change his jetting around. The main jet is 3/4 throttle to WOT, so if he's having a bog mid-throttle, going into the powerband, the main isn't going to help him out a whole lot. I see what your thinking, lower the fuel throughout with the main, but if it's not bogging on top and revving good and clean, then why lean the main for WOT? That's just me. Of course, no one can say just how good the jetting is without some good dyno runs with an o2 sensor. And something for the threadstarter to visualize with.

so, what's the general consensus? Sandfest or the week prior to Sandfest?

only real way to "test" is on a dyno. make several different ones with several different lengths and put it on a dyno for testing, then you'll KNOW for sure what works best. It does look like a Graydon which is my favorite 2 into 1 setup. Also, don't forget to weld a crossover tube into that intake. Just use small, thin gauge alum. and bring it straight across, but you need to get some sort of equalization in there or you could have some slight running problems. cool to the touch is normal, it's flowing a lot of air and it will get cold and often times get condensation on the outside, very cool.

30 will probably too rich. With stock pipes, I'd have a hard time thinking you need a bigger pilot, but if so, go slow to a 27.5.

I'm running them on the 450. As far as the spring rates and valving, I really don't know... sorry...

I wouldn't go bigger than a 35mm on the single carb. Jetting for low to mid throttle could be an issue, due to a vacuum loss at lower rpms on the big 38mm single. Or, your best bet may be a pair of 30's. A pair of 35's are just too big for anything other than dragging IMO. While they feel powerful, he's probably losing out on some low end, which that loss will give him some snappiness in the mid-rpms, which people often translate as more power, but it's actually a loss in power.

where you located? sell the Toomey pipes, intakes and carbs, then lower the price and maybe we can work something out. I don't need the intakes and stuff on there, or those pipes.

Never had any problems like that and I raced the shit outta mine for a while. Check for air leaks on that side, could also possibly be the crank seal starting to go behind the flywheel, not 100% but a possibility. That tends to lean the left side some.

I was looking for a picture, but don't have one that's decent. The one I have, it's hard to see the line. If your looking directly at the stator, in the 3 o'clock position, there's a line, it's where the case halves (lower and upper) meet. It's a line that runs horizontal and you line the marks up with that.

I was going to say 180 to 185 depending on how it runs. May be a 187, but you'll have to try them and see. DEK needle will work fine at that elevation.

14 is stock. going up to a 15 on the front will spread the gears out some and keep you from shifting quite so much, but you'll need pipes to pull the taller gear properly. a lot of people will tell you to gear down, but trust me, that'll have you shifting like crazy and make you work harder. Not too mention, you'll accelerate faster and top out higher, just better overall. A 15 tooth on the front is the ticket for a piped banshee.

I didn't realize you had a 43 on the back and a 13 on the front. That could be difficult to get right. I almost like the idea to gear up a little to see if you can pull 4th a little longer. Maybe try a 41 on the back and see how 4th pulls then. I definitely wouldn't suggest a 12 tooth front, due to the sharp angles on the chain.

struts, what exactly do you mean by this? Surely you don't mean pulling the shocks and using solid linkage do you.......

don't do anything drastic. your obviously close, so if you make big moves you'll get big changes. you need small changes. 3 on the rear equals 1 on the front. So, start with one on the back. See how that does, if you need a tad more, go 2. If you need the third, then move the front sprocket down a size and start over on the rear. One or two teeth on the back may be all you need.

... and I believe it's: Cornucopia: (k

First thing you need is a Pro Flow plate of some sort for the air filter. This is an aftmkt plate that converts the air filter to a better clamp on style. The stocker is very prone to leaking and doing damage. You can get them from Pro Design and I think Noss Machine, a site sponsor has them. Tires will help, the banshee is very much a tire spinner. Hook up is key. If you think the stock power is good, then go for it. If you want more, consider a set of pipes. FMF Fatties are killer pipes that work well with future mods should you go further, have good low end great mid and still good top, not too mention they're pretty economical. Pretty much most mods are preferencial. As to what pipes, what tires, etc. To sum, get the air filter plate, good tires and some pipes and you'll be rocking. Another thing I'd consider after the pipes, is a 15 tooth front sprocket. It'll make it easier to keep in the powerband and help out in the open.

both...

Yea, I'll probably go the week before Sandfest, but then again, Sandfest may be a good week to go....

have fun and go with it.