sredish

well, i'll check my manual in a sec, for some reason, I can't remember how the bulbs are actually in place. It's been awhile I guess. I'll post back shortly if no one else hurries up and chimes in. I thought it just twisted out of the socket or something. Damn memory.

The easiest way is to take them off and beat them with a hammer, then get you some hellas. Or, take the headlight out of the mount (unscrew the one bolt at the bottom) and from there you'll see how to get into it from the back, if I remember correctly. Scott

I use a Maxima mix bottle to mix with. I put in the amount I need and put on the cap. When I'm ready to mix, I just pour into the jug and then the fuel. The cap is nice and you can keep it in there until you need it. Of course, I don't store oil in there, but if I need to transport a little bit for later use, it's way easy. Scott

hmm. we will be requiring pics at every stage of completion.

Nope, '05 model year and that's it for any chance of getting them new. The '05s start in the fall and when they're gone, they're gone. Oops, I feel tears coming.

your cdi could've shit the bucket. that's not totally uncommon on these machines. that's definitely what I'd check into.

it's going to sell a shitload cause of the new design and looks. hell, they could keep everything the same, throw some fancy plastics on it and only a quarter of the people would know its the same bike. they'd say man, this one's much faster. i don't really like the new "alien" look that the raptor, yfz, predator, suzi/kawi400, 450r all have, granted the 450r looks the most different. i personally think the yfz looks the best, but i'm ready for something different. you can damn sure tell when a banshee is coming at ya.

oh yeah, for the ps2, already completed the world tournaments, and busted tiger's ass. i'm halfway through the pga and have all the damn equip i can buy and my money's loading up. I have like 3 or 4 mil at the moment and all my stats are maxed. they need some hoopties and shit you can buy also. tpc scottsdale is fun on that game, i like the british course, whats the name, St. Andrews. I can pound that course. that game kicks serious ass.

they'll help your application. just find a local machine shop that will do it. I actually am not too familiar with who does it nationally. someone else could probably chime in and help you out with where, or call your local race store and tell them what you want done and they should be able to help you.

well fix it... take the cover off of the clutch housing and take a peek inside and see if something has in fact broke. You might need a new clutch set, which will come with the springs and all.

i totally agree, although the hamster things kinda freak me out.

is that the case if the tors is already removed? i don't believe so. She was running twin 34mm PJs with the filter mounted right on the carb and the tors and connections have been long gone. I removed the pbrake from my machine so I could use a less obtrusive perch. I just removed the cable and the linkage from the rear caliper. While it would look better, I didn't use a block off plate.

Yeah, all the guys at my local stealership wear it. that's whats wrong with 'em!!

where are you guys looking at the plug. this is a great page to refer to when reading spark plugs. Reading spark plugs. On my machine, I don't care if it's black, if it looks a little rich but rips on wot, then leave it and begin playing with your pilot and needle. Actually, i adjust the needle very first (if it needs adjusting), then main, then pilot. If it looks rich and bogs a little, back it off till it quits bogging. The center electrode (very tip) should be black, although not oily, maybe trace amounts on your finger. the porcelain will be a medium grayish brown color and the base of the porcelain, inside the threads should be a dark brownish. if your sure it's somewhat on the rich side of the line, but running good, that's just the way I like it.

i agree totally. that carb setup will be a good dune/top end setup, but lug it down or don't keep the rpms up, I believe it could have the tendency to be a pig.

The PT Mids run the highest power of any mid pipe according to Banchetta. They are the strongest and very very good pipes. However, you do pay for them. I run Fatties myself and love them. I would've bought the PTs but, $$$. I'm too cheap. Plus, the fatties handle mods extremely well. The pro circuits are supposed to be an all around pipe, but they are more of a top end pipe than a mid pipe. The PT mids are way stronger in the midrange, and have a good top also.

it'll just open up the carb a little to allow some more air through, and in effect, allow you to put a throw some more fuel in. Yeah, it'll help your performance all around, but it will really depend on your other mods to whether it will be worth it. there's a small window to whether it will be worth it or not. if you have a lot of mods, you could handle bigger than ported stock carbs, so its your decision. i feel its one of those things you do and then later on end up buying new carbs anyway. just think of where you want your bike to be down the road and if the carbs ported are enough then do it, but if they're not, then save up and get some 30's. A lot of times it's better to start saving early knowing what you want, and when you see a deal on Ebay, or here, you can get a deal.

the 36s are sick on the 4mm with the right setup. hella good power.

is it bogging? if its running good and the plug looks a little dark, leave it. if its too rich for your blood and/or bogging, back it off one main at a time until it's exactly where you want it? checking at wot right? i wouldn't just jump from 280 to 240, unless it is seriously wet and fouling and nasty bogging. it's only a few sizes anyway. throw in the 270s and see how it is. make sure the machine is nice and warmed up and you've ridden a few minutes on it between changes to clean the plug. i usually start with the needles very first thing, unless i know where they're at. what position are the needles in? i would have them at least 3 from the top of the needle (blunt side). That will richen the main just a tad, maybe one size worth. Once the needle and main is where you want it, fine tune with the pilot, and you'll be set. Good luck and let us know how it worked out. FYI, I'm at like 600 or 800 feet. I have fatties, vforce and lid off and some other small insignificant items and was running 310 with my stock carbs. Just shows you that they all run a little different.

what about the tors wiring. There'd be enough of that to go around here and IdiotConnection. Poo, you can have mine though.

just right. i'm gonna place an order for an axle on monday. i'll probably be buying some new front tires pretty soon also. motor wise, shee's just the way i like her, strong and powerful in the beginning and finished to a nice sweet high.

no, or very insignificantly. 99.9% of the power made from the exhaust is in the pipes, the big fat section of a two-stroke pipe is where it's made. cutting your silencers would be more or less a waste of time.

well, depends on your mods. what pipes, reeds, head, porting, and anything else you know of? stock might be close, but if you have pipes, it sounds a little lean to me. i was at 185 main / 50 pilot for awhile with fatties, vforce reeds and open lid, and i just went up some. what clip is the needle in, should be no less than third from the top. you might need to adjust your air screw some also. when you put the motor back together did you inspect the reeds, the carb and all? did you use fresh plugs, and fresh gas? that might be a stupid question, but just wondering. get back to us on the mods and stuff and we can go from there.

so did it turn out to be the reeds? damn reeds. i feel for you. i haven't been on here much in the last day or so cause i've been trying to dial mine in a little bit.

damn sista, never saw your "moped" post. I just went and found it. Hate that you're having that much trouble, hopefully you and evil got it figured out. Let me know if I can help you. Scott