sredish

maybe i was mistaken. i assumed that you had tried idle adj. and were still having problems. if you haven't tried the idle adjustment on the side of the carb then yea, that needs to be adjusted. it is common to have problems with the idle speed on some 2-1 carbs due to the lack of vacuum and it'll idle slow slow and almost want to stall. and in some cases, you can bury that idle screw and it won't raise the idle any. but, yea try the idle screw. :biggrin:

to some extent but I doubt he's running something crazy. Probably 20s or 21s and either way, I'd run a 15t up front. that's how I ran mine and it ran really well with the 21" haulers I had. I've never had someone regret I talked them into a 15t front. Now, if he's running something really tall then 15 isn't going to work but he shouldn't be running something that tall to begin with so if he is, then he should sell them and get some properly sized tires.

Here's what I did with mine. I also trimmed some stuff of which I can't remember totally. heel guard mounts maybe, shoot, been awhile. I know I trimmed off unnecessary stuff.

can you show us a picture of where you drilled it? Most likely, you can get some jb weld and close the hole smoothly, just don't let any get to the inside of the carb. you'll probably want to do that with the carb off or at least with the slide out so you can see inside where the hole pokes through.

yes, but it does give you more braking power, even in your daily, however it's harder to tell when it's going through a power brake system as compred to a hand lever on a 350lb. machine. rather than the excess pressure pushing / expanding the rubber tubing. With stainless lines, your getting 100% of the line pressure to your pads, where before, you may have been getting 60%. Lots of time and experience with the banshee and I assure you, if your calipers and pads are in good shape, upgrading to stainless lines will give more stopping power. Change the lines and pads, order them at RMATV and you should be happier. You can always upgrade to the YFZ calipers but you'll be powering them through the crappy Banshee lines and not getting full power. One of the positive brake upgrades on the YFZ, and other newer quads, are higher quality lines, not just caliper upgrades.

stainless lines are a MUST on a banshee. That should give you plenty more braking power.

A pipe swap is the quickest way. First off, the 2-1 carb is not going to work well with those pipes. I'd consider a set of FMF Fatties (not Gnarlies) or maybe even T5s. I'm personally not a Toomey fan but they'll have a smoother power delivery than the Shearers, just a tad less topend. Your 33mm carbs are holding you back on the lowend. If I were you, I'd go to a pair of 28s or 30s and that'll help to. Again, changing the pipes will cost you a little top end but you'll more than make up for it in the bottom and mid and you'll have a quad that hookups better, comes out of the hole better and is easier to ride. I'm a huge fan of the 2-1 carb but it does have it's application and from what I can tell, you'd probably be better suited with a smaller pair of duals. Also, Fatties are generally underrated. They're great pipes to have on a stockbore ported motor. They respond very well to porting and produce a nice overall powerband. 14t up front is fine, I would not go any smaller with your mods. I actually prefer a 15t front sprocket on a stockbore ported motor and I'd suggest you try a 15t with 2nd gear starts. It should let you come out of the hole quicker with more traction and make up ground faster.

Hey Brian. Bringing this back up for ya. This should be a must do for any banshee owner. What a killer deal you have going, don't think everyone realizes how nice of a setup this would be. You get 1) stronger a-arms, 2) better handling and stability with increased travel with better shock possibilities and finally 3) all for a third of the cost of an aftermarket setup. I do have one question. What modifications need to be performed for the spacers and arms to work on a Banshee? How difficult are the mods as well? I'm actually banshee-less at the moment but am interested in getting another one soon and I'd hate to miss an opportunity to set it up nicely.

agreed. there should be some sort of award!

If I were you, I'd look for a set of PT Hi Revs. They'll perform really well with your stroker; similar to what you have now but a lot better rev out. I wasn't quite the fan of the Midranges like I was the Hi Revs. The midranges are awesome pipes for sure, but I like a little better rev out and the Hi Revs deliver. IMO, they're as smooth as the midranges, a tad less low end but come on strong as hell and rev good. WIth the stroker, it'll work well with the midrange pull and help broaden the topend.

actually, on some 2-1 carb setups, there's a low idle issue. I've experienced it in probably 30% of the 2-1 carb setups I've worked with. it has to do with low rpm vacuum and the idle screw adjustment. trying to remember what I used to do to fix it... something about using a longer screw or something, can't quite remember. i'll think about it.

sweet. let us know how they work out!

"cub" is specific to the cylinders. so, a +4 cub would be a +4 crank with cub cylinders. tear it all down to the frame. knock all the excess crap off the frame and get the frame PC'ed and then PC the swinger. while the motor's out, send the jugs off for porting, order some pistons and work on the crank while the jugs are being worked on and then put the motor back together. lots of work but you can do it quickly. you can have it down to the frame in a day. it'll take a day to put it back together. totally doable in a few weeks, dependant on the porting turnaround. just think:

I miss my banshee.

i misread it as a single 36mm. if your running dual 36mm then your going to fight hell getting it jetted right. you'll need a huge main to get it rolling to a decent rpm... pull em off of there and go back to the stockers or sell them and buy some 28s or 30s. then port the motor.

gonna have less vacuum with the 36mm and it'll be harder to jet. should still work tho but you'll have to work harder at it.

aaaah. what does NYUK know? :cool:

if your already replacing the crank, go with the +4 and never look back. It'll be a little more in the long run but it'll be so much mo betta....!

Matt, I'd love to take a spin on that quad of yours.... RZ jugs with some PT Hi Revs..... I bet thing has a really nice powerband and runs hard!

ahahaha, I'm starting to feel that way myself... :happy: Haven't raced with Borich on the track tho, that'd be fun. So, you had three chances to put him in a tree.....

PWKs are the chit, for sure; especially AirStrykers.

at 3000' he may want to go back to the DEK needle. try a 180 main and see how it works there. if you need to go leaner, then swap back to the DEK and start over again with the 190....

i say screw the dynojet needles.... they've never been worth a flip.

who ended up buying Rocket?

do it like loco said. you don't have to cut the plug, just look at the porcelain and down inside the porcelain. actually, i've never once "chopped" a plug but I know where and how to look at the plug. an old way of doing it is to jet richer slowly until you start to get some rich sputter, then back it off a tad. thats a rough way to do it but works if your that worried.