sredish

bore your stockers!!

good, that's what you want/need.

yea, i was going to say something was wrong, like jetting or something. glad you got it figured out.

yea, i was standing at the trailer, right by the side opening when they were running it. so, yea pretty close. anyways, PM me next time your coming to Sherman to N40 and I'll run out and hook up with you. Hell, I may be out there running th erace or playin on the TT track.

:thumbsup:

yea, that was my bike and that Dasa pipe sure is loud as FOOOOK! Hurts way deep in your ears if your very close to the trailer, but I love it. It's fun watching others standing by going, "damn, that's loud".... :biggrin:

I was there all night Fri and Sat. Had my 450 there but it was sitting on Nmotions dyno most of the night and I was watching my bud race his Banshee in the ProAm TT.

bitch

There is no 'perfect' jet kit. No one can get you the perfect jet because 1) every bike is different, 2) mods will affect jetting more, even like snorkel or lid off and 3) most people are in different elevations, locations and more. So, you can use their "jet kit" as a baseline and work with it from there. I'd most definitely keep the lid off. If your concerned with dirt then get some pantyhose or a K&N lid to cover it but there's good power to be had for free there. With the lid off, your most likely looking for 290s or 300s depending on where your at. Start with the 280 and go from there.

Ken, just realized who I think I'm talking to. This is Scott with the black 450r that was out there with the other Banshee last weekend. I've been pushing this on the 450r site as well. Still not sure if I'm going to be able to race it but I hope the turnout is what is expected.

stock porting on a Trinity CV kit needs an EEK needle to get the ideal transition to the main jet, otherwise you'll be running too rich of a main jet to compensate. get the EEK needle and go down on the main a couple sizes and it'll have a hellacious midrange and top end.

340's a little rich for Fatties. Try 300 to 310 to start with. You may stay at 300 or end up at 290 but 340s are rich. 27.5 will work well for the pilots. Needle 4th clip.

yes, continue to use the paper gaskets or you'll have leaks.

Yes, run the one as a duner/trail quad like you said and set the other up with a pair of 30's, a pair of CPI's and a +4 with a killer drag port.

a small rail is what they belong on. i could see that the 350 couldn't turn them all that well. these would be perfect on a small 2-seater hyabusa rail..... too bad I don't have one. you ought to go to PlanetSand.com and see if you can sell them there for more money, they're worth more than that.

Don't "I know, I know" IMO, Fatties are one of the best pipes you can buy for a stock bore/stroke banshee. killer bottom end and midrange with a top end that will hang with most std pipes. way smoother than Toomeys and I'll bet top end wise, they're pretty close, plus, they work even better on ported or modded banshees. I'd even run them on a +4 for an all-around type riding environment. Anyways. Porting is a crazy variable. You could be at 380 or 340 depending on how the portwork was done, quality, style, etc. I'd start with 350's and do a plug chop. 27.5 pilot ought to work and the stock needle in the 4th clip. From there, you may have to go up or down, not really sure, depends on the port. Above all, if the portwork is at all decent, you'll have a killer running bike. The fatties with good play porting will work well. Only thing I'd add is a single carb setup. That'll add more low end, smoother midrange and more of it along with better top. Not too mention, easier jetting, tuning and a cleaner look.

not sure how many us dollars that is but here's what you need. +4 hot rods crank porting to match the crank new wiseco pistons, set up for the stroker coolhead/noss head/etc. with stroker domes pair of 30mm Mikuni TM carbs FMF Fatty Pipes with that, get it assembled and you'll be golden. Killer torquey motor that will be great in the trails and FLY in the open. to recoup some of the dough, sell the dmc pipe, and stock carbs. last i heard, eric gorr was doing some work in the uk. he's the shiz when it comes to 2 stroke porting IMO. other than that, can't help ya with UK builders.

that's something you have to try out for yourself and see if it feels good to you. It's all in the feel. I rode for YEARS on a twist throttle quad, then got a new one ran the thumb for a few years then decided try the twist again, never could get used to it.

If I remember right, my Toomeys liked a richer pilot ,but then again they were T5's not 6's. Nonetheless, try a 30 and see if that helps.

yea, come to think of it, with the 34's your going to be a lot smaller sized. Try a 250 and see if that works. Sounds like your on to a good start.

