sredish

no worries, just immature ignorance.... there's bound to be some here and there.

for the record, including suspension, I have more like 10 or 12 in mine. I have quite a bit more in my motor than I'd like to admit. My cam/headwork combo set me back $1200 alone. Then the $250 piston and $200 for the boring/plating of the cylinder, another $400 for the carb... $ for $, you can't beat a 2 stroke twin!! I could take $2000 and build a killer duneable Banshee motor that screams.

shorter

Baldwin would be my second option.

Yes. And actually, the HH's weren't bad either but the mfg. (CP) wasn't giving out proper ring gapping specs and the first few batches of HH's were still protos. They, partly due to install specs, had some smoking and ring issues. The Venoms went through a much stricter testing process and all the T's were crossed. Mine runs like a pissed off freight train and zero smoke.

I would more than willing to line dead even with you and teach you a few things.... better have a little more than what your telling us in your sig anyways.... A very true statement. Sure a 450 - 480 isn't going to be taking a stretched out +7mm twin, an alky monster or something but stock bore, ported banshee will have it's hands full with a PROPERLY (that's the key) setup 450. The last time i was out at LS, I was lining up with a +4 cranked, slightly stretched banshee with a very light girl on it and was getting taken by a quad length. She was very good on the starts also. The 04/05 TRX bikes have terribly low compression. The 06's and up were bumped up by 2 points. So, an 04/05 bike desperately needs a CAM, FULL EXHAUST and COMPRESSION. Those three things when done right will get you into very good territory. Porting is equally important but it the other three will get you there fast. You might as well have the head ported if your pulling it off for a piston tho. NMotions cylinders aren't bad but their portwork is horrible. The pistons they use are mild compression and just shelf stuff, nothing special. The ESR kits run well for sure but their is still a little left on the table with a nicer piston w/ more compression, Venom, Baldwin. Like I said, give Kam a call at the number I gave you and he'll have everything to set you up right and will talk your ear off.

Sho nuff is..... :thumbsup:

we'll see......

I would stay away from NMotion. does the 450r have the HRC kit? If not, you need a cam in that thing bad. Think Hotcams Stage II ($120) or an 04/05 HRC from eBay. Next you need a full pipe. Those two things will really really wake the bike up. I'd run a 14/39 gearing on it. That's one lower than stock but it'll work well once you get some mods done. After you get a cam and pipe, the next step would be to put a higher compression piston in it and a good one, not a typical shelf piston. I run a 14:1 Venom piston in my bike along with a huge cam (.430 lift and lots of overlap) and it kicks ass. When you go for a piston, you can go from the stock 94mm and jump up to 97mm for a 480cc bore and do it rather cheaply for a good kick in the power. It's been shown that going much over 490 is defeating the purpose; while your gaining cc's, your slowing the rev which is the 450's strong point, so while it builds more power on the dyno, it does it slower, so often times a properly setup 480/490 will run with or outrun a 520+ setup; I've done it myself. Any questions, PM me or get ahold of me on TRX450R.ORG. Also, a very very good contact on these bikes is Kam @ KBR in Utah. he builds 450r drag bikes. 801-967-7100 Tell him sredish sent ya.

Buddy is selling a set of dual rate Axis shocks valved for a stock to +1 width a-arm, 170 lb. rider. He wants $475 for them. They have a recent service by Axis done on them but the right shock had the shaft seal leak some. That will need to be fixed. Let me know if your interested. Scott

they are by far the VERY best tire I've EVER ran, V's or straights. I run a 21x10x8, 6 paddle and I friggin LOVE them. They turn actually really good, way better than my Hauler Extremes and slide better to. They ride much better and hook up like a frigging mother. BTW, mine are comp cut, that's the only way I'd run them, super light like that, just watch out for rocks and such, like they have at LS.

PT Mids or DMC 2-1 pipes. Tthe DMC 2-1 pipes for true woods pipes and they're cheaper and easier to find on ebay. at least they used to be.

did it blow up because it was lean? the stock mikuni needles go up in increments of ten... 310, 320, 330. I'd go to at least a 330s or 340s and see what happens; much better to be rich than lean, as you've so discovered. most bikes run 300s and 310s with pipes alone. in those temps, 30 pilots might be right on. i'd dial in the pilots by how it starts. if its starting fine, leave it alone. the "blowup" would be more caused by needle and main settings. get some more fuel in that that so you'll quit blowing it up.

you should be able to get it jetted with the DEK just fine. how does it start when the motor is COLD, do you have to use the choke or not? likewise, when the motor is WARM, do you have to use the choke or not? 38 pilot sounds a tad lean to me so that's strange. yea, something wierd seems to be going on... but i was probably the first to play with a different needle on the single carb intake. you have to do what you feel is needed. if a leaner M or N diameter is just what it needs, order one up and try it. seems every bike jets out differently and the single carb setup accentuates that. have you tried lowering needle some, like 3rd or 2nd clip? i'm afraid that'd eat into your midrange power some tho, so you may be on the right track.

might be worth a pin... :beer:

Read this, just posted it in the Exhaust section. 2 stroke & 4 stroke design.

