sredish

not familiar with the trinity gaskets. 877-FASTOYS should get you the answer.

Have a Holly Jolly Glamis Halloween! :thumbsup:

and I forgot that on my 4 stroke, I'm supposed to compensate for the add'l stroke so I'm supposed to multiply 54.983475 by .021 and add it back into it which gives me 56.138127975*

Yep, jetting is hard as hell when you don't understand it but really super easy when you do. I guess that's with everything, brain surgery is easy when you know how to do it.... :biggrin:

I usually shoot for a 54.983475* hatch but the tolerances for me are usually within +/- 0.023475848487832.

sounds like you guys got it figured out. yea, try the BR8s and see if that clears it up.

for the record, you can have your head milled for like $30 or $40. You can port your cylinders and then mill the head and accomplish most of what you would with a new head. Then, save up and go for a billet head when your ready. edit: just saw the previous reply.... :happy:

that's a big question only you can really answer. are you a full-time drag racer or do you like to play drags and then play in the trails/dirt some? if you say "no" to being a full-time drag racer, than there is no question, you'll be better off with a dune port. Sure, it sounds cool saying, "I have a full drag race port" but don't let ego get in the way, it's all about having a fun bike that does what you want and suits you best. I'd hate to hear in a month that your trying to figure out why you have no lowend/midrange and how to get more lowend/midrange Above all, as was said, this needs to be discussed with Jeff.

The weight number of 508 is CURB weight. It seems Honda has changed how they are spec'ing these machines. Instead of DRY weight, everything now has a CURB weight, meaning every fluid (oil, tranny, coolant, fuel) is full. I like this. It was pretty common for DRY weights from the manufactures to be, ummm, optimistic. The Raptor 700 has a claimed DRY weight of 396, but in the real world with all fluids full they are around 440. So although this new Honda is portly, it's not as bad as it first appears. Specifications: Model: TRX700XX Engine Type: 686cc liquid-cooled SOHC dry-sump single-cylinder four-stroke Bore and Stroke: 102mm x 84mm Induction: Keihin PGM-FI with a 44mm throttle-body fuel injection system Ignition: CD with electronic advance Starter: Electric Clutch: Manual Transmission: manual five-speed with Reverse Driveline: O-ring-sealed #520 chain Suspension Front: Independent double-wishbone with dual single-rate springs provide 9.3 inches of travel. Rear: Independent double-wishbone with piggy-back reservoir shocks provide 10.6 inches of travel Brakes Front: Dual hydraulic 174 mm discs Rear: Single hydraulic 200mm disc Tires Front: 21 X 7R 10 Rear: 22 X 9R 11 Length: 73.9 inches Width: 46.3 inches Height: 45.4 inches Seat Height: 33 inches Ground Clearance: 10.5 inches Wheelbase: 50.0 inches Turning Radius: 8.5 feet Fuel Capacity: 3 gallons Colors: Metallic Black/Silver, Metallic Black / Red Curb Weight*: 508 pounds Some Comparisons off the mfg's websites. ...........................TRX450R................TRX700 Length..................72.6 inches.............73.9 inches Width....................46.3 inches............46.3 inches Height...................43.6 inches............45.4 inches Wheelbase.............49.2 inches............49.8 inches Seat Height............32.6 inches............33 inches Ground Clearance...4.2 inches.............9.9 inches Weight...................350 dry.................508 (curb) ...........................YFZ450R................ Raptor 700 Length..................72.4 inches.............72.6 inches Width....................46.1 inches............46.1 inches Height...................42.9 inches............44.5 inches Wheelbase.............50.4 inches............50.4 inches Seat Height............31.9 inches............32 inches Ground Clearance...4.5 inches.............4.4 inches Weight...................350 dry.................396 dry

yea, we've been discusssing the hell out of it over on the TRX site. one of those deals where we don't really know how it'll work until we get on one but the general consensus is that it's a tad too heavy, otherwise looks decent and good potential for stroking for those motorheads. based on my xc background, i can't help but think how nice an IRS would ride.

nope. you need lowering brackets or new shocks.

As was said, 32:1 or 40:1 is fine. Most decent oils will work in this range perfectly. I personally prefer 40:1 but nothing wrong with 32:1. 24:1 is too much, IMO.

:yelrotflmao: I'd almost draw up that contract with you, but I have two Hondas, can I send the other one down the road? This black one is just too much fun. But see, they're just sitting there. edit: and for the record, Joe at Rossier is da' man!

Paul, you got these over on the ORG? I'll have to check it out. Whats the tensile on those on those EXWs? I was just mentioning to my wife I wanna put new chains on mine and her quads. I'll catch ya over there. BTW, Woodward is a standup place and Paul is a standup guy. I can vouch.

Rox Speed Fx is the place to go. They have three kinds, block risers, anti-vibe risers and pivoting risers. Go to the left where it says "atv" then go to handlebar risers and choose the different ones to see them. http://www.roxspeedfx.com/cgi-bin/cart/sho...i?subcat_id=255

:yelrotflmao: yep, i'm sure they do. Front Lowering Kit Rear Lowering Kit

Sweet stuff there. That'd be trick, pull out the ol' handheld programmer on the bansh, do some adjustments and be off. Now, the only thing left for you to do is to sell me that "spare" RZ topend..... :shrug: Hate to just see it sit there.

that is a good price on that quad. i'd pick it up if I was more financially ready and you were closer.

Yea, never heard of those but that sounds like a killer setup. To be able to control the powervalves like that would be just killer.

yea, i've heard the Rockets work very very well on the RZ motors. 4 mil RZ motor should be stroooong and very very fun. I'm jealous to say the least. Get it all figured out so when I build mine I know who to ask. I'm really not familiar at all with the wiring of the RZ stuff and all, that'll be new to me.

send your spare RZ stuff to me.

Damn, a couple months too early. What year again did they switch to a-arms?

Stock bore/stroke, Gorr MX port, 2-1 Graydon 35mm Airstryker, PT Hi Revs, 7* advanced, 175psi through a Coolhead, lightened flywheel and a Dyna ignition box. Runs like a champ and raced XC with that exact for awhile. First raced xc with the PT mids but didn't like the lack of top end rev, so switched to the PT Hi's. Usually run between a 15/38 and a 15/41 depending on conditions, xc course, etc. In the dunes, I'd throw the 41 on. I've tried a bunch of other pipes but the PT Hi's are my faves. Not really that much, engine-wise. Haven't been on in awhile and it seems to be more populated with 5 mils, 10 mils, cheetahs and just higher higher hp drag machines. I'm not that kinda person, I like a good well-built stock bore machine and followed suit with my 450r until recently punching it to a 480. Wouldn't mind playing with a 4 mil setup but I really want to build an RZ motor.

my 450r doesn't have a battery. :happy: Anyways, a good, properly jetted banshee doesn't need a fan. If temps are an issue, check jetting, check the waterpump (get a billet one) and if they're really an issue, get a PWR radiator, twice the cooling and a lot easier than a fan.