sredish

i'm sure you two have more experience with the Toomeys than I do, my experience tends to fall short with the Toomeys, CPIs, Rockets and all those "fancy ass" pipes.

I attached the carb to the airbox, plate and all and put the boot on the intake and slid the whole carb/airbox deal on and bolted into place. It's kind of a bitch, but that worked for me.

... and the vforce already have them built in, so they are not needed at all in your case.

they want a pipe that performs better to the average joe, which the t6 does, but some pipes, based on how the sonic area is designed perform better than others with mods, i.e. porting, strokeing etc, as does the t5.

650 miles on a tank, right here... thanks to my wicked 6.0 PStroke.

What a bunch of freaks, I thought I was bad 'cause I like to tie girls up with my tether now, the vroom vroom sounds, i'll have to try that one out.

Honestly, I think they're all a PITA to get on and off, my DGs don't fit perfect, but once they're on they're fine. I got a new stator cover so I don't have to pull it every time I have a sprocket change or need to get to the flywheel.

Heard that, this Keihen is a piece of cake to rejet. If you get some allen bolts for the bottom of the float bowl like I did, you don't even need to twist the carb to the side to get in there, plus you won't wear out the phillips bolts.

Didn't notice this comment before. The color you describe depends on where it is to correctly determine the condition. You want the ground strap to be black, and the outer most ring on the very tip to be black, not wet and the very tip of the porcelain should be a light chocolate or brown color. If the strap is tan then your lean. Typically, if the strap IS black then the porcelain tip WILL BE the dark tan color, they kinda go hand in hand unless something else is going on that we don't need to get into.

The needle clip position affects a WOT plug check? Well, not directly but.... One clip on the needle is equal to about one/half of a main size. So if you get the main dialed in perfectly and then move the needle two clips richer, then your also putting more fuel to equal going up one size in the main, which could affect your WOT jetting. What you could do is allow for this and don't get your main too rich and then adjust your needle afterwards if need be. Just something to keep in mind. But I do believe your machine will run better with the needle in the 4th clip from the top. For instance, mine is in the 5th, and I don't have any internal mod, and the single carb setup is key to have the needle dialed in for the midrange you bought the kit for.

makes sense, and worth a try. One thing though, your pilot isn't going to affect anything above 1/4 to 3/8 throttle, so that's not an answer for your above question.

Before you go changing your mains and all, just run it with the 50-1 mixture and see how it runs, if you don't notice it running bad or missing at all, leave it alone. I honestly don't imagine you'll need to change your jetting at all, so just leave it alone and run the new oil. If after a few rides, it doesn't seem all there, you might need to adjust. But going down on your mains does not make any sense. The reason I say this is your new fuel mixture will be leaner, so why would you then jet leaner. The difference in oil your using is so minor in the whole scheme of things that it shouldn't really be affected. If you are really concerned, a plug check will tell all. Period.

Agreed, and for that matter, I'd stick with the T5s, even if your not planning serious work, you never know where it will lead you. The T5s are great pipes.

Don't know that it will make that much difference, but for shits and giggles, mine are set for low response and seems to work good.

You can remove the wheel by the hub, large nut/cotter pin, or the 4 little bolts. When I'm changing my gearing around, I remove the whole hub/tire, replace the sprocket and then replace the hub/tire. Both ways will work just fine. Remove both wheels and spin the axle and watch to see if the axle moves up and down while spun or not. If the axle is bent, you'll see it when you spin it, if it spins true then it's not bent and you need another rim.

So, let's take Saturday and say that 35% were women. That means there were 2,394 titties.

Agreed. You'll most likely want the needle in the 4th clip from the top unless your at a pretty high elevation, so you might change that before you run the WOT for the main. I'd bet money that it's in the 3rd from the top/blunt end.

Glad you found out what the prob was. Hope it works out. Now Git 'er done!! Haha, watched some of that shit last night.

What about cleaning the carb? May have some issues with the carb not up to snuff. If need be, I'll meet you at LS and take it home with me get 'er fixed up and I'll meet you back at LS and hand her back over, well maybe. I'd love to get my hands on another LT250R. One of my fave machines.

If you don't have any suspension work, get some done. Get some shocks, whatever you can afford, a arms, wider axle. All these things are more or less bolt on hp, because it will let you ride your bike harder and faster, using more of the power your machine already has. Seriously, you don't have any idea as to what your missing. The Elkas were such an improvement, then the wider axle even better handling, can it get better?? I'll find out when I get my wider a arms. Scott

All that's funny as shit. I have a Husky with a 23 horse Briggs. The mower is, well, out of commission, but I've been thinking about tinkering with it, but I don't know squat about those thing on how to hop up. I'll have to check into it. Sweet, lawnmower racing.

Well, thanks for the explanation. It's hard to find good tech articles and I stumbled upon that and agree with the info pretty much. I'll keep that in mind from now on though. From reading your posts, I feel I read plugs very similar to you in that I read the strap and ring mostly, although I do look at the tip of the porcelain for some color also.

I know for sure that this wasn't the case. I was carefull about this and would cruise at a speed that was in the middle of the powerband, throttle up to 3/4 then go to wot then back to 3/4 throttle. The power would fall off at wot, then come back at 3/4 throttle. I did this several times because I extremely surprised that it acted that way. I am going to pick up some new plugs tomorrow and start over from square one with the stock pilot jet and lower clip position and a bunch of different mains. One good thing about the PT pipes is how easy it is to get to the carburetors. Thanks to all for the help. yes, start with new plugs, and run your machine wot and listen to what it tells you, via the plugs.

What do your plugs say at WOT, and what mains are you using? That could also be from a lean condition, being that the main doesn't give it enough fuel at WOT for the extra uuumph. Just a thought.

Word, NYUK has one for sell, send him a PM pronto if you don't want to miss out.