Understanding of 4-stroke exhausts must begin with some explanation of the tuned 2-stroke exhaust system since no other exhaust system uses sound energy more effectively to enhance engine performance. Two stroke pipes are commonly called expansion chambers. The more accurate, but lesser known term for two stroke exhausts, is pulse charger". Until the invention of the pulse charger style exhaust, the 2-stroke was more of a utility power plant used in chainsaws, weed whippers, scooters, etc for its simplicity and light weight but not because of its high output. The pulse charger changed all of that. If everything else was optimized on a 2 stroke engine, changing from a non-tuned exhaust to a pulse charger would increase the horsepower by approximately 40%. That change alone was enough to tip the power scale for competition cycle engines in favor of the 2-stroke. Imagine an exhaust system that so greatly affects the output on a 2-stroke, it's the same as bolting a supercharger on to a 4-stroke! As a result, 2-strokes are highly sensitive to pulse charger designs. No other component can alter the 2-strokes performance characteristics, for better or worse, as much as their exhausts. A 4-stroke has 4 basically discrete strokes of the piston for each power cycle: 1) Intake 2) Compression 3) Power 4) Exhaust Whereas, a 2-stroke power stroke has a combination of things happening in each piston stroke and produces a power stroke on each downward movement of the piston, instead of every other downward stroke like the 4-stroke. Until a basic understanding is gained, standard physics terms associated with sound waves referring to negative pressure and sign inversion with increasing or decreasing confinement area will not be used. A much more intuitive understanding will come from this model. Think of the exhaust pipe as a giant syringe? and think of the sound wave as being not a wave but just a single pulse. This pulse is the equivalent of the rubber plunger inside the syringe, except that this plunger is thin like a rubber diaphragm and it can change its shape instantly to perfectly seal any shape of syringe. A pulse charger has 5 distinct sections: 1) Headpipe - small diameter tube/ connects to exhaust port 2) Megaphone- 1st cone section diverging away from headpipe- extends suction action of sound pulse 3) Belly- Fatter center section with constant diameter 4) Reverse Megaphone- Converging cone- reflects sound pulse (think echo)- reverses direction of sound pulse energy 5) Stinger- tailpipe- regulated pressure bleed When the piston has partially uncovered the exhaust port and the sound pulse (plunger) is in the megaphone. As it leads the exhaust charge, it leaves a partial vacuum (suction) in its wake. This aids greatly in exhaust removal by adding a ?

you'll have to visually inspect the needle if you want to know which ones in there. i've seen 2 or 3 different ones sent from trinity; almost like they're just putting leftovers in there. IMO, and I've worked with the single carb A LOT, the EEK needle is by far the best on a "stock" ported bike. The DEK works better on a ported bike. So, call carbparts.com, order up an EEK and put the DEK in the toolbox for when you get your bike ported.

don't forget the needle. you definitely want to raise the needle to the 4th or maybe 5th clip and that'll really help. Sounds like your definitely lean so the needle will help.

don't have a clue about C. depends on how drastic of a change. in texas, we have (forgive me) 100* F in the summer and 50* in the winter. To me, that would equate to a main jet or maybe two depending but I don't really ride when it's colder than that. Pilot probably won't need changing, maybe an air screw adjustment. The needle may or may not need a clip change. You can probably get by w/o touching anything but the main a size.

most, dang near all, piped banshees need either a 27.5 or 30 pilot, very very rarely a stock 25. so, yes, that's a good guess that you need to go up. rule of thumb trick: * if you can start the motor w/o the choke when it's dead COLD, then your too rich on the pilot. * if you need/have to use the choke when the motor is WARM, then your too lean on the pilot.

yes, what he said. also, whats your location? you ought to bump the compression up a little more, your leaving hp on the table still, even with pump gas. call carbparts.com and order a 27.5 and a 30 pilot. then order a 290, 300, 310 and 320 main jets. that'll be cheaper than a 'jet kit' and you won't be buying stuff you don't need. chances are, you'll be int he 310 range, with a 27.5 pilot; needle in the 4th clip.

you fired it up and ran it a little bit? it's time to lay in to that bitch now.... :beer: i had a hard time following the thread at this point, maybe because it's so early. what size carb? which fmf system? what reeds? what air filter? what elevation? any other mods we need to know about?

i'm not a fan of aftermarket needles AT ALL. The stock needle works very well, not sure why they feel you need to change it other than to sell you something. I've seen way more problems in jetting with aftmkt needles over stock needles. I say, go back to the stockers.

might ought to call jim on that one. me, personally, i'm not familiar with jetting the pj's on a stroker but i'd be guessing in the 170+ range.