That is a controversial topic, honestly. I loved it on my quad, no carb syncing, no one side running bad, no jetting dual carbs and it's nice and clean. My quad ran very hard and beat most and hung with the rest of similarly modded banshees with dual carbs, tuning is the key. Most will tell you that you'll lose top end and that's not true. A lot will tell you dual carbs are better, but that's dependant upon how you look at it. Most that speak negatively about the single carb setup have never tried it. Compared to the stock carbs, you'll gain A LOT more bottom end, more midrand and still more top end. Compared to larger 30mm carbs, you won't have that much top end but you'll have a lot more midrange and lowend then them. Most hardcore duners want 30mm carbs minimum, more like 33's or 35's and your talking about no bottom end. If it was my bike, I'd have a single carb on it, absolutely no question. If you plan on going stroker, then you may end up needing a set of duals but for a stock bore/stroke banshee, you can make it run AWESOME with a single carb setup, good porting and good compression.

thing is, portwork varies A LOT. also, the "same" portwork on different machines can still vary the jetting A LOT. When porting comes into play, all bets are off because that DIRECTLY affects airflow, vacuum and velocity. He could be at 340's but then he could be at 380's, just depends on how much vacuum that motor is seeing. Best thing to do is to start high, 370's or so and work down. No, the BEST thing to do is get it on a dyno with an air/fuel meter and dial it in that way, that's the BEST way.

Detonation - the spontaneous combustion of the end-gas (remaining fuel/air mixture) in the chamber. It always occurs after normal combustion is initiated by the spark plug. The initial combustion at the spark plug is followed by a normal combustion burn. For some reason, likely heat and pressure, the end gas in the chamber spontaneously combusts. The key point here is that detonation occurs after you have initiated the normal combustion with the spark plug. Unburned end gas, under increasing pressure and heat (from the normal progressive burning process and hot combustion chamber metals) spontaneously combusts, ignited solely by the intense heat and pressure. The remaining fuel in the end gas simply lacks sufficient octane rating to withstand this combination of heat and pressure. Detonation causes a very high, very sharp pressure spike in the combustion chamber but it is of a very short duration. If you look at a pressure trace of the combustion chamber process, you would see the normal burn as a normal pressure rise, then all of a sudden you would see a very sharp spike when the detonation occurred. That spike always occurs after the spark plug fires. The sharp spike in pressure creates a force in the combustion chamber. It causes the structure of the engine to ring, or resonate, much as if it were hit by a hammer. Incidentally, the knocking or pinging sound is not the result of "two flame fronts meeting" as is often stated. Although this clash does generate a spike the noise you sense comes from the vibration of the engine structure reacting to the pressure spike. The high impact nature of the spike can cause fractures; it can break the spark plug electrodes, the porcelain around the plug, cause a clean fracture of the ring land and can actually cause fracture of valves-intake or exhaust. The piston ring land, either top or second depending on the piston design, is susceptible to fracture type failures. If I were to look at a piston with a second broken ring land, my immediate suspicion would be detonation. Another thing detonation can cause is a sandblasted appearance to the top of the piston. The piston near the perimeter will typically have that kind of look if detonation occurs. It is a swiss-cheesy look on a microscopic basis. The detonation, the mechanical pounding, actually mechanically erodes or fatigues material out of the piston. You can typically expect to see that sanded look in the part of the chamber most distant from the spark plug, because if you think about it, you would ignite the flame front at the plug, it would travel across the chamber before it got to the farthest reaches of the chamber where the end gas spontaneously combusted. That's where you will see the effects of the detonation; you might see it at the hottest part of the chamber in some engines What typically happens is that when detonation occurs the piston expands excessively, scurfs in the bore along those four spots and wipes material into the ring grooves. The rings seize so that they can't conform to the cylinder walls. Engine compression is lost and the engine either stops running, or you start getting blow-by past the rings. That torches out an area. Then the engine quits. Detonation is influenced by chamber design (shape, size, geometry, plug location), compression ratio, engine timing, mixture temperature, cylinder pressure and fuel octane rating. Too much spark advance ignites the burn too soon so that it increases the pressure too greatly and the end gas spontaneously combusts. Backing off the spark timing will stop the detonation. The octane rating of the fuel is really nothing magic. Octane is the ability to resist detonation. It is determined empirically in a special running test engine where you run the fuel, determine the compression ratio that it detonates at and compare that to a standard fuel, That's the octane rating of the fuel. A fuel can have a variety of additives or have higher octane quality. For instance, alcohol as fuel has a much better octane rating just because it cools the mixture significantly due to the extra amount of liquid being used. If the fuel you got was of a lower octane rating than that demanded by the engine's compression ratio and spark advance detonation could result and cause the types of failures previously discussed. Detonation causes three types of failure: 1. Mechanical damage (broken ring lands) 2. Abrasion (pitting of the piston crown) 3. Overheating (scuffed piston skirts due to excess heat input or high coolant temperatures) ---------------------------------------------- Pre-ignition - defined as the ignition of the mixture prior to the spark plug firing. Anytime something causes the mixture in the chamber to ignite prior to the spark plug event it is classified as pre-ignition. The two are completely different and abnormal phenomenon.

not 100% sure on a stroked motor but typically, .030 is what I'd suggest.

if you have a crank, go 18's. compression is love. if you have a good crank then you might as well make it worthwhile. i don't see the need for 17's but 18's are nice.