sredish

I some of you modding up the banshee with parts from the rz. Is there a benefit on using rz parts? What about the motor, is there something special about the motor that is beneficial to it versus banshee components? I wasn't very old when the rz was around and I don't know much about it, just wanting to try to learn a little more about the pluses and minuses. Scott

If you can't figure it out, send the bike to me. I'll take care of it for you. Nah, I really like those machines.

I'm a silkolene person myself for the gear oil. Castor for the premix, and PJ1 for the chain, and air filter duties.

aaaah, don't listen to him. come over to our side.

Very very nice. I just sold my totally macked out 7.3 for a new 6.0. I'm just getting started on that thing. I'm a dealer for Western Diesel and Diesel Performance Parts (DPPI). Through these two, I can get about anything. Holla if you need something, or just want to get rid of that piece of crap BB turbo... I doubt the reason he spanked em all was the difference of an air filter. Scott

Honestly, I like to have a really hot girl riding with me and feeding me while we ride.

The iridium tip is the hottest burning tip. They've use it in commercial engines for years, but normally its so expensive that it's no good for normal use. NGK came out with this just recently. Also, the tip is the smallest tip of any spark plug and reduces the voltage needed for an equal spark. Like a&s said, it's not that much more money, when you consider the amount of money we put into these things. Phast, if you figure they're all going to foul sooner or later, the iridium would be much later if ever. It burns so hot, that the oil doesn't pool up like the typical plug. I've always been against marketing plugs like splitfire and the bosch with 4 electrodes or whatever. I honesty could tell a difference when I switched to this plug. Especially cold starting. Here's a quote regarding the iridium:

If they're the FMF Rad valves, their the same as a ported stock cage. Thats what FMF did for a long time, and thats why they quit making them, 'cause people caught on. I'm not saying their bad, they're just modified/ported stock cages with fmf reeds and a red/orange box.

I run a aftmkt service for diesel motors, mainly pstroke, dmax, and cummins. Its a very very small company, however, I do a lot of research with different companies to find out what works and what doesn't. With the trucks, its proven that the k&n does not filter like the gauze type filters or some of the other filters. They breathe really well to begin with, but after they have some dirt on them, their breathing goes way way down. A gauze type filter breathes really good, just not quite as much as a k&n, however, as the gauze gets more dirt on it, the breathability is barely reduced, in fact, it can become quite saturated with dirt and still breathe almost as good as when it was clean, where in this situation, the k&n is stopped up. I haven't really seen gauze filters for atvs, but I wish they'd start producing. The baja trucks and such use gauze as their filtering, I guess unless they're sponsored by k&n. I believe this is the reason the pro bikes don't use the k&n, due to the fact that they quit flowing much quicker. The foam will continue to breathe when somewhat dirty, where the k&n won't. Not too mention, the k&n will allow fine dirt particles through, especially when not oiled properly, which alot of poeple are guilty of, especially in the truck world.

get rid of the stock cages altogether and get you some vforce reeds. you won't be sorry. some people think they are pricey, but everyone that has them would buy them all over again.

The Dyna ignition will adjust timing according to a preset curve to gain the best performance. It would provide similar results to advancing the timing using a timing plate. However, with one big difference, it is designed and tested to advance in certain areas and different degrees to provide optimum performance. You wouldn't want to run the ignition with a plate that was advanced. You can also design your own timing curve and load it into the ignition to provide customized performance.

I recommend the use of NGK Iridium plugs. BR8EIX. They have a hotter spark and help burn the oil, rather than foul. They'll help prevent fouling, and if your in a situation where your running a tad rich, like going up north for a weekend, it will help run harder. Scott

Yes, I think the razrs hook up better on harder ground. I like them equally well as the holeshots on softer terrain. Plus you get the cool red logo.

go to the Trinity Website and find the cv kit. Match the pieces your buying with whats shown on the website. If something doesn't look right, then take a closer look. I'm not sure if the 38mm carb is widely offered with that kit, sounds to me like someone has added that to it, or ordered it special. Make sure the boots are sized to fit.

the reed valves are on the cylinder side of the intake manifold. They control the way the air enters the cylinder and different reeds open and close differently and at different rpms. This affects the way the motor will perform. The vforce reeds are a great match with the cv single carb setup. The vforce can be adjusted to help the top end or the mid. When adjusted for mid power, they really help out with response and there is a good seat-of-the-pants feel with the addition of the vforce reeds. These reeds also incorporate a spacer into the reed cage, which promotes low/mid power. I'm sure someone can give you a much more technical response as to how they work, but that is a pretty much gives you the jist.

The K&N breathes better than foam, so the K&N is better for performance. There is some that say they let more dirt in the foam, and some say they don't. I'm part of the they let dirt in club. When I use foam, I have to clean more often than with the K&N, so my theory tells me that the foam catches more dirt. I don't know. If your concerned with the power, and wanting the most performance, stay with the K&N. If your concerned with the cleanliness, or if your in an exceptionally dirty environment, then consider the foam. Scott

its in my locked shop which is on my ranch thats secured by a locked gate that requires a code, not too mention my dogs will eat their ass.

Yep, if your not going to top it out and want the extra oomph down low, the gnarlies might just be the pipe of choice for you. Also, in my opinion, get the stator plate, i'm not fond of keys. I haven't done that because I'm wanting to run a Dyna ignition, but its supposed to be a very gratifying mod. Good luck with it.

The oring is a seal around the links to keep dirt out. The x ring is similar but it uses a seal shaped like an x, and it is supposed to keep out dirt better. Technically, it provides a tad more resistance than the oring, but you'd never know. They're both good chains, just make sure to get a chain with over 7,000 lbs of tension.

I'd sell you mine shipped for $50, but I need my hi watt replacement first.

very carefully...

See all the mods that Spoin has? It will get up a little faster than that.

The problem seems to be that your overheating, and when it overheats, it boils over and out the overflow tube and onto your pipes. Figure out why its overheating and you'll solve your problem. I wouldn't go ride it too much until you figure out if and how its overheating. The first place I'd look for in an overheating banshee is the water pump impeller, these are notorius for breaking. The banshee likes to run warm under normal circumstances anyway. Get some Engine Ice coolant to use, that will help, get an impeller from Pro Design, its much stronger and flows a lot better. Also check your plugs for running lean, which is a very very bad thing. If its running lean, then your engine will get hot and overheat. You will need to adjust your jetting to fix that. These are a few places to start. Give it a look and keep us informed, we'll help you out.

If you want any sort of bottom end, don't get any toomeys. Toomeys are great pipes, but not for mid/bottom end. I'd recommend Paul Turner mids, from Duncan racing, or for a less inexpensive route, FMF Fattys. Fattys are a great bang for the buck. They have pretty good bottom, great mid, and pull out on top. Next, I'd get some VForce reeds, they'll help out in response and mid somewhat. After that, maybe a coolhead for increased compression. Good luck, and have fun. Scott