sredish

I had the very best machine, an Honda ATC 110. That was the most fun and probably most dangerous toy I could have had. It later progressed into a 350x and then a lt250r. I had the 250r until I was 20.

It all depends on the setup. Motocross bikes are setup to run hard and hot under acceleration and cool when they are off the throttle somewhat so it helps keep the bike from burning up. Under that setup, if you back off the throttle, as you would on the trail, then the bike will be running too rich for that type of riding. My lt250r was setup that way, I really had to watch idling and slowpoking around. If you set it up for trail riding or less agressive riding, you won't have the top end so lean and you won't have the bottom end so rich, it will be a happy medium. If your letting a shop do the work, just tell them how you like to ride and that you will be riding trails and your concerned about the fouling plugs issue. They can easily set it up so you'll never have a problem. I've had my banshee for awhile now, and I have never ever ever fouled a plug. That sounds strange even to me but I haven't. Right now, in the winter, it smokes a little on startup (due to the Castor 927) when its cold, but it doesn't foul plugs. There is absolutely no reason it should foul plugs. If you set it up with performance accessories that help the midrange, as I have, and you will have a great trail performer. Good luck with your purchase.

Now you tell me, after I've spent all that money on the Elkas. Oh well, I guess I'll just keep my old beater Elkas. Seriously, that sounds like a cool idea, if only there was a way to extend the upper shock mount to allow the bike to droop a little more in the front.

I'm using a Renthal R3 o-ring chain with a Renthal sprocket up front. I have the 15 tooth up front, with the std. 104 links. I still have the stock 41 in back and am going to try that and a 42 in the rear and see how I like them. I'm done messing with the front, if I want stock gearing, I'll get a 44 in back. The front sucks with the nerf bars and all getting them on and off and all that crap.

It's done. Didn't add link, didn't grind anything. I used the bar and it suddenly started to pivot real slow. I lubed and worked it loose. Now its loose likes its supposed to be. I just used a little more persuasion with the bar. Thanks for all the help guys. I appreciate it. Now I just need to wait till morning to go and ride. I may end up with another tooth on the back. But I ain't changing the front no more. Too much of a PITA with the nerfs and cover and all. THanks again. Scott

I think that 1 link is all that would be necessary. However, I haven't gotten the axle to pivot forward yet. I think that when I get it moved there should be enough room on this chain, I don't really think that I need to add a link, although it might be an easier way, especially if it stretches more.

... and add it to the chain or replace a link? If you replaced a link you would be at the same length but if you add a second master-link it would be one link longer. I would think this hold fine. Me I would go get a new chain of proper length. But I am real anal retentive about my stuff. beware of flying Ninjamasters with streetsweepers! What I meant, is would I have enough room for adjustment if I add another link.? I know you can't tell over the internet and this is a trial and error issue, but I was just wondering what your opinions and experiece is? I appreciate all the feedback. Its cold here and I've been too busy to get in there and finish it up, I'll give it a go in a few hours.

... and add it to the chain or replace a link?

Thanks, I'll check that also. I didn't see it hanging up on anything, but I'll check to be sure.

Where, in the adjustment slots on the bottom, where the 12mm bolts are?

Yea, haven't thought of that. Thats a good idea.

Well, I can get the chain halfway on, and I rotated the axle to try to "persuade" it the rest of the way on, and it was popping off so I quit as not to damage the chain. I also tryed the prybar from the top and a little from the bottom to rotate the carrier. I didn't put too much pressure, cause I didn't want to bang it up too bad, but if thats what I need to do and I'm not in any danger of bending those bars, then I'll get a little more persuasive. Thanks for the quick responses. All the adjusters are loose and reloosened. I have checked them probably fifty times, thinking Caspers tightening them when I'm not looking. I've sprayed hell out of them also. There's at least an inch between the adjusters and the stop, where the adjusters hit, maybe an inch and a half. There should be room on this chain, I did have the chain on the 14 tooth and I'm fairly positive it will handle the 15. I had it dang near buried out on the 13.

I'm taking out the 13 tooth in the front and replacing with a 15 tooth. I can't seem to get the axle moved to put enough slack in the chain. I know how to adjust and I've been around the block, but I haven't had this problem before. I wd40 the pivot points, but just can't get it to move. This is the worst thing about my banshee, the stupid chain adjustment. Anyone have any helping ideas. A simple gear change has turned into a real PITA. I haven't messed with gearing too much, but went from stock to 13 teeth. I hated that, especially with the midrange mods, impossible to keep traction. Anyone have any tips on a much quicker approach to gear changes? Thanks, Scott

Thats freakin great....

Wife just got a new F150 supercrew. Now I'm in the market for 20's or 22's. I'm gonna level the rear, but I'm not sure how big I can go on the tires, being that I'm not used to this type of tire size. Any suggestions? or pics of this setup?

Bignasty that sucks. Hope all is well after that harness. Have you checked the compression to see whats goin on inside??? Seriously, good luck. I'm sure it'll work out.

The worst thing for me about going taller is..... it's only temporary. Get 3 inches, then I want 6. Another few months, and then I'll want to go to 10. I suppose its that way with anything, just like these quads, get the pipe, then you want a head, then a port job.... on and on and on. Here's my problem. I've always had 4.10 gears in my axles, well this one time, I get sick of the mpg and go with 3.73. All of a sudden I find myself wanting 6" of lift. I have 3" and with the 35" tires, my gearing is already around 3.55 or something (can't remember exactly). So I'm adding another 3" and what else am I going to do with the tires except go taller?? Of course, theres only one option here. I am going to have to sink 2Gs into the axles. There is no way of going bigger without lowering the gears. And, theres no way I'm breaking into the axles without throwing in a set of air lockers. Air lockers mean air compressor. Which means I'll have to do that right and get a good tank so I can run tools and air tires. Not to mention, I have dual rears. To go taller means wider, which I can't do on my present rims. New rims to go with the tires. :x Where does it stop? So you can see what my $49 leafs and bolts got me. A lot deeper than $49. :?

Sorry QuadMX, let me correct my post. I was in a hurry and got a little ahead of myself. You can get the IFS conversion setup for around a grand, my friend bought one for his Chev and paid $1150. Then you find yourself an axle and tcase, and get your driveshaft. With the driveshaft you will probably be closer to 2k. You just have to look some and find deals. They are always in the last place you'd think. I can find Dana 44 30 splines around here for $200, just have to look a little, and the 9" Ford are relatively easy to find. If your gonna run big tires (like boonman's dodge), I'd move up to a Dana 60. A little more money but you can still find a deal now and then. I'm not too sure on the how much to expect for a tcase from a donor, probably 4 bills. Boonman, how much for a case? Yea, they are not the simplest of jobs. Oh, and that $49 is with the u-bolts.

For around a grand, you can exchange those pukey a-arms to nice solid axle, of your choice, just go find one. I'm adding another 3 inches to my current 3 inch lift on my '01 F350. Total cost per axle = $49.00. Oh, and its all suspension, no crappy blocks.

Nothing like a nice clean lift with some good meats. 4x4 is always a must.

Or maybe not...

I think it has a lot to do with rider height. I like the CR Hi and am 6'3". You guys running CR Low, how tall are you? This is something to keep in mind also.

Quad bend sucks. :x

No, it'll be here for a few more.

I think the CR Hi bend is a little more comfortable, but still low enought to shit and git...