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sredish

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Everything posted by sredish

  1. yep, that's more or less it. I usually look for 3/4 to 1 inch in slack with my weight on the bike.
  2. Sand in the slides have always worked well for me.
  3. decided to go for it huh? hope it works out for ya. what all are you getting done?
  4. damn, do you guys understand that money does come to an end??? Everytime I get on here, I want to spend more. Those rockets sound nice, and I'll have to start some saving for them. Thanks bignasty!!
  5. It's all in those two sentences. Bigger pilot and fatter needle position, and poof, you'll have bottom end. Good luck.
  6. Here's the first place I could think of for cams and such. I'm sure there's more, but that what first came to mind. I'll get some more for ya. Mancini Racing No big win, though I did make $100 overall. Couldn't quite get myself in the high limit room. It was a lot of fun though.
  7. nice pics reas. Indubitably, I'll find some stuff for ya, they're around. sweet evil. what kind of "parts" are you talking about??? Maybe a set of axles would be nice, some Dyna Pro 60s. Yeah Demon, come on and bring some beer.
  8. What a stupid bastard. Thanks for the warning.
  9. Whatsup all. Just bought a new Wrangler YJ to add to my toy list. Aaaah, a nice new untouched Jeep, just ready to be torn apart. It has 45,000 original miles and has been covered AND garaged for it's entire life, other than putt putting into town now and then. It's red with a grey soft top. I already have a 4" lift and 33" Mickey Thompsons on the way and will begin the teardown shortly. I'll get some pics for you guys. Later.
  10. yeppers, 5 maybe 10 degrees, no more. No rejetting necessary.
  11. Not really. Just make sure you mix with the recommended ratio of the oil company, and stay with that oil. There are lots of opinions, but it seems that most oils work pretty good. I'd also say to use a reputable motorcycle oil designed for racing 2 strokes and not the cheap stuff from wal-mart. Most oils that a motorcycle shop carry should work well, and you can get the same oils cheaper at some other retailers, like Magic Racing or Rocky Mountain ATV.
  12. I'd go to a 52 on the pilot (seeing that you have no airbox lid) and see how that works. You might have to back off a little, but I'd bet that 50 is pretty damn close. Also bump your needle to the 4th clip from the top/blunt end, that will help your midrange considerably. This will help you see what jets/needles help what throttle area.
  13. that's good BrokeStonedBiker, I don't think stoned in 6th gear is a good idea.
  14. if i'm not mistaken, stock cannondales had ohlins. better check that out.
  15. When are you going?
  16. that is exactly what I was thinking, but then though that maybe the PJ pilots are a little different, so I kept my mouth shut on that. I run a 52 in my 35mm PWK with pipes and all.
  17. just checking with you here, but AWAY from the blunt end is how you should be moving it, not towards the blunt end. The closer you move the clip to the sharp end is richer. You should be putting it in the 4th clip AWAY from the blunt end, or as Banchetta recommends, trying the 5th clip AWAY from the blunt end. Sorry if that's what your doing, but what you said sounds fishy.
  18. Sup guys. My machine is running pretty damn good and haven't had any trouble. However, I'm bored. Haven't had to work on shit lately, doing the washing it every day for the me time with the banshee. I want to experiment with some needle tapers. See if I can push the threshold of air/fuel mixture. I'm on the 4th clip, and haven't tried the 5th. I'll do that and see how she does. What i was thinking, was a steeper taper to bring the fuel on a little quicker or something. I'm not too familiar with how to id the tapers and diameters. I know they use a letter system to identify the different parts, but I was hoping someone could help me learn to identify the digits as to the taper and stuff so I can go about with changing the different parameters. I know carbparts.com has diagrams and I'll check some of them out. You know, I could always buy more crap to put on, now that's not a bad idea. Later, Scott
  19. from 1/4 to 1/2 throttle is mostly needle. with the added airflow, you could probably benefit from moving the needles one clip richer, down away from the blunt end. That will get you a little more fuel in the midrange. After that, see how it runs. Then do a wide open throttle plug test like Banchetta said, that will tell you how the main is running. Good luck and get back to us.
  20. I agree that you need to FEEL the pilot. When the pilot is dialed in right, you'll have great response. Same with the needle. When the needle is dialed in right, the machine feels better, you can feel when it's not coming in correctly. Trial and error is the very key to jetting. Glad to hear that you got your problem solved. Always feels good to go through the machine, do what you need to do and it comes out running like a badass. Congrats.
  21. i like the old DG style. Nice and simple.
  22. Check your axle carrier bearings also. If they're going out, your axle will move around a little and cause your chain to stretch and break. Lift the rear and try to move the axle up and down, back and forth. Any movement means new bearings.
  23. I only buy the cheapest steel sprockets, like $14 for fronts and $17 for rears from RockymountainATV.com or MagicRacing.com, they work good and don't break you. As far as chains, it's really preference. Typically, any decent oring chain with a breaking point of around 7,000 lbs or more will be good. I've been using a Renthal R3 oring for over a year, and the DIDs are good. Some people like this and some like that. Just find an oring that has a high tensile strength and fits your budget and you'll be fine. The gold outer links are pretty too.
  24. 76179, when are we busting the dunes up brotha??
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