sredish

If I was going to sand 100%, I'd probably go to the ever popular T5s or maybe T6s. Now NOS, I could handle that.

Hondas and Suzis coming to BHQ and saying they'll rip our shit and wanting to get us all flamed.

Thanks master. One more thing, an outrageous 17/38 with 22" tires is at 105 at 9k rpm. With 20" tires you'd need a 18/38 to get it to 101 at 9k rpm. I don't think a stock shee can pull these gears, call me crazy.

Well, I don't putt putt around all day, that's for damn sure, and if your talking straight sand all the time, I sure as hell wouldn't have fatties either. If your gonna build a bike for the dunes, theres a lot of shit I'd do differently, but thats not how I want my bike setup. I may lose 5hp from some other setup, but I sure as hell didn't lose 5hp from the stock carbs. On the other hand, I feel my bike does just fine in the sand, and it setup just the way I want it. Like I said before, to each is his own, and thats what makes this so great, is anything is obtainable. There is something there for everyone, and not everyone rides sand 100% of the time.

Thanks, I'm sure thats where I got it. Scott

(like the hemi boys) sweeeett

I don't know about dropping a tooth. I went from 14 to 13 just to try and I was spinning all the time, by the time I got traction again, it was time to shift. I've since went to a 15 front and it has made all the difference. I'd say a 15/41 or a 15/40 would be ideal for general purpose.

I've got the Excel sheet where you enter the rear tire size, front sprocket, rear sprocket, and it will spit out the gear ratio, speeds at each rpm in each gear, from 1k to 11k rpms. If you know your redline you'll know exactly what ratio you need to get what you want. Very cool, and I play with it all the time. I can email it to anyone that wants it. Just let me know.

I second that. What the hell is plastic for, but to take the abuse.

I'd sure like to have your lt250r. I sure miss mine.

First off, are you having a problem, or are you just worried about it? Second, you shouldn't be fouling plugs. Make sure your air filter is clean first and then, if you are fouling plugs then there is a problem with the jetting. To check the plugs, get on the bike and make sure its at operating temp (warmed up)and run it at wide open throttle to at least 5th gear. I mean totally wide freaking open. Then when the rpms are up pretty good, pull clutch and immediately kill motor. Stop and pull both plugs to see what color they are. They should be dark dark brown, borderline black but not oily. Look for the color past the tip, down inside at the base. If it is really oily and black, then your main jet is too rich, you need to come down a little. If its fine, and your only fouling plugs when idling or 1/4 throttle, then you need to adjust your pilot jet down some and see if that helps. If you have any problems changing the jets or messing with this, then you may have to let your dealer help you with it some, or have a buddy help you and teach you. Third, if it is new and bone stock and your having a problem with fouling, then the dealership should correct that free of charge, it's called warranty. I may have fouled one plug since I've owned it, but I can't remember when, and remember, always carry two extra plugs.

Like I said, "If you get into some heavy porting and such, you may need some more air, but for stock internals, you can't beat it." Most builders port, polish, stroke and yank. If you get into that, this isn't the setup for you, but for stock internals, it will really help. Also, it is very important to get your jetting dialed in, I don't mean close, I mean dialed the fu*k in. If you haven't been around a fast single carb, it's 100% because they don't have their sh*t dialed in, or their setup is totally wrong. If you don't believe that, I'll prove it to you.

The LE has black everything, chassis, plastic wheels, and even black pipes. Your idea sounds pretty good, I've always wanted to powder mine blue, and I really like that chick on the avatar. Makes me want to do something very bad to her.

I'll post this sweet website again. Painting ATV Plastic.

That would be a sweet setup. I really like the arms on the yfz.

have you checked the spark plug under wide-open-throttle? That is really the only way to tell. No one can really tell you what you can run, you have to see how your shee is running. Take it out where you can get some speed and run it in 5th or 6th with the throttle wide freaking open, and kill the motor. Then check your plugs and it will tell you if your rich or lean. Also, if you want more power, get some pipes.

I agree with Mr.Matt.Increase your compression.Go for an aftermarket head. I third that. The high compression head will help put your shee through the paces. I'd recommend an aftmkt, not milling. Milling is cheaper, but will help your banshee get hot, and an aftmkt might not be cooler, but the extra cooling in it will help offset the extra heat from the compression. Go Noss or Coolhead, or even Vitos. After that, carbs and porting come to mind. If you do have porting in mind, make sure you consider that when thinking of carbs.

dude you are so full of shit. I have rode mine wide open stock and slightly moded for much further than a 1/4 mile down hill even and lucky to hit 80. how can you come on a site called BANSHEE HQ and expect people to belive that shit? Well, you'd have to be running a 17 tooth up front and a 41 tooth in back, or a 16/40 with 20" tires, and thats 104 mph at 11,000 rpm, but at 8,000 rpm thats a mere 75.5 mph. A 15/41 with 22" tires, will give you a 105 mph at 11,000 rpm, but at 8,000 rpm your running 76 mph. I don't believe a stock banshee will get much over 8k or 9k rpm, not sure exactly. Not too mention you'd have to have some cool power to pull that last little bit. Not going to happen with a stock shee. I'm sure someone can help me out on the rpm info of a stock and modded shee. I need to get a tach for my bike.

Yes, it is the black screw knob, and if I remember correctly (its been so long), clockwise for increased rpm. Good purchase, you'll be happy when you get it all setup.

If its stock and you've been running it, and it all of a sudden starts fouling. Chances are, your air filter is full of crap. My 500 4x4 is really bad about that. It has to be sparkling clean or its wanting to foul. I'm in the process of fixing that though. If you have any problems or issues at all, and don't know how. Take it to your local dealer and have them help you. Most decent dealers will help you through it.

thread whore

Thats what I run also. Don't you just love how the bolt holes line up with the peg's holes?? I use a long crowbar and run it through the nerf from underneath and pry against the stock nerf mount to push it backwards and get one bolt threaded w/o the peg. Then I will thread the other bolt through the peg, and when thats threaded somewhat, I'll remove the first bolt and pivot the peg and reinstall the bolt with the peg in it. Then tighten. Oh boy, what fun. Overall, though, I like them. Just a bitch to get back on when removed.

to answer your question, you may be somwhere close. But chances are, you will have to change your jetting somewhat. If the pipes came with recommendations, then you might oughta just pop that in and see where your at. Best thing to do, is to run it, WOT test, and see where your at, that is the only way to tell how much change is needed. Also, remember to check when shee's warmed up.

Well, I wouldn't say the banshee is a lugging machine. If the temp change is drastic, you may have to adjust the jetting a little. Most run between 32:1 and 40:1, and adjust a little due to temp and conditions.

Maybe you did, but the fellas I ride with wish I would have. I gained a lot on the bottom and mid, serious amounts, but I also gained on the top, just not as drastic. People think you lose on the top, but you don't. Its just that the mid hits so hard that the top doesn't seem as strong as it was. I am a huge believer in the single setup. If you get into some heavy porting and such, you may need some more air, but for stock internals, you can't beat it. IMO. Plus, jetting is a 30 second ordeal and it is so clean in the engine area. But, to each is his own, or whatever the f*ck.