sredish

good deal. you should try and find a local bike with that guys porting and see if they'll let you ride it and see how it feels. you'll be super pleased with some good porting, it wakes the bike up considerably.

The mids are great pipes. They really are, super smooth, 4 stroke like bottom end and midrange. They produce the most lowend of any dual pipe. I will say they are a true midrange pipe and don't rev out much at all. However, due to the added lowend, they can be geared up quite a bit which is what I did with mine. I ran a 15 front tooth and swapped between a 38 and 39 rear sprocket depending on course. Rarely did I use the 40 rear with the PT mids. They are great pipes, however, I just ended up feeling like something was missing without the super rev out that the Banshee is known for.

I'm actually not a fan of the Toomey needles at all. Back in the past when I was on a lot, there were quite a few peeps having trouble with jetting their machines and Toomey needles were often times the culprit. And, unless somethings changed, the Toomey needle is nothing more than a Blaster needle.

+2 +1 Lonestars

yes, that'll do it. and again yes, 220s are too lean, hell, 250s are too lean. let us know if that fixes it or not.

whats the elevation where you ride. that'll make the most importance as to what cc domes to buy. if you talk to Dave about it when you purchase, he'll set you straight as well. Dave's a great guy and the Noss head is a great purchase. Click the link below and check out his little chart at the bottom that'll give you some compression ideas. Shoot for about 170 to 175 lbs. You don't want to get the compression up too much more than that as it'll do the nasty to your crank after a bit. If your sea level to 700 or 800 feet, 19s would work well, much over that, 18s would work good.

I have a local agent thats with State Farm and she'll insure it up to the amount you specify and then you pay a premium for that coverage amount. If I specify 10k and pay that premium and it's totaled or stolen, I'll get my 10k.

nice input Sandshots. Nice to see you over here!!!

As I'm sure we all know, vacuum is what pulls the fuel through the jets into the airstream to create the air/fuel mixture. Where the problem sometimes lies on the 2-1 setup is with having a single larger bore, rather than two small bores, the vacuum is diminished and has a harder time drawing the necessary fuel through to maintain a good idle speed. when you blip the throttle a little, opening the slide will allow for the motor to draw more. this can happen with a stock and a ported banshee alike, just depends all on setup. I never said every 2-1 bike will do this but it does and has happened. I've been on these forums for a long time and worked on loads of banshees, many with 2-1 setups. Not all had these issues but some did. Snop, i believe you said you had the EEK needle and this helped resolve a lot but when the 2-1s were being shipped with DEKs, the problem was more prevalent. That richer taper helps out there. I first presented this site with the EEK solution years ago and it caught on like fire and now most 2-1 setups on this site run an EEK needle, because it definitely helps. The Trinity kits seem to come with all sorts of needles, mostly DEK but I've seen 3 or 4 others for no apparent reason and the needle is a big big factor when trying to obtain proper jetting in the 2-1 setup.

hmmm, you got me then. they did have a few different variations as they "evolved" but i have no answer there. Mine had a little port in it, i could just barely get my pinky through it to the other side. as far as Gorr's port. I had him do a set of Banshee cylinders for me and it was an insane port job. i had good power from bottom to top and revved out really well, I was pleased with it. I was just hoping to see that he was back in business here in the states.

is your crossover tube installed properly? airleaks at the left cylinder maybe?

very stupid question but you eliminated the tors on the carb right? did you unplug ALL the white plugs to cancel out the electrical aspect of it? also, you have your crossover tube installed, right?

porting is extremely reasonable and a great mod for your stock bore. you can get a good healthy power gain from porting, much like you did with pipes. just be sure to use a reputable porter and be sure he knows what kind of power (low / mid / top) and how/where you ride so he can use that to get you a proper port job. nothing worse than expecting certain power gains and getting something different than you asked for, like asking for an agressive trail port and getting drag port that is a PITA to ride due to the narrow powerband. on the cut out thing, try and raise your needle a little more if you can. if your out of clips to raise it up, get a real small, thin washer and try that. i've had to do that before and works if need be.

pretty much what he said. and, not that anybody is saying i did, I never said they don't produce good power because they do, as many have proved. I just don't personally like the narrow powerband they seem to produce. IMO, the hit is hard, it's blah blah then Bam into the midrange / top end. I don't have a problem clutching and riding properly and if I rode strictly dunes, it'd probably be fine but I just like a little more smoothness and a little wider powerband. Many people have just succumbed to the idea Banshees have an on/off narrow powerband but that's not totally true, with a proper setup, you can have a machine with a smooth midrange and still have a killer top end. You also have to take my background which is mx and xc, not dunes and drag. I rarely make it to the dunes so I tend to opt for a machine that was equally at home here in xc trails of texas and in the dunes. There's nothing wrong with T5's so don't let my negativity ruin it for you. You may absolutely love them, as a good friend of mine does. He had PT mids and I tried to keep him away from T5's and couldn't. Now he has them and loves them. So, pipes are like tires which is like colors, everyone has they're favorites and opinions and that's what makes us individuals.... For the record, Paul Turner Hi Revs for midrange / topend pipes. They are super smooth with broad power. The topend is similar to the T5s but they come on sooner and smoother. I have no use for drag-specific pipes and to me the T5's are caught in the middle, not quite drag pipes but then not quite smooth enough for me to consider for a midrange top end pipe. John, you'll probably love the T5'S, especially if you haven't experimented with a lot of Banshee pipes. If your switching from stockers to the T5's, your bike will just come alove. I've just had about every kind short of the drag specific pipes. You'll find the PT Hi Revs are uncommon. The high price new and the fact that there aren't very many out there make for a pipe that very few are really familiar with. Hope that makes sense, doesn't run on and doesn't bore everyone. Its true that once I rode a 4 stroke at a xc race, I was hooked. So so much easier to race, so much less work and after an hour of racing, I was in much better condition to continue the add'l 30 minutes. I've now spent way more than I'd care to admit on the motor of my 450, got it in the upper 50s in hp and it's a super strong runner but for the same money, I could've built a 75hp stock bore banshee.

pull the trinity and look inside, you'll see an equalizer port. not sure on the cascade never seen one. and i said on the graydon, there are quite a few that run better when modded with an equalizer tube. Also, again I'll say if anyone has a link or picture of a cascade, I'd LOVE to see one, never seen one. no need to start a pissing match here, i'm not saying you all are wrong or right just bringing some things you all may have not thought about. as far as "letsgetthisdone", what manifold were you running, Trinity? there are some quirks of a single carb, mostly due to vacuum and not knowing a single thing about your bike and your problem, i can't really give you an answer but it probably had to do with a combination of vacuum differences between the cylinders and needle specs and who knows what....

all these replies and 2 pages worth and still no answer..... :biggrin: guess, I'm not really helping either. Sorry BigBoy! I don't exactly have a banshee in front of me to measure. If you wanna hurry up and donate a banshee to me, I'll take any of the measurements on it you want......

a white brothers at that. the white brothers boost bottles are the best out there.

here's my graydon, w/o the tube. the right side wanted to misfire. so I took it off, welded two small ports on it and then used a 3/8" tube for a crossover. it ran totally awesome after that. i liked it much better than the Trinity and with the PT Hi Revs (changed from the T5s not long after this pic) and killer portwork, it was an unbelievable runner. the airstryker Keihin models are very worthwhile on a single carb setup as well. the way the airstryker works helps out a lot with the low rpm vacuum issues and it does work. what a nice carb.

excellent carb except the throttle pull is a little stiffer. you'll want to pull the slides out and cut some coils off the slide spring.

check inside the trinity manifold, it's internal. it doesn't have to be a "tube", just a port or something to allow the two sides to equalize. the graydon doesn't have one and that can cause issues, when I fabbed one on my Graydon it ran awesome, better than the Trinity manifold. edit: i've never seen the cascade manifold, but I'd love to. i've actually never heard of it until recently, haven't been on the bhq boards for awhile. if anyone has a pic or link, I'd sure love one.

Man 1: Hey, that's a nice bike you have there, she run fast? Man 2: Yea, it's really quick once we finally got it jetted. Man 1: Jeez, was it hard to jet? Man 2: Yea, after we got those 35mm carbs on there. Man 1: Dang, I need to get some 35mm's, maybe some 39mm's. If 35's are good, the 39's must be really good. Man 2: Yea, those are some big carbs. Man 1: By the way, what size is that motor? Man 2: Oh, it's just a plain stock motor with some FMFs and Vforce reeds. Man 1: Uuuuuhhh.. cool.

because with the carb'ed motor, its easier to control the fuel and keep the mixture right with an auxiliary pump to inject the fuel with the NOS, otherwise, you'd be running rich as hell until you turn the NOS on or you'd lean it out and fry it with NOS if you were jetted properly before you kicked the NOS on. With the wet kit, you have a simple fuel jet that mixes the fuel and NOS together so it's a nice even mixture that works well. And then, if your getting too much or not enough fuel when the NOS is kicked on, there's a seperate fuel nozzle/jet that you can adjust to fine to the mixture, and it's all controlled by a simple activation switch.

first and foremost, pipes. Pipes are the single biggest bang for the buck on a 2 stroke, especially a Banshee. If your on a budget, check the for sale section or ebay for a set nice but used pipes and save a little. Then pull the lid off the airbox and rejet. When buying parts and stuff, think about what you want out of the bike and where you'd like it to be. If your just looking for a nice quick bike, fine but if your wanting A LOT more out of it down the road, try and buy parts that'll help you get it there so your not rebuying parts later. For pipes, look for a good deal on FMF Fatties or Pro Circuits, those can be had for a nice deal. Toomeys are also a popular one, not my choice but they can be found pretty good to. You could do reeds as well, but I'd save up for the VForce reeds or find a used set. That's where you'll end up so no need buying another inferior set only to buy the Vforce later, and they're a couple bills. If you find the pipes right, you could get a set of Vforce reeds and pipes and be sitting good. After you have reeds and pipes, the next step would be porting and that'll yield really good gains as well, second only to pipes.

I usually have a little different philosophy on this than others in this group, probably more so because I'm not a dragger. While I do believe a bigger than stock carb is helpful in a lot of applications, I personally think it's often overdone. In a stock bike with pipes, stockers work well actually and bigger is unnecessary. In a ported 350 to 370 cc application, I don't see the need for any bigger than 28s or 30s. True, if you were to step up from 30s to 35s, you might see a 4 or 5 horse difference but usually at the expense of torque or low end power. There's a certain trade off where upper hp, narrowing the powerband will result in negative overall effects. A smooth, more linear powerband is more important to me than that extra handful of ponies. Perfect example of this is how a torquey 52hp 4 stroke can hang with a 60 hp narrow powerband Banshee. The peak hp number is not aways the very most important factor in motor modifications, that is, unless your strictly a 300' straight line dragger who has one ultimate goal, a 7.5 second shot of power. Time and time again on these boards, years worth, I've seen people set their quads up with a dune/drag port, throw a set of CPIs on and mount some 35mm's and then a few months later complain that they have no lowend or it comes out of the hole bad. I've also been a big promotor of the 2-1 carb setup and ran it against some potent quads with dual 33s and drag pipes or Toomeys and hung right in with them. It's all in the setup. Along with that theory, I think that drag pipes are often overused, as it sounds good to say, "yea, I have some CPI drag pipes" but often times something a little more broad would be more fun and easier to ride without a lot of power loss, it's just that the people haven't given it the chance. I've had quite a few different setups, however never a full drag setup but I've had stock 350cc ported motors that have ran with some pretty tough competition and all without drag pipes, drag carbs and nasty porting. It's more of an overall package, synergy you can call it. There's an art or special touch to building motors, it's usually not a buy this and buy that and throw all this together. Its more of a goal in mind, then do one step, do some testing, see what works best, a lot of buying, testing and selling to get where your goal ends up. I haven't read the Toomey stuff, I'm not familiar with their motor theories, I'm just speaking from my personal experience and for the record, I'm not a fan of Toomey pipes at all and I dislike the T5s, even though they're considered gold by many. EDIT: and for the record part 2, I know what cubs are.... :biggrin:

Only way it's possible is if you don't have proper synchronization between the cylinders, like if the crossover tube is left off. the crossover tube is pretty important on the 2-1 carb setup and if your not getting equal balance there, one cylinder can draw more than the other if its not balanced and then produce a "hotter" side. in an extreme case of this, one cylinder would be firing fine and the other misfiring, resulting in a super hot side and an ice cold side. i've seen it myself so it can happen but a "properly" setup motor/carb deal should not experience this, if they do there's a problem.