sredish

jet kits are bullshit and never give you what you actually need. dynojet needles suck. they're simply blaster needles repackaged as "dynojet" performance needles. keep the stock needles in the stock carbs and you'll be golden. then figure out what main jets you'll likely need to try and order them individually from magicracing.com or carbparts.com. that'll be cheaper than a jet kit and will accomplish the same thing or more. also include a set of 27.5 pilots and 30 pilots to play with.

this may have been said, didn't take the time to read thru the whole thread. what pilots do you have? the main will have nothing to do with the starting and idling. my very first thought is to go up on the pilot another size and see what happens. it should need the choke to cold start but not need it to warm start. if the motor's warm, it should start idling shitty when you pull the choke, if not try richening the pilot.

plugs won't change your jetting AT ALL. So, I suggest, year round, to run the BR8's. Rejetting is simple and something that would be good to learn. In the summer, when the temps climb, your motor will richen. In the winter, as the temps drop, your motor will lean. Lean is BAD, rich doesn't hurt anything may just foul a plug. So..... in the winter, your motor will need more fuel than in the summer. In Texas, we get some "cooler" temps in the winter but just a handful of days below freezing and we don't ride on these days anyway; so the need for us to rejet doesn't exist. Where, I grew up, mountains of Colorado, there was a need. Near 90's in the summer and mid 30's as a high in the winter. We'd end up having to rejet a couple main sizes and occasionally change a pilot jet. What I suggest is jet for the winter, since we're coming into winter and run it that way. As spring and summer comes, you may notice your motor to start running fat, maybe some cutting out or spitting/sputtering. If so, then that means it's richening up, due to the warmer temps and you may need to lean the carb a tad. If that's the case, then let us know next spring....

the "stinger" is the pipe that connects the "expansion chamber" to the "silencer".

not sure, probably both, but I'm meeting the guy I bought it from at LS that weekend, so I don't even get to play with it until I get there. i'm installing a dial-a-jet this week to help with the quick changing of pipes and air intakes, since I seem to be "testing" so much. this way, i can get there tuned with the dasa, throw the RW on and a couple clicks and go. this will really help on the dyno, we'll see how well it works. bottom line tho, it's going to be hard to beat the dasa for all-around power. the rw may make a pony or so more up top but I know it's not going to provide the low or even the midrange hit of the dasa.

here's how i groove my turf tamers. makes for a KILLER tire.

nice. look for me. not sure yet if I'm camping in the north or south. i have a spot reserved in the south but may end up at the north with some other buds. i assure you you'll see me at the drags.

Well dammit all to hell.... :baseball_getlost: well, less competition that way.... gotta pick my fights you know... :baseball_innocent: btw, what's with the baseball smilies... :baseball_wassat:

I'll post it here as well. I'm heading out early Fri. September 22nd and leaving Sunday, the 24th. Picked up a slightly used Ron Wood pipe for the 450 to play with. When I get to LS, I'm going to try and schedule dyno time to rerun the Dasa and then swap over to the RW and run it back to back and see how it compares. The Dasa is a killer pipe on the Honda for sure. I think the RW is supposed to have slightly more overall hp but less torque and peakier. We'll find out hopefully. BBIII, Foxgirl, you guys gonna make it? Derek? Tyler? Anyone?

I'll be in LS, OK September 22 through the 24.

I agree, a Banshee that's used for typical riding, duning and occasional dragging doesn't need anymore than 28's or 30's for bigger bores..... or a single 35mm. If your straight dragging, then bigger might be beneficial at the loss of throttle response. 28mm flatslides are good carbs with crisp throttle response.

how about the sound of my thumper whoopin on ya.....

yea Mike, it's about time you lose your virginity anyhow.... :beer:

well.... did he ever make it... :shrug:

yea, i was there that weekend. i was camped just up the hill from you but didn't make it down for some reason. everytime I looked down at Tyler and Derek's camp, there wasn't anyone around so I didn't go down. After talking to him later, I realized they were all in the trailer getting sloshed. Anyways, my dates are set for the weekend of the 22nd of Sept. for sure. I'll be arriving around lunchtime on Friday and leaving Sunday afternoon. If you or anyone else can make it, that's great, if not we'll catch you next time.

I know, I know. Your definitely in the top as far as peeps on here that I trust. But anymore, there's not near as many familiar faces.....

he's geared taller than you bro. your going to jump out because you have lower gearing and when you start winding out, his higher gearing kicks in and kicks it. 2" tire difference can be quite a bit. swap tires and see what happens. if it's tuned right, he should be able to pull a 15/40.

2 strokes will smoke. 2 strokes will put out a black oily substance, called oil. When your premixing, your putting the oil in with the gas, so naturally, it's burning the oil which produces this smoke and oily substance on the pipes. That is normal. What premix ratio do you run? Now, it can be on the excessive side if your running super rich, which you probably are if your fouling out. When are you fouling out, with it just idling or when your riding? If its when your idling, go down on the pilot some. If you DO NOT need the choke to COLD start the motor, then your too rich.

a very good duner setup would be a set of Paul Turner hi revs and either a 35 or 38 mm carb.

the needle meters the main jet, not the pilot jet. so, some may disagree but i use the pilot only for idle purposes; it doesn't really affect the needle much. now, changing the needle taper or length can directly affect the mian jet. the pilot and air screw work together on the idle circuit and the needle and main work together on the 1/8 and up.

{cough} bullshit {cough}

I'd go with a pair of 30mm carbs for that motor. The 2-1 will help smooth the power some but will hold you back a little on top with that portjob. 30mm flatslides would be the ticket for top, mid and responsiveness.

hmmmm, note to self.... j/k Last time I was out there this last spring, I believe foxgirl was out there, you probably were to but didn't they/you end up putting a crank in her banshee? The white and... was it green? Yea, I'll hit you up but it'll most likely be spring before I go again. Wife's due mid-october so this trip is cutting it close as it is. Nov. 1st, I have to go to Vegas for the SEMA show and there again, that's a very short time after the baby comes, so I'll have to be good for a little bit after that.

I'm sure chase was kidding!

4 strokes can be pretty fast but it takes a lot of money to really get the power out. I have a grand in my head alone, 200 for a high comp. piston, 300 for a carb, 450 for the pipe. My quad dynoes at 54hp / 35lb.tq. That's a pretty good little chunk of power from a stock bore 4 stroke, but a stock banshee with pipes and porting can pull that. So, use that to compare. To get 65 hp out of a 450 take some big boring, stroking and/or alky. Raptors can make some pretty good power like maybe around 70 with a lot of work, I mean, a lot. Then, add nos and you have a banshee contender. But a good stroked banshee can spit out 75 pretty easy and with the right drag porting, can hit 70+ porting alone. Now, my cr500 quad project might be a contender, when it's finished. :baseball_shifty: