sredish

Try this Duncan Racing PTRs link.

I disagree with this statement, especially when considering the 35mm carb. It runs well off of a port job. I wouldn't necessarily recommend running the biggest of all port jobs, but a good mx port and a hair more would easily be handled by the mighty 35mm, in fact I think it would be a great setup. You'll gain top end over the stockers with the single carb, you might not have quite as much as a pair of dual 30s, but you'll have loads more midrange power where the duals have zero.

i'd be running straight with the 15cc domes, no 50/50 shit.

yeah, more like 8 bills with the rezzies

no, i have stock arms. so I'm in a similar predicament. When I got the shocks, i didn't want extended arms, so I figured when I get new arms, I'll get stock length. After getting the extended axle, the handling is night and day better so now I'm thinking I want extended arms also, but I'll need to revalve my Elkas. So, I'll probably wait to break an arm for I do anything, a-arm that is. The ride is awesome. Just cruising it's better, but you open it up and get agressive and they're right they're with you. They turn the whoops from a "holy cluster f*%k" into "damn that thing handles great". They are valved for MX/XC and they are right on. If you land off center some, you can hardly notice, they soak it all right up. Two words sum up Elka's shocks : Freaking Awesome.

I'll second those. I have some 33's on a work truck and they are extremely quiet and ride like a damn all terrain. I didn't think of them before, becuase you don't even consider them being mt's becuase of how quiet they are, and they do great off road. Just kinda pricey. Nice body mods, when are you hittin' the baja??

To self: what a bunch of smart asses in this joint.

I'm a big fan of the Interco TrXus mud for the on/off highway vehicles. Has enough agressiveness to get where you need to go, but still tight enough for a really good highway ride and not very much noise.

Like Led said, get the shocks, and run the stock arms temporarily until you can afford the new ones. If you get shocks first, they'll either be super hard due to being valved for the future puchase of extended arms, or if you get shocks for standard arms, they won't be valved right for extended arms.

True to a point. Running in 6th gear as compared to, say, 3rd gear will work your motor a lot harder because of the gearing, and it will pull every ounce of air and fuel through and this would be like a "worst case scenario" condition. Technically, if you were just about right jetting in 3rd, it's still possible to have a mild lean condition in 6th, because of the extra work the motor is doing. If you run your plug chop in 6th, then you have no worries. I'm not saying that it's wrong to check plugs in a different gear, everybody does something different, but technically the above it true. I try to run my WOT test in 6th, but 5th is just fine for me too. My bud believes only in 3rd, so everybody like their potatoes differently.

Boring out carbs is basically making them bigger. If you take the stock 26mm and bore them to 28mm, then you basically have 28mm carbs. The object of opening or boring, or getting new bigger carbs, is to allow more air into the motor. More air equals more fuel equals more power. You add air, then you need to add fuel to keep the air/fuel the same and that extra air/fuel adds extra power. BINGO!! If you have a stroker kit or some heavy porting, the need for more air is imperative and that's where bigger carbs are a necessity. Small carbs can only flow so much air, and that can hold you back with extensive motor work. Although, I wouldn't do shit to the stock carbs except throw them in the fire pit and watch them burn!

Damn your old. Don't know if I can ride with someone that old. jk I'm only short by 5 years, but I'm still under the big 3 0.

Do you have to apologize for not know something and asking a question? Do I even have to explain what I'm talking about? Only exception is boonman's sorry for not getting back to people, that was legit, but don't f*&king be sorry for a jetting question, or something about your "new banshee". That's it.

I would imagine it would be the load going to the amp. Mixing and matching spkrs is cool as long as the speakers have the same resistance and you end up with the proper load for the amp.

I can't believe this f**king post has lasted this long.

Hmmm, I might just try to make it out that weekend too. Sounds good.

Get some Engine Ice at your local dealer or from RockymountainATV.com and replace all your coolant with it. Your banshee will run 50 degrees cooler, give or take a few degrees. That along with an impeller will help out quite a bit. Don't get Watter Wetter, it doesn't work near as good.

Most importantlyl, banshees all run different, and sometimes quite a bit. On my banshee, with the below mods (including Fatties) and stock carbs, I was at 310 main, 27.5 pilot and 4th clip, where most others are around 290 or 280 with stock pilots. Now with my single carb, I run a 220 main, 52 pilot and 5th clip on the needle. Most with this setup run a 185 main 48 or 45 pilot, and 3rd or 4th clip. I don't know why, don't have any internal motor work done, but my banshee likes it a lot richer than most others. It also seems to run harder, I'd imagine due to the extra fuel I can give it. They are all different, that's why when we give jetting advice, it's all an average guess and everything is a little different. What you should do is run it and check your plugs. Your plugs will tell you if you can go richer. If you put in a 310 and its black and oily and wet after a WOT run, then chances are your not gonna make it to 340 and will probably be better with a 290. Just run it, check your plugs and try it. If you try it and it fouls a plug, then you know you need to back it off. Jetting is 100% trial and error. You have to try it to know if it will work, if it doesn't then you know what will work. If you can get bigger mains on there, then you will have a little more power. With every mod like pipes, carbs, the additional amout of fuel after rejetting is always a big part of more power. Good luck.

sounds like jetting. when your in the open your using 3/4 to WOT and when you get in the tighter stuff you use 1/4 to 3/4 throttle, which is a different circuit. If your fouling plugs in that circuit, you might lean the needle by moving one clip up towards the top/blunt end. Also get some Engine Ice if you don't already have it. It will reduce your temps 40 or 50 degrees. If you get in there, let us know what your settings, jet sizes and mods are and we can compare to others.

make sure not to put them back on too tight. the wheel studs can have a tendency to spin if you torque the nuts down too tight.

not generally

35mm is not going to be too big. Look at my mods below and I run the 35 and it screeeaaaammmms. Wouldn't trade it for nothing. Then when you decide to port, compress and stroke, your one step ahead. And honestly, the compression isn't going to make much difference, it doesn't affect your air/fuel mixture, so you'll still be using the same amt. of fuel either way.

I read the strap and the tip of the insulator. Personally, I want the insulator a light/med. brown color, and the strap black. If the insulator gets much darker or if the strap and electrode start getting wet, I'll back off. I do look at the color on the outside ring also. But it depends on the situation to look at what area. If your concerned with the timing then inspect the insulator a little closer. It's all about knowing how to read the plug and where to look for what.

I didn't. Do now.

WoooooooooooooooooooooooHoooooooooooooooooooooo!!!!