sredish

most kits recommended for quads are wet kits.

just drill it to 3/4" and buy one of those to feed that big hoss you call a banshee. i remember when you had a nice little small banshee all cute and cuddly..... what the F happened???? :evil:

400rednEX, how long ago did you get your Gorr port? I know he was MIA for awhile (in UK or something) but wondering if you got yours after or before the hiatus.

this is PURELY a guess but if my memory serves me correctly, it's 3/8". Don't order off of that, I'm just adding a simple guess. BTW, nice to see ya BigBoy!

Yep, i can see you barrelin down the desert on that big arse beast...... :biggrin:

sounds like a vent or float issue.

PT Hi Revs is what I was going to suggest. It is 100% my favorite Banshee pipe. They have a nice smooth delivery and pull very hard from the midrange to the top end. The CPIs might have a tad more overall top end rev out but they are a drag pipe. For a dune bike, the PT Hi Revs are hard to beat. The price and rarity is why you don't see them as often. I personally am not a fan of T5s. I've tried them and ran them for a bit but was glad to get rid of them; too on/off lightswitchy. The PT Hi's are way smoother and to me have the same top end with more mid. The "hit" isn't near as hard but some people look for that "hit" for evidence of power. Duncan Racing sells them as well as a few other online retailers, but kinda harder to find.

only options are lean, rich and right on! :happy: Put in some 300s, maybe 290s if your elevation is a little higher . Needle in the 4th clip and 27.5 pilots to start. Sometimes the T5s like a richer (30) pilot so keep that in mind.

Well, 220 is lean for a piped, no-lid banshee. If it's not then you have some other issues going on, which is possible. Are you sure the carbs are synced properly? Are you sure you don't have any air leaks causing a sporadic issue? What's the largest main jet you've tried thus far? It's all in throttle position. Get the WOT testing done with the main jet and plug checking, then from there work on the needle. Only do one thing at a time and work slowly. I still say, throw a set of 290s in there and see what happens.

sometimes but with the larger 2-1 carb setup, theres just not enough vacuum to pull the full out to get it to idle properly, it's either idling really slow and kinda loping from wanting to stall or idling way high in order to keep it going. its just one of those common side effects of running one large carb for a pair of cylinders.

theres lots actually. Lonestar comes to mind. I really liked my Lonestars. Is Quicksand still around? For trails, I wouldn't go any wider than +2.

yep. +2+1 is wide enough. only reason I'd go to +3+1 is if I was racing desert but I wouldn't go that wide with YFZ shocks unless you were going to be replacing them soon.

good info, are they longer as well?

Whats your elevation? I would get some 290s, take the lid off, and put the needles at the 3rd or 4th clip from the top and see how it runs. 220 is too lean with the lid on or off. Do that and see how it works.

If it has a DEJ with a low throttle position dead spot... what position is the clip in? Try and raise it a few more clips, but if it's raised a lot already you might try changing. I would buy a DGH and an EEJ and then start experimenting with what works best. Needles are the single most important and most overlooked aspect of the carb. It controls everything in one way or another except for idle, it can also have an affect on WOT as well. If your having a dead lean spot low in the throttle then you either 1) need to raise the needle more, 2) get a smaller diameter needle or 3) get a shorter needle. Well, with a DEJ, you already have the short needle. So, you can get a smaller diameter needle, the DGH which will help mostly from idle to 1/4. The EEJ has more taper and will help richen the 1/4 to 3/4 but mostly from 1/2 to 3/4. They all will affect the other areas a little but it's an experimentation thing with needles, to find one that your bike likes. If it were me, I'd go straight to the DGH with the smaller diameter and raise the needle up. Again, I'm going to say you'll have some troubles getting dead spots out of the low end due to the lack of vacuum with such a large carb. Your likely to never get it perfect with a 39mm, especially w/o porting.

Get some roll design pegs, a +2 stem with some nice wide bars and rotate them forward some. you won't feel near as cramped.

sounds lean to me. if it's on full throttle, go up on the mains. if it cuts out before he gets to full throttle, with an agressive punch on the throttle, then you should raise the needles a clip or two. you might try the needles first as it's easy to get to and you can do it quickly. has he done a WOT plug run?

yea, if its the one I'm thinking, there should be a rubber plug deal in there.

the only way I know to do a bake off is to bake some cookies and have your neighbor bake some cookies then let your friends decide whose is best.... :thumbsup: What exactly are you trying to do, pc something or remove some pc. if your trying to take pc off, then use a sandblaster.

:thumbsup:

Fullbores suck.... especially in red... j/k Fireball ...... :evil:

back it off to 390s and see how it runs through the throttle. you also might try leaning the needle clip a tad by lowering the needle and see if that helps.

he must've paid full price for the high end Toomeys $699, then paid $400 for the install; which is crazy but that's the only way I can figure it. Not sure on the $450 racing clutch and surely they didn't charge him 4 bills for an axle install.

can you or someone post a pic of the cascade 2-1 carb kit? I've never heard of it or seen it and can't find anything about it on the net.

what about the tank vent line, it's not restricted is it? could be the carb vent tubes or floats. does it fire back up after it sits for a sec? if you think there's water in the lines, just drain and put new stuff in.