sredish

while i also agree that the carbs were not why he beat you, they are way too big for the stock bike. imo, they're too big for a stock ported bike. there's no reason, again imo, for a stock bore bike, ported or not, to go bigger than 30mm. Your losing a lot of lowend with that big of a carb, then you have the narrow power band eating away at your traction (hard fast hit) and making it harder for you to stay in power, where for a 4 stroke it's very easy. Sell the 35's, put your stockers back on or bore them to 28mm and use the money off the 35's to port your cylinders. You'll be way ahead of the game.

any decent one works, it doesn't have to be the most expensive one out there to work.

thats an awfully big carb for a 2 into 1. I'm afraid you may be setting yourself up for a hard to jet quad. vacuum is what makes these things work. the larger the carb is, the less vacuum pull you have which is why low end is lost in bigger carbs, due to the lack of vacuum in the lower rpms. In a stock bike or even stock / ported bike, a 35mm carb is more than plenty and even has some vacuum issues at lower rpms... not bad but enough. With a richer tapered needle (EEK needle), you can offset this by allowing more fuel to flow through and this works well. I'd consider selling the 39 and trying to find a 35 or something. But, if your set on the 39, get an EEK needle and start off with a 185 main.

that'd be my guess....

good info Meat. Yea, I was looking at all that yesterday. I love what Ballance has done but I would like to see Borich step up and follow through. He's young, has talent but has lacked consistency in the past. When he gets that figured out, he's gonna be good. You been racing any or what?

there you go. that's a good deal.

They do make a DGL with the richer taper. A richer taper actually has more taper so as it falls to the point quicker. a richer tapered needle will have less diameter as it falls when compared to the leaner tapered needle. the BR8ES should be fine. the way you can tell if it's too hot or not is by looking at the ground strap. there will be a color change and it should occur in the bend of the ground strap towards the outer edge. But, the "8" plug should be fine. the heat of the plug has nothing to do with how it burns the fuel, they all burn the fuel the same. the heat of the plug has to do with how well it transfers heat internally in the plug. the plug has to transfer heat properly for it to operate at its best but has no affect on spark. above all, always keep in mind the throttle position that the jetting change affects and pay attention the to the problematic areas in the throttle position so you can jet accordingly.

richest how? We'll use your needle for the example. The first digit "C" is the Taper and affects 1/4 to WOT, it peaks at 3/4 throttle but still has an affect on WOT, so going to a richer taper "D" will help with bringing the main size down and transitioning to WOT faster. The second digit "G" is the L1 or length. The L1 and clip work together in gauging the total depth of the needle into the seat and work the areas from 1/8 throttle to 3/4 throttle but peaks in the 1/4 to 1/2 range. The last digit "L" is the diameter and affects basically idle to 1/4. You could go to a DGL to richen the 3/4 to WOT areas. If you felt that you needed less length, as if you were using the bottom most clip position and needing more, which sounds like is not the case, then you could try a DEL for a shorter needle. Does any of this make sense or is it confusing. Go to the page below to look at all the available needles. The page is confusing at first, but after you figure it out, it's quite simple. http://www.sudco.com/vol33/135-136.pdf Here's a chart I snagged off of Sudco a long time ago to help you as well.

first off, you get crap hookup on the stock tires.... get some Holeshot MXR6s in a 19" or if you need a 20" get some 6 ply Holeshots or the iRazrs hook up well on a Banshee. the 6 ply will get you a tad more weight and help with the launch. you sure he doesn't have an HRC kit in it? I just have a hard time believing he's bone stock and beating a piped banshee. the gearing on your end will help but you need some tires to. do that and see what happens. if he has stock cam, then the new more agressive cam is going to wake him up pretty good.

never seen cascade's version, can you link to one. the trinity and the graydon are the only ones I've seen and graydon aren't making them anymore. i prefer the graydon unit, it runs good but the trinity works well also. here's one on ebay with a 38mm carb. the carb is too big for your application but if it's cheap enough you can get it, resell the carb and buy the one you want. that's a way to try and save a little dough. they're pretty pricey direct from trinity. keep an eye on ebay and then in the for sale section here. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/banshee-tri...sspagenameZWDVW here's a killer carb for a single carb kit: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BANSHEE-2-i...sspagenameZWDVW

I've always enjoyed this site, great bunch of guys styaing together to keep the 2 stroke twin dinosaur alive!

call them and see if they can swap it real quick. where did you order them from? there is a little difference but the cost is the same no matter what and there is a performance gain there.

awesome info Meat. Thanks for the info. FWIW, I used to race local xc with Lexie Coulter. Those girls are a lot faster than what normal people would expect. Maybe "fast" isn't the word, it's consistency from the first lap to the last. I can only imagine racing with Ballance, Borich and those guys.

well yea, your at a pretty low elevation. 22cc would be fine but if I were you and wanted to keep the most bang for pump gas, I'd go with 21cc domes. You'll be fine with those and it'd be an improvement over stock. 22cc domes would be equiv. to stock. Go with 21cc domes.

