sredish

not sure what stock is but it shouldn't be more than 2 turns out. any more and it's time for a pilot jet change. usually you want 1 to 1 1/2 turns out. it's not much of a tuning device, it's more of a "fine-tuning" device. get your pilots set and dial the idling and all in with the air screw.

Yes, clean it good. You can get a little clamp from RMATV that clamps on the end of the hose. Put the tube on the WD40 can and spray it in there until you can see clear WD coming out the bottom side. Of course, remove the cables from the carb first. While your there, do the same to the clutch cable as well.

I've heard a lot of good things about the RW pipe but the Dasa I'm running has a tad bit more low end from the dyno's I've seen. Actually, the dynos I've seen, they're pretty god-darned close. There's a guy with a 450 in OK that has one and very similar mods and hp to me. One of these days, we're going to get together and swap pipes and dyno to see how each works on our bikes. Anyways, maybe we'll meet up sometime. My dates are for sure, the weekend of the 22nd. I'll be there Friday sometime through Sunday. Here's a pic of my quad so anyone who's there will be able to find me. http://www.redishconstruction.com/Images/P...e/TRXLSmall.jpg

yea, think that's about where I was 3 quads or so but I'm running 6 paddle rears to help keep the front from flying up at launch so I get some excessive spin at launch. not a big deal, i just drag for fun and it runs good enough for me. i do like his quad, makes me want to get a yfz with an out-frame. :shoothead:

rickystator.com or ebay

you might get faster responses with a question like that by posting it in the Engine section next time.

they'll be sold through canadian dealers next year and then will be pulled from n. america altogether last I heard.

they key is not to cruise the quad at a given rpms or ride it at a consistent throttle position. the rings need pressure to seat, the acceleration and heavy deceleration give them the pressure needed to seat. 1. Fire it up, get it to operating temps for maybe 8 or 10 minutes and kill it. Let it cool completely. 2. Repeat step 1 and retorque. 3. Ride for 10 or 12 minutes 0 to 1/2 throttle once it warms, not moving the throttle slowly, you want to give it 1/2 throttle and let off varying it A LOT. After times up, let it cool completely. 4. Ride for 10 to 12 minutes from 0 to 3/4 throttle just like you did previously and then let it cool completely. 5. Let her friggin have it. By now you have 20 or 30 minutes on it and she's ready, just continue to try and vary the throttle quite a bit and not cruise for the first hour or so. The first hour is the most important on setting the rings and ensuring long life with no blowby. Only way to break in a motor... http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

I wouldn't suggest switching from the std. "8" heat range unless your spark plugs show the sign that they need a different heat range. Look at the grounded side electrode to determine if you've got the proper heat range for your spark plug and this is done by closely examining the color change of the side electrode. If the color of the electrode changes near its end where it sits over the center electrode, then the spark plug heat range is too cold and what you're seeing is the color changing due to the heat transferring too quickly. If the color of the side electrode changes color near where it's welded to the base ring, then your spark plug is too hot and what you're seeing is a slower heat transfer from the side electrode to the base ring, resulting in preignition/detonation issues and most of the deposits will be burned off. Ideally, you want the side electrode of your spark plug to change color at about the half way point, about where it makes it's 'L' shaped bend.

there's a member on the trx450r.org site and I know he's a member at other places, maybe YFZCentral. His name is John05YFZ and has one hell of a runner. Like a 520 on alky with an out frame pipe. You might search him out, tell him sredish sent ya and see what he knows. Oh BTW, it's official. I'll be at Little Sahara over the weekend of the 22nd. That's my only shot.

you didn't say your pilot. i'd try a 27.5 and a 30 as well to see if it gets any better. rule of thumb on pilot jet: when the motor is cold, if you can start it w/o the choke, it's rich. it's normal to need to use the choke on a cold motor. when the motor is hot, if you need the choke to start it, it's too lean, you shouldn't need the choke to start a warmed motor.

yea, they're not a "drag pipe", but they're extremely versatile, good word. don't get me wrong, the rev good and are good top end pipes, but w/o the on/off powerband of a drag pipe.

Boy, this guy is a tool.

put in new plugs and pull the choke. what are your mods, and what jets are u running

also make sure the crossover tube is working properly.

go for it bro!

the "textbook" way to proceed is to pull the head and the cylinders and measure the cylinder bore top and bottom and side to side to see if you can detect any out-of-roundness. Also, mic/measure the pistons to see if they're still in spec, if so, just put new rings on and reinstall the pistons, if not, get new piston and rings. You don't automatically need to rebore and you don't automatically need new pistons. I can usually use the same pistons for two cycles, meaning new pistons and rings, then rering. After using them the second time, I'll need new pistons and rings. chances are you can pull the cylinders, rehone them and get new pistons and rings and be golden. while the head's off, get it milled for more compression.

PT Hi Revs are great pipes, IMO. They are pretty smooth and have some really good midrange power, more than most rev pipes which accounts for their smoothness. Quite honestly, they're my favorite Banshee pipe.

stems are very very easy to install. a +2 is nice for a tall guy, like 6'2 and up. 6'1, it's a 50/50 whether it's too big, just personal preference.

yes, you might need to go up on the main jet a size or two. take it back to the dealer and tell them it was running lean when you shifted into 6th.

bunch of complaining bastards........ :baseball_innocent:

not telling. :beer: you could wake that thing up sooo easy though. retarding the ex. cam one tooth, opening the airbox, a pipe and a high comp. piston and you could be around 50. you already have 2 of those taken care of. get the head off, put a piston in and retard the cam and you'll be moving pretty good for a 450. My honda is plenty fast on the track and in xc but get it next to some fast duners and it starts to look stupid. damn 4 strokes, fast enough to "hang" but gets tapped out way too easy. I'm tapped right now, no more hp unless I go alky, nos or bigger displacement. I imagine it's only a matter of time before I go bigger but hopefully this project will cure me wanting to turn the 450 into a time bomb. oh, and I'm hovering around 54 and change right now, depending on temps. that's babyshit for a banshee.

is the fuel on.... ::

Sorry, I just started a TRX500R project, like just this week. Or else I'd love to.... :beer: I do miss the 2-strokes, so this is my way back in.... That "you guys" wasn't directed at me was it? Surely your YFZ is capable of hanging with this stock bore 450 Honda....

Very nice. My last pull was 54/35 but I've made some changes as well. Don't know if they're for the better or worse. SOTP no difference, so we'll see. Bigger carb could get you another ponie. Good luck with that. JohnYFZ runs his big bore YFZ with alky and said it's definitely worth some. I'll see if I can find some sheets with before/after alky. Here's a sheet. This is comparing three fuels, E85, VP U4 and Alky. Don't know the actual numbers but you can see what the curve does with alky.