sredish

"I have? When? I don't remember that?" That is exactly what I said this morning when my wife opened up the bank statement this morning, it's up to date to the 10th. I was like: and ran out the door. I really need to start saving. I've also got a front set of Maxxis Front Pros on Red Labels coming tomorrow. I'm planning on a 420 kit this spring or summer, if I can stop long enough to start saving a little, just gonna wait until I need the new top end. Going to Vegas a week from Thursday , and I know that'll hurt the ol' bank account.

Back to the roostin room for you...

No, you putting race fuel in the tank would through! God damb I'm being such a smart ass right now. Maybe I better head back to the roosting room. Ans: Yeah, I'd say with +4 go to 1/2 race 1/2 pump to be safe, but I know I've heard a lot of people running 93 pump with 155psi and +4, too close for comfort for me though. Yeah, probably too close for me also with the advanced ignition.

There were some on Ebay, but I've got to have this by Thursday. I just ordered a Cascade flame 3 piece cover from Rocky Mountain for a cool $300 shipped to my door by Thursday. I could have done so much with that money. That was a good down payment on some a arms or towards my 420 kit. Oh well, it's done now. Thanks again.

For that kind of riding, you'll have a much more enjoyable time with some FMF Fatties or Paul Turner mids. Stay away from the top end pipes like Toomeys or their copycats Pro Circuit. The Fatties are a great choice and inexpensive compared to some. They have good midrange throught the top, great for trail riding.

I wanna see that. Congrats to your brother. I'm sure he worked hard to get it.

Even though your in the dunes, the decision is still dependant on how you ride in the dunes. Do you ride "wide-the-freak-open" 100% of the time, or do you cruise around in 2nd and 3rd half the time? If you are a wide open kinda guy then the Toomeys will do you good in the sand, but if cruise just as much as you go fullbore, then the Fatties are going to be less of a workout and more enjoyable and will still give you great pull through the top. Just my opinion.

Ooops, I didn't see he had the dyna ignition. I understand that for that type of ignition. Ummm, later.

I knew they were pricey but 3 bills aint gonna work! Hmmm, I'll check around. Thanks for the leads.

I asked about trimming cover for ease of getting to countersprocket. In this thread. I did the trimming and now I'm concerned with my 2 year olds shoelaces getting in there or my baggier pants catching, mainly my sons shoes and all. His legs and feet are really close and will only get worse as he gets a little older. Who makes these covers with the removeable section and where can I find one? Doesn't need to be the shiniestt or fanciest, something anodized would be just fine. Thanks

yep, no more and no less.

Your pipes will normally get way too hot to touch, I've burnt myself several times with shorts on. That is normal, doesn't mean anything is wrong, actualy if they weren't scalding hot, there would be something wrong. As far as the way to get the "hit" out of the powerband, the best way I could figure is to get some different pipes, that's kind of the way they produce the power. They claim tha Pro Circuits are an all around, but they hit hard and high. Another way is to get a 2 into 1 carb kit, that will help bring the power down, but will fight against the pipes a little, a new set of Fatties would be cheaper than the carb kit and will be stronger due to the power the pipe is making where you want the power to be. With your present setup, raise your needle a clip and put in a 30 pilot and that will help the mid a little more. Read this: Over Heating, just wondering

I'm looking at Banshee76719s post, I didn't read it before, and he is apparently very happy with the 33 and I'm sure that works great also. He has some good porting and other mods, so it probably will go either way, your choice. B76719, I wasn't trying to put the 33 down, I just was trying to give an insight to look ahead for future mods, although the 33 apparently handles mods good as well. When I do my top end this year, I think I'm going to a Trinity 420 kit, and was thinking of stepping up to a single 39mm, but maybe the 35 will be enough, especially if your happy with the 33 and your mods.

yeah, and the predator is a screamer. that alone tells you how fast that yellow pig is. yep, a dumb ass!

good to hear. lite em up! :flame:

it's done. kinda looks unfinished but oh well, it'll grow on me. crossman makes a damn nice saver. thanks guys.

Has anyone considered cutting out the stator cover around the sprocket area for ease of sprocket changes and cleaning? I'm not worried about getting my feet or anything into it? I'm installing the case saver right now and just thought of asking that. I have having to undo part of the pegs and the shifter and cover just to get to the front sprocket, and it looks like someone died in there becuase of the dirt, hard to get to for cleaning. Later.

The 33mm and the 35mm are about the same on a stock motor, add pipes and reeds and I believe the 35mm has a slight edge due to the extra air. Add some light porting and other mods, then the 35mm is much better suited. I recommend buying the 35mm if you are buying a new kit due to the ability to go farther with mods. The 33mm can be limited when adding mods.

Damn, I'm getting anxious.

Your friends are just saying that so you don't kick their ass when you ride. That is by far the most "out there" thing I've heard. If they blow up motors, thats not your fault, nor will it blow the motor if you "ride wrong". Just make sure you use the right premix ratio and change the oil regurlarly, as well as the clean the air filter, and you'll be set. How reliable are Banshees? (Good Article) What kind of upkeep/maintenance?

Sounds a little lean to me. Try 300 with a 27.5 pilot and the needle in the 4th clip from the top. As always, a plug check is really the only way to tell. Put in the jets I mentioned and then check the plugs, that will give you a good starting point.

Weren't you just having a problem with the shee, and you thought you might have to use the EX. Now the EX is screwed up and the shee is running. Sweet, I can almost smell the sand...

I am a big fan of the single carb setup. First off, don't waste the money on a 33mm. You'll regret it. The 35mm runs just as good on a stock motor, but allows you more flexibility with mods in the future, and will perform better with mods than the smaller. I'm also a fan because I can dial in the carb in a matter of minutes, no syncing carbs, no worrying about one cylinder being leaner than the other due to the carbs, much less mess in the engine area, much easier to clean, arm ripping midrange, I could go on. Despite what some say, you'll have good top end with the single 35mm, much more than a stock shee along with the enormous midrange. Some say you don't have as much top end, but they're comparing the single carb to a pair of 34s, not stock, and a pair of 34s are like a wounded duck for low/mid end. Just remember some bikes are setup for drag, some mx/woods, some trail. You have to take what people say and interpret it for your own style. While one person that drags might hate it, the next person on the mx track loves it. To each is his own. Here's some more reading, Trinity Cv Kit, Weighing What You Guys Have Said, what should i do? Trinity Cv Single Carb System, does it work?

I would also recommend the reeds before you screw with the jetting too much. If you start messing with the jetting, and it turns out to be the reeds, you will have spent a lot of wasted time hunting and then you'll have to fix what you screwed up. As far as the needle, you should be on the 3rd at minimum and most likely the 4th with pipes, depending on your elevation. Once you get it running, I would change it to the 4th and see how you like it. If its too rich then back it off one. You might be happier with a tad richer pilot, like some 27.5s. Give that a go when you get it all buttoned up.