Again, desired power delivery is very important to consider when looking for new pipes. Good all around pipes IMO for a setup like yours would be: FMF Fatties (killer, inexpensive, all-around power) Toomey T5s (good strong midrange and top end power, a tad peaky) CPIs (super strong top end drag style pipes, not a lot of low end) The Paul turners are good pipes, especially the Hi Revs and would work well for you but in a setup like yours, they will sacrifice a little peak hp for smoothness. For me, I'd probably be fine with that but I'm not sure what your goals are. The PT Hi Revs are my very favorite pipe. The lowend on them is almost as good as the Mids but the midrange and top end is killer and they are wicked smooth for what they offer. The CPIs would definitely make more power but in a very narrow powerband deal and wouldn't be smooth at all. There's always a trade off, you just have to figure out how and where you want the power.

as was sort of said. an 18cc dome at sea level is a different animal than an 18cc dome at 6000' elevation in the mountains. So, what the fuel requirements are and all depend A LOT on the elevation and the discussion is all irrelevant until the elevation is specified. If your at a higher elevation and you throw 22 cc domes in there, your going to lose power a lot.

also, you'll probably want a much richer needle than what is normally stocked in the PWKs. Do you know what needles you have in there? The first digit is the taper and controls 1/2 to 3/4/just about full throttle positions, higher in the alphabet is richer, so an EEK would be richer than a DEK. In my experience, getting the richer taper helps with the transition on fuel hungry motors and also helps with not having to get so crazy on the mains. Definitely worth a check, remember there's a lot more to a carb than just main jets, in fact, the needle does 80% of the carb's function.

On the single carb setup, when compared to the stock carbs, you'll have more top end but the low end and midrange will be awesome; you'll have a smoother more linear powerband than before. it's a highly underrated setup and works killer.

If it's coming on while your hitting the throttle, try raising the needle 1 clip or even 2, you can always put it back. Pay close attention tot he throttle position, if its fine until you hit WOT, then it's more likely to be the main and you'll want to switch that. The needles are easy to play with so just try that real quick and see if it helps.

My vote would also be for the 2-1 setup. You'll have much smoother, more linear power with the added bottom end and killer midrange, along with more top end over the stock carbs as well. If your dead set on dual carbs, the 28mm would be the ticket. Any bigger and you risk narrowing the powerband which will make you work harder on the track.

It's worth the $30 to have it done.

heavier flywheel will help with spin but won't let it rev as good, IMO. How are you launching, 1st or 2nd gear. I'd say try to gear up your front sprocket to a 15t and launch second gear. Gearing up will help the spin out of the hole and let you cover more ground quicker and that'll help against the 450 because he's going to get you out of the hole so this will help you overcome that. Compression is a plus, either get your head milled (cheap) or get a Noss head (better route but more $$$). The next step would be some porting, that will help in the power dept. A LOT. If your not getting him now, I doubt the addition of +4 timing is really going to make much difference. It's a nice mod, makes the motor snappier for race setup but not sure it does much on the overall power/accel deal. What kind / size of tires and wheels are you currently running in the rear? What are the mods to the 450r? That will help us figure out what to do to get him? The 450r's are typically slower "out of the box" that the other 450s but can be made to run just as fast as any of the others... I'm pushing 58hp with mine and it takes a pretty strong Banshee to stay in line with me; but I have A LOT of time and effort put into the motor. To sum up, for what you have now: 1) Gear the front sprocket to a 15t 2) Get some rear tires that will hook up better 3) Practice, practice, practice your 2nd gear launches 4) Ready for more power : Compression and porting

glad y'all found the same humor in it that I did. :biggrin:

Ok, I know this is the wrong forum but thought it was funny. But considering the "mods", this could be the right section. Click the link and read the description... sounds like a winner. http://dallas.craigslist.org/mcy/405986522.html

hate to see you sellin it after all the work put into it. wish I had the spare coin to pick it up.