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sredish

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Everything posted by sredish

  1. They install real easy and look a hundred times better on the bars.
  2. The bearings came already installed I take it. I have a rather large diameter punch that I slide in that tube and I can usually work it around if need be. Maybe the handle end of a screwdriver can get in there to apply enough pressure to "unwedge" it. Don't know, just a thought.
  3. if it's 4 years old, and it's been ridden enough, the top end could be worn plenty. do check the compression and let us know where it's at. how do the plugs look, if it's running lean ,sometimes it will seem to run good, but not have as much power as it should.
  4. Didn't realize the pro circuits had that much low end droan.
  5. Definitely sounds like a needle issue to me as well. Just for an FYI, I run my needle in the 4th clip from the top/blunt end with my below mods. I would imagine that the 2nd clip would be lean. Also, I'm at a 52 pilot, teh 35 sounds lean to me as well. My motor likes it a little richer than most others but raise the needle to the 4th and see how goes and when you get the needle set, raise your pilot till it bogs and back it off a size or so. Scott
  6. Shouldn't have to change anything. Your not changing the airflow or anything else that would affect the air/fuel mixture. Your just affecting how and when it sparks. Just check your plugs after the install to verify whether or not a change is actually needed. I did go up on the main when I switched to a hotter sparking plug, so just check the plugs, these bikes all run a little different.
  7. Yep, adjust the needle. With the port, you could probably be on the 5th clip from the top/blunt end. Normally, I suggust the 4th clip with just pipes. That will help the mid. You have it backwards. Bigger front = higher gearing / more top speed Smaller front = lower gearing / less top speed Opposite for the back. Stock is 14/41 in the newer models, and I'm running a 15/41, so it's geared up. I ran 15/42 in the dunes and it worked well.
  8. CarbParts.com call em and tell em what you want.
  9. Seriously, I'm anxious to see how it works out. Too bad there's not a dyno available to see if there is some hp gains that your arse won't feel. And I'm not trying to put it down, if there's that much hype, then it's probably for a reason. Good luck, and get back after the testing. Scott
  10. you better hope it's not firing on all cylinders..
  11. Yes, i recommend removing them actually. You have to disconncect it from the lever perch AND from the plug down beside the radiator, just follow it down and unplug. I've seen a lot of bikes have problems cause they were still connected. They run in conjunction with the TORS crap. Scott
  12. I use the NGK Iridium plug (BR8EIX). It has a really hot spark. The spark won't be any faster, it will spark at the same exact moment that a standard plug would spark. Try it out and get back, we'll see how it goes, although I'm fairly pesimistic about it. Later.
  13. Absolutely, if you went one clip richer and it got worse, then try one the other way. Go to the 2nd clip and see how goes. It doesn't hurt anything to try, and if it runs good then that's great. Leave your air screw 1.5 to 2 turns out for now. I'd leave your pilot alone for now, especially if it's starting good and your problem is more in the 1/8 - 1/2 throttle, that is needle territory. Good luck and check back. Scott
  14. Sounds electrical. The parking brake could also cause it if the wiring is still installed. Make sure the wires are disconnected from the lever AND from the plug down by the radiator. Even more, be sure all the TORS crap is yanked.
  15. If your running w/o an airbox lid, you could be up to 310 pretty easy, unless your at a higher elevation. Once you get 'er close, it won't hurt to try the 4th clip on the needle either. Some really like it.
  16. Call here carb parts wharehouse 216-635-1099 they will have the jets that you need, carbparts.com Yep, I have all the way up to a 230 thanks to them, and Blue for the recommendation. Currently, I'm at 220.
  17. This is what I wrote in the other topic regarding "Side Gapping": "But that's acting like the fuel mixture is underneath the spark, when it's actually surrounding the entire sparking area and plug, so I don't see that it would benefit that much. Also, by covering the electrode with the arm, you have more sparking area, by "side gapping", your limiting the amount of area to allow for spark. Nice theory, I just don't agree. With my plugs, couldn't do it anyway."
  18. Yep, I was at 52, well still am, but need to back off some. Oh, put your needle in the 4th clip from the top/blunt end, that should help the area of your hesitation. How is it starting, how many kicks?
  19. Can't help you much with the Mikuni. Sorry.
  20. But that's acting like the fuel mixture is underneath the spark, when it's actually surrounding the entire sparking area and plug, so I don't see that it would benefit that much. Also, by covering the electrode with the arm, you have more sparking area, by "side gapping", your limiting the amount of area to allow for spark. Nice theory, I just don't agree. With my plugs, couldn't do it anyway.
  21. From BenBB's site Banshee Gearing Calc
  22. 32:1 is the richest I'd go. More like 40:1 or 50:1 depending on the oil.
  23. I've been playing with that idea in my head for a year or so. I want so bad to have a set of street tires and go cruising around town. I just can't figure out how to get it licensed